Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: lesken2011 on May 04, 2014, 10:08:33 am
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I just did my first set of billets with a z-spliced handle. I used unibond 800 epoxy. I put a good amount of glue, but as you know it is hard to get it down into the deepest part of the v. I thought when I closed it up, excess glue would squeeze into the points, but after drying and cleaning up, there are tiny pinholes. Being paranoid that the splice may come apart, I was thinking I would run some thin super glue in there to help with final seal up. Then it occurred to me that the super glue may somehow have an adverse effect on the epoxy. The handle is a full inch thick, right now, so I do plan on gluing a small 1/4 in piece of wood on the front and back of the splice to round off for comfort. What do you think? Anyone been through this before?
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Ken, I have no direct experience with those 2 glues and any chemical reactions, but believe it's probably not a good idea. A lot of the epoxies will show those pin holes if they are "whipped" when mixed or because of the catalyzing process. It's also possible that as the epoxy heated up during catalyzing it sucked some small amounts of air out of the wood. In any case the small pin-holes should not be an issue (mind I haven't seen your glue joint firsthand) You can use a small amount of epoxy and warm it up....it will get quite thin and perhaps fill the holes like that.
Just one opinion, though
rich
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Thanks, Rich. I may try that. I am probably being a worry wort. I am sure I got enough glue in there to do the job. With the front and back overlays, it should be fine. You know how it is when it is your first one. You want to be as sure as you can.
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I always glue a piece on the belly of a splice to build the handle up if I don't have 1 1/2" thickness for shaping. I feel this extra wood reinforces the splice a good bit. Don't worry about voids, you have plenty of gluing surface.
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Cured epoxy is inert. On my model boats I have used CA over epoxy many times with no issues.
Don
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Thanks, guys. I normally use super glue for my handle overlays when they are this thin (just for rounding the handle, but I think I will use more unibond to give it a little insurance. May a little will seep down in the pin holes if I heat it up a little while I am at it.
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Kenny I use a double layer of painter tape on the bottom side of the joint to hold all the glue in. Then keep poking the holes with a tooth pick until they take no more. Then I lay a nice turd of glue right on top and let it go. Generally speaking that turd is absorbed into the joint and is barley visible after a few days. I got tired of dealing with the issue you having now. It may be nothing to sweat, take a pic and lets see. Remember also, a lot of that joint will be shaped away as you go. You might be surprised how many gaps are gone.