Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: KS51 on June 15, 2014, 07:05:11 pm
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I went to my local lumeryard and managed to finally score a nice piece (I think) of Ipe. Normally, when I re-saw hickory, elm, or oak I would make the boards 1-1/2" wide. This will be my go with ipe and from what I can tell from searching, I would be better off ripping to 1-1/4 or less. Can some of you folks with more experience offer some advice.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd44/kmsnake/20140615_165249.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd44/kmsnake/20140615_165344.jpg)
I should mention, I usually make my bows between 45 and 60 lbs and I have a 29" draw. Also, I use bamboo backing and TB3 glue and generally reflex the limbs 1" - 2".
The board is 15/16 thick.
Thanks
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1 1/4" is fine for a 60# Ipe bow. One thing to remember though is that the larger a board is, the more likely it is to be unstable when cut up (ACCORDING TO MY CURRENT OPINION/ OUTLOOK). So if you go 1 1/2" wide, it will give you some leeway if the board warps for laying out your bow. Your board looks good to me, you can avoid that knot I'm sure. Ipe does make finer dust than woods like hickory when resawn, which is annoying. I run two hoses off my shop van to my bandsaw, one at the normal hook up, and one to catch all the dust that the bandsaw shoots out under the table for woods just like ipe. Some people get really bothered by the dust. I don't mind too much, and I have asthma. It reminds me of bitter unripe almonds for some reason, :). But be sure to wear breathing protection, some people the dust will even irritate their skin.
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I havnt had any warpage like tmk has, but if it worries you just cut one 1 1/4" pc and use it, you should get two boo backed bows from one pc
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I JUST finished tillering a Hill replica I glued up from a 38" ipe board end. It is hickory backed. 1" wide tapering to 3/8" tips, 3/4" handle width. The bow measures 69" ntn on the nutz with a 4" handle and 4" fades. I started with 1.5" of glued in reflex and ended with 1", not bad for a sliver. The bow pulls 61 @ 28 and after 50-60 shots is very healthy. So I guess Im saying it takes very little ipe to make a lotta bow. Imagine how thin it would be if you snipped 6" of length off? Its mean wood and goes a long ways.
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Thanks for the advice. Looking at the end grain, the growth rings run at about a 45, should I consider ripping at an angle so I get flat sawn lumber 1/2 x 1-1/4 ? Or just rip twice and get about the same thing? How thick are Ipe limbs at the fades typically?
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True ipe shouldn't have growth rings. It's a tropical wood that grows year round hence no froth rings. It does have grain. Is that what you are seeing? Yes it takes very little ipe for a gods bbi
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I JUST finished tillering a Hill replica I glued up from a 38" ipe board end. It is hickory backed. 1" wide tapering to 3/8" tips, 3/4" handle width. The bow measures 69" ntn on the nutz with a 4" handle and 4" fades. I started with 1.5" of glued in reflex and ended with 1", not bad for a sliver. The bow pulls 61 @ 28 and after 50-60 shots is very healthy. So I guess Im saying it takes very little ipe to make a lotta bow. Imagine how thin it would be if you snipped 6" of length off? Its mean wood and goes a long ways.
Boy........can we see it? I shot a Hill for years before starting on selfbows
DBar
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I must be seeing the grain then, the color distinction on what I am calling rings must just be seasonal effects.
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True ipe shouldn't have growth rings. It's a tropical wood that grows year round hence no froth rings. It does have grain. Is that what you are seeing? Yes it takes very little ipe for a gods bbi
I have always been able to tell the rings on the end cut on the Ipe I have used. If it is not Ipe I got, it sure is excellent bow wood either way. Am I confusing rings for grain?
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I must be seeing the grain then, the color distinction on what I am calling rings must just be seasonal effects.
Maybe that is what I am confusing for rings, is there a way to tell the difference, as it sure looks like rings on the end cut?
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I must be seeing the grain then, the color distinction on what I am calling rings must just be seasonal effects.
Maybe that is what I am confusing for rings, is there a way to tell the difference, as it sure looks like rings on the end cut?
It is - of course you can see the rings. It's diffuse porous so there isn't a distinct boundary like a ring porous wood but you can see the grain/rings.
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I was going to mention that, but saved my typing. It has rings. My ipe piece was almost flat sawn with a 1/4 sawn hickory back. Sometimes you just have to touch the ends with sandpaper to see the rings. Ive only made 5-6 hard backed ipe bows and they all had grain running in various directions, never seemed to matter much. Its all about the tiller, as usual.
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People who say tropical wood has no growth rings aren't looking closely enough. It is glaringly obvious if you look at an end cut.
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Thanks for clarifying that guys!