Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: Don Case on June 18, 2014, 07:27:36 pm
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Is it OK to roughly spine the bamboo before straightening? I don't see any point in wasting time straightening them if they are going to stay as garden stakes.
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I'm no expert but I wouldn't think it wouldn't hurt to kinda sort them out. That being said the spine could change a little when you straighten them depending on how much heat you have to use to get them straight. Also if you decid to heat treat them too. JMO Patrick.
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When you find out how to spine one that is not straightened, let me know?
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I always spine mine before straightening. I sort them by 30's, 40's, 50's and so on. After I straighten the shafts I'll check the spine again and sort them into smaller groups.
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I never spine cane except to find the stiff side that goes against the bow.
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When you find out how to spine one that is not straightened, let me know?
If you're referring to them twisting in the spine tester, I just hold them so they don't twist. After I've done a few dozen I imagine I'll be able to guess close enough just by flexing them. Right now I'm just trying to eliminate the real limp and real stiff ones. I don't see the point in straightening them.
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I never spine cane except to find the stiff side that goes against the bow.
Why would cane be exempt from spinning?
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Because of the natural taper and it's fast recovery, cane is more tolerant of bow weights, as much as 10# to 20#. When making hill cane arrows I usually cut them at 30"(for my 26" draw) with about 5/16" nock end and 3/8" point end. These arrows seem to fly well from 45# to 60#+ bows.
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Ive found that boo or cane can be spined by comparing each ends diameter. Grab one that is done and flys well, then match it up with your raw shafts. Ill bet they all fly good.
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What Pat and Pearly said. I just finished a set of tomato stakes that differ in weight by up to 10# and still shoot remarkably straight, fast and remarkably quiet from the same bow.