Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: TheDukesArchers on April 21, 2014, 12:42:25 pm
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I've just finished a hickory backed Osage short D bow (55ntn) and I'm thinking of sinew backing it. I have some hide glue and sinew left over from a previous native bow project. The bow shoots fine as it is, but I'd like to give the bow some reflex, extra power and a little more draw length. I was thinking around 3 layers of sinew over a period of 3 months. Would this add much benefit do you think?
Thanks :)
EDIT
I backed the Osage with hickory as it was an Osage board.
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You've already backed it with hickory, so no, don't back it with sinew.
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I backed it as it was an Osage board and not a stave. I still think a few layers of sinew will make it a better bow.
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I don't, but go ahead. If you wanted reflex, you could have added it during glue up. If you wanted more draw weight you could have tillered that in. Sinew backing that bow will not make it better or add much draw weight. It will just add more mass to an already backed bow and it will probably perform worse.
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In my experience sinewing an already shot in bow will only add protection for the bow. I've never experienced a great deal of an increase in weight; much less performance. Save your sinew and glue for another.
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I backed it as it was an Osage board and not a stave. I still think a few layers of sinew will make it a better bow.
I assumed it was an Osage board, cuz I've never seen a hickory backed Osage stave. ;D
It would be very labour intensive to decrown and flatten an Osage stave enough to back it with wood. Chasing a ring is much easier.
Plus, a hard backing like hickory is better than sinew anyway. I know, I know.... Many will disagree, but hickory is stronger, more durable, and much easier and faster to apply. It sounds to me like you have a decent shooter already. Go and enjoy it!
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I backed it as it was an Osage board and not a stave. I still think a few layers of sinew will make it a better bow.
Nope, it will make it a dog. Stick with what you have done.
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Well a Turkish bow is a Maple backed horn bow which then has sinew added.... I would try the double backing concept before definitively saying it will be slower etc. etc.
There is a reason that all natural material flight bow records are held by sinew backed bows.
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Considering it wasn't designed and built to work together in reflex from conception and that you've already shot it, Id almost bet my bow rack that any added reflex will be shot out after a 100-150 shots. Just a hunch.
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Have to know if any glued up reflex was induced first and how far the bow has actually been drawn so far.
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I like sinew... I like sinew, a lot. Sinew is wonderful stuff. When I choose to sinew, it is a predetermined, planned part of the bow that I decide to make. I never use it as a "fix" or an "improvement" after the fact. (with the exception maybe for a sinew band-aid to hold down an unforeseen split or grain runoff). For myself, I believe that sinew should be a fore-thought, not an after-thought. But that's me.
With that being said, I am with the majority in that it won't help your cause. However, Nothing ventured, nothing gained. You seem to be seeking a nudge to go with it so, try it. Record a forced draw curve and some other stats maybe like max flight distance and chrono feet per second prior to adding sinew. Then record the same data elements after your sinew is on and cured. Then, you'll know for absolute certain gains vs. losses.
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Draw it further also. It's not an apples to apples comparison. The sinew is supposed to make it a different bow.
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For the record, I would have done it 200 bows ago when I was more of a "find it out for myself" kinda guy! Ive since learned a few lessons, that's why I suggested leaving it be.
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I'd like to "tango" on this one,and say some things,but I'll keep me mouf shut :-X :laugh:
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I like sinew... I like sinew, a lot. Sinew is wonderful stuff. When I choose to sinew, it is a predetermined, planned part of the bow that I decide to make. I never use it as a "fix" or an "improvement" after the fact. (with the exception maybe for a sinew band-aid to hold down an unforeseen split or grain runoff). For myself, I believe that sinew should be a fore-thought, not an after-thought. But that's me.
With that being said, I am with the majority in that it won't help your cause. However, Nothing ventured, nothing gained. You seem to be seeking a nudge to go with it so, try it. Record a forced draw curve and some other stats maybe like max flight distance and chrono feet per second prior to adding sinew. Then record the same data elements after your sinew is on and cured. Then, you'll know for absolute certain gains vs. losses.
Well said. I couldn't agree more. The first part, anyway.
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I'd like to "tango" on this one,and say some things,but I'll keep me mouf shut :-X :laugh:
Yah right. ::) ;D
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Well a Turkish bow is a Maple backed horn bow which then has sinew added.... I would try the double backing concept before definitively saying it will be slower etc. etc.
There is a reason that all natural material flight bow records are held by sinew backed bows.
A sinew backed Turkish bow is not even on the same planet as a hickory backed osage flatbow with no reflex. The only thing they have in common is they're bows.
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Does it have reflex? I'm not sure about that for this bow. Remember a Turkish bow is not actually much reflexed in the bending portion of the limb. Certainly even less before the sinew is applied.
Same planet, both bows.