Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: kayakfisher on April 11, 2014, 04:11:08 pm
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which limb takes more strain top or bottom limb.I don't recall.
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Id like to think a well balanced bow in hand has equally well balanced limbs.
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Ive been told, weaker limb on top, bottom works harder
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The bottom limb should be a bit stiffer but that is for positive tiller.
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It's a little more complicated than that... and misunderstood. Which limb is more strained depends on the bow's design relative to the archer's holds on grip and string AND how the limbs are tillered... and timed.
Think about it in terms of strain per inch.... while thinking about limb length relative to its length from dips to tips AND how far the string grooves are from the dynamic balance point. Sorry but there's stuff going on there. It ain't simple. Depending on design, relative stress between limbs shifts various amounts during the draw and then back upon release. Just physics.
On symmetrical bows shot split fingered? Since the string is pulled from far above center, the top limb is more-strained... which goes against conventional theory... and I challenge anyone to prove differently.
It's ok for one limb to be strained more than the other if it is tillered to be stronger to resist the strain. But who makes a bow with a stronger top limb? :^)
Me :^)
But I digress, the bows whose limbs I've tillered/timed that were most equally strained per inch/length were asymmetrical (longer top limb) and shot three under. Go figure....
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Depends on how the handle is held. I heel the bow so I think the bottom limb is strained. Jawge
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squirrel how much do you consider FAR above center on a symmetrical bow the bow hand is centered two above and two below, and even split most of the pressure is below the arrow, I try to tiller my bows even and get little set most bows and shoot split
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'Far' is relative. It isn't much... in inches...no more than 2 usually, but when it comes to shifts from static to dynamic balance during the draw, and epitomizing smoothness of draw, lack of handshock, and good clean arrow flight, etc. a little means a lot. In fact 2" is a long, long ways. I know guys trying to reduce their variance from 1/4" to zero.
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squirrel how much do you consider FAR above center on a symmetrical bow the bow hand is centered two above and two below, and even split most of the pressure is below the arrow, I try to tiller my bows even and get little set most bows and shoot split
I think I am on the same page with bubby. I draw a line in the center of a bow. If it's a 60 inch bow - line is at 30. I grab the bow with my middle finger over the line and mark either side of my hand for where the handle will be. Shooting off my fist, the arrow is passing a finger and a half's width above center. String's nocking point? I put it where I am hitting neither high nor low. Not too scientific, I realize, but I am getting good results. I don't tiller on a tree past 20" draw. The rest of the way is done by looking at the drawn bow in a mirror, pic or a shadow. How it feels in the hand and how it looks when the hand is drawing it is all important to me. All that said, somewhere in the process, if I see that one limb appears to be stronger, or has less defects, or might be a little stiffer, then I choose that one to be the bottom limb. That's just the way I do it. I have learned lately that which limb is longer or shorter or where you put the arrow pass doesn't mean as much as you think it does. Assymetrical bows can shoot darn good too.
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WE sort of highjacked kayakfisher in this thread so I split them. Please only post messages related to his question
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WE sort of highjacked kayakfisher in this thread so I split them. Please only post messages related to his question
:o :o I thought that's what we were doing?