Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Around the Campfire => Topic started by: autologus on May 13, 2014, 11:29:41 am
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I have a question, what kind of target do you guys use for stone points? I am thinking something like hay would work best to not damage them or possibly loosen them from the shaft upon extraction.
Grady
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I like to go to the garden store and buy a big bale of peat moss. When it gets torn up too much I have a roll of plastic wrap that is used for shipping and wrap it tight and shoot some more. A bale will last me a good season then I use it for mulch.
Hippy
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Holy Crap...ol Hippy posted a comment!! :o dp
oh...that's a good idea too. Never heard that one.
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Holy Crap...ol Hippy posted a comment!! :o dp
oh...that's a good idea too. Never heard that one.
Someone must've forgotten to take there medicine 8) :laugh:
Yeah..I as well as some others would sure like to hear more from ya old hippy ;)
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A bale of peat sounds like a great idea, I would have never thought of that. My only problem with buying peat my wife might think I need to start on the flower beds. >:D
Grady
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Straw bales work, too. After a year or so of shooting, they are pretty rotten. Mulch 'em in, and replace as necessary.
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Wish I could say the same, but Osage Outlaw uses big, heavy beamed, Indiana 8 pointers for his stone points! :laugh:
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They are only good for one shot Greg
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They are only good for one shot Greg
Well, you got me there. But, I would prefer a one shot target like that any day, over a worn out bale of hay. At least you can eat your target after shooting. :laugh:
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Hogs work real good. :D Just kidding, You can take the foam out of couch cushions and use them.
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How does a peat bale work for target points? I'd sure rather buy peat than styrofoam
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fill a gunny sack with those disposable plastic bags from the store when it gets shot up put it all in another bag
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Round bales of hay. One will last three or four years if you put a tarp or piece of tin over it. of course, they are half big as a volkswagon, so i guess it depends on how much space you have. ;)
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My experience, there is no reason to shoot your hunting heads at anything other than live animals. If you dedicate a stone head to practice with then I get it, but every shot will dull the edge almost without exception. I have used old couch cushions, but even then I could tell they lost a bit of their edge. If you are practicing with blunts, and switch to stone heads, just make sure your weighs are the same and the heads are mounted straight then trust your practice. Believe me when I say, you want your stone points to be as sharp as they possibly can be. JMHO
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yes the hippy made one of those rare posts and I am off my meds for now ;D String, no offence but Gun Doc and I were talking the other day and we both think having the sides sharp isn't that important. Remember that most projectile points were bone, antler or wood. None of these materials could be sharpened enough to cut like a piece of sharp stone but they were used more than stone. One of the most important features is for the point to be a sharp point. I have artifacts that only have a worked tip and the rest is pretty much a rough piece of stone. These little buggers are about 1/4 to 3/8 long and they were used for bear, deer, elk and bison. The point is, sharp point and arrow placement.
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No offense taken. I'm only going on practical hunting experience and from my perspective, I would have to disagree with your theory. I've noticed that the sharper my points have become, the more penetration I'm getting and the more massive the bleed out is. A deer hit with merely a point will commonly stop bleeding and recover, but a deer with extensive internal lacerations will often die within yards of the hit location.
I would theorize that the bone and wood points were more often used on small game than large game since they have less blood to lose and smaller chance of recovering from a hard hit. It's also possible that hits to key areas (spine or neck shots) would bring down large game and result in less wasted meat.
I'm no expert, just going on what I see first hand.
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The angles and size seem to play in about as much as the sharpness, not saying that sharp is not important , just there are many other factors
the energy driving the point being the huge factor
The less energy behind it the more important the other factors
now back to the ?at hand I use a piece of 2 inch blue foam about a foot in front of the target to take the energy away so it does not have much penitration and little to no effect on the head
have fun
Guy