Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: JoJoDapyro on June 17, 2014, 08:55:12 am
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So as I have never used split wood for anything other than burning, do you split wood with Wood wedges, or metal one? I think wood doesn't cut through the grain, and allows you to "Follow" the grain? Thanks again for the years of blisters and F words to teach me in a faster, less abusive manner.
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I use all steel everything. It works just fine. If you don't have steel, use wood and make extras.
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Metal for me cus I split a lot of Osage 8)
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I use metal for the first splits but often use wood wedges when I am splitting off core splits for piggy back staves. The wedges I use are small wedge shaped cutoffs left over from when I cut splices on billets.
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Steel ones.
Pappy
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safety glasses, leather gloves, 2 steel wedges, a hatchet and a small hand sledge. I straddle the log. I start the split on the small end with the hatchet and then alternate all 3 up the log. Jawge
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Yep, more muscle of steel, lol...
I've split a few knarly ones over the last few months because there's not much to choose from around here. On one big log I had 4 steel wedges buried and had to sit and consider my options.. Was about ready to burn the whole dam thing but using up my last little iota of patience I was able to get one wedge loose and eventually get the log halved... No staves were hidden in this old twisted up monster, or none that this novice wanted to tackle but there were a handfull of billets... Man, is this fun or what? ;D
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Pat he is talking about wedges splitting the wood, not dry heat.....;)
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Umm, yeah, sometimes, "s----heat happens" !! LOL
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I made up a bunch of mini wedges I use for more precision splitting like belly splits or halving staves. They are about 4" long 1/2" wide and 1/8" thick cold roll steel. They work very well on osage.
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Badger, did you heat 'em and beat 'em to get the taper ?
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Pat, I just ground a single bevel about 1/2 long. Only 1/8" thick so no taper really needed.
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I use a screw driver for that same type of work Steve. I get the split started, then turn the screw driver sideways and hammer the shank down through for a clean break. Seems to work great when I need a belly split.
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I use a screw driver for that same type of work Steve. I get the split started, then turn the screw driver sideways and hammer the shank down through for a clean break. Seems to work great when I need a belly split.
Thats what gave me the idea for these little splitters. If I make a new set they will be 1/4" thick and have about 1" taper. As narrow as screwdrivers or small wedges are it is much easier to follow a radial grain.
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I kerf cut all my logs now and use mostly wood wedges with a small hand sledge and keep a machete or small hatchet handy. I also use a crowbar and pry bars
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Being a mechanic for 40+ years ,I use a screw driver for what it is made for,screws. ;) ;D ;D I also have made some thin wedges and use them for splitting. :) Sorry Pearl ;) but it really bugs me to see folks hammering on
screw drivers. :)
Pappy
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You ol' stickler pappy! I use junk, stripped out screwdrivers, not any of my good ones. Some don't even have handles anymore.
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Pappy, I spent 40 plus years twisting wrenches also and know exactly what you mean. I have one of those expensive german axes and everytime I hit the back of it with a metal hammer to start a split I get a big twang of guilt! Seems like everytime I need my dead blow hammer I can't find it.
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I cut a kirf with my chainsaw for the first split on all big logs.
Sometimes on a piggy back stave on stuff that really splits easily, I will start the split, put the blade of a mattock in the split crossways (stave back down, belly up) and use the handle as a pry bar to turn the blade like a giant fro. On that rare osage that splits with the grain cleanly I can pop off a belly split in a minute or so by advancing my mattock.
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I use dull metal ones. Never sharpen them. I split mostly black locust, vine maple, and ash, with a couple big elms in the mix.
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I have these. The fallers here pound them into the kerf to force leaning trees in the desired direction. They are made of nylon or some such. Don't damage your axe. Tough as nails. Light.
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Stihl makes some of those Don. Ive been tempted to try one, you sold me!
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I split a black locust for 4 hours yesterday, bottom log was 17" diam. I am feeling it today?
I have a really long heavy machete I use to get it started, to hopefully insure the first split halves it. Then two 6lb wedges, a sledge hammer, and a bathtub of elbow grease ;)
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I use an ax head with a 6" handle as a starter wedge. Then I use steel wedges the rest of the way. I have been using 3 wedges but on a big gnarly osage log I would often get all of them stuck. I found a good deal on some used ones and now I have 6. I have plans to make an elevated splitting station next to my shop.
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I use my scandi GB and and a hatchet plus wooden wedges. I have used metal wedges but you need to use a suitable whacking implement, never hit something like an axe on an axe, hammer on axe. If "tempers" are close you risk metal shrapnel flying off and injuring you. Always much safer with metal on wood. Wedges take minutes to make with an axe.
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Like Clint I use a short 6" wide axe head to start my splits and then metal wedges and sharp hatchet for the rest and stringers. Got smart and quit working on the ground and use large unsplit firewood to elevate the log. Ready for a long hydraulic wood splitter next ;D
Tracy
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The reason I asked is there is a Documentary on Netflix called Happy People, about Siberian trappers. One of the men makes a pair of Ski's and used wood from the tree he cuts down to make wedges to slit it, and not tear the grain. I have never split anything I wanted to use for anything but fuel, so I have only used metal wedges. At work we do use the "Plastic" wedges when we get a saw stuck. They are very tough.
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What is everyones thought on using a band say to cut staves? Is is more preferable to split them by hand? Just curious.
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Depending on the log,if it is straight grain like a lot of Hickory/Elm/Hackberry and several others I sometimes use a band saw,depending on my mood and how big the log is to start. If it has any character/knots/wavy grain or twist I always split. ;) :) :) I love the band saw when I can use it,saves a ton of time and you can come up with more bang for you buck. :)
Pappy
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I made me a copuple of dogwood wedges cause I hate the sound of metal banging on metal. They work just great on every wood I tried so far. I usually get an initial gap with an axe hit and then jam in the wedge.
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I split these hickory staves out after kirfing the quarters with a skill saw. I popped a chalk line on them first to have guide to follow with my saw, very straight grained stuff.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/sawing%20wood/finishedhickorystaves.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/sawing%20wood/finishedhickorystaves.jpg.html)
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LOL, Pappy. I with you on that one. I try to use a tool for its intended purpose.
No one asked but here goes anyway. Guess I'm a glutton for punishment. :)
I grew up the oldest son of a carpenter. I've been on the wrong end of many a fearsome kick back while using a circular saw. I only use circular saws on dimensional lumber.
I've had some kickbacks using chain saws, too, so I won't use one for kerfing either.
I used to kerf using a hatchet but don't do that anymore either. When I layout a bow I follow that lateral grain up the stave and that's where the wood split anyway.
Jawge
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I wouldn't use a circular saw to cut a log unless I had a way of holding the log. I have worked with lots of types of power tools over the years, and have yet to have an accident with one. But I chalk that up to not using tools for things other than what they are intended for (for the most part). I need a good work surface to split staves and to work on things. So far I have a chair and a c clamp. Or in the case of the Russian olive log, the ground.