Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: CPLSeraphim on April 05, 2014, 05:13:42 pm
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I had been trying to make semi matching bows for my father and I. Just starting out I used red oak boards at lowes. They are cheap and fairly easy to work with. Well, the first happened to be, say, mid build when my scraper caught a splinter and dug into the bow, cracking straight through. The second, the left handed fella I was making for my dad, did well all the way to on the tillering tree, and out for the shooting a few arrows through it. The arrows wouldn't stick in the tree at all. So I tried to look at the bow's weight. 28 ish pounds. when I pulled back with my... fishing scale... I pulled back once again to test... and the top half of my bow cracked. This wasn't bad, as I hear you aint making bows if your not breakiing em, but I am ready to start with my third attempt. Another red oak board bow. Hoping for the best of luck with this one. I am going to update with my progress, but this will take some time, but hopefully third times a charm.
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heard it said third time's a charm...having repeated it...all i can say is go sloooooooooow...and goos luck
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Just keep trying!
I started this summer and have yet to make a successful one myself. Broke 4 bows so far:P but one day I will succeed...
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... mid build when my scraper caught a splinter and dug into the bow, cracking straight through.
Even a hatchet would take a huge amount of force to do this. What really happened?
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Gotta agree with PatM. No way a scraper would come close to doing that kind of damage to a bow limb. We're happy to help but we need accurate info to do so.
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Went through 14 marginal log staves years ago. Boards are easier to use provided you choose straight grained stock. There is a red oak buildalong on my site.
You can modify it to 1 3/8 in wide out to mid limb tapering to 1/2 inch nocks. The handle will bend. No glued on pieces/ No narrowing of the handle.
It is a good first bow design.
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/boardbowbuildalong.html
jawge
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If your tool digs in turn the work or yourself around.
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i think he caught a splinter and it made a big tearout, it's happened with fibery woods for me.
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;) Don't give up you'll get there. Broke about 6 before I had one hold togeather. This is a build-a-long for a board bow. Maple is my choice but to each his own. http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html
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It should not happen with any wood. If it does do what I said. All a matter of grain direction.
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I would back red oak board bows. Cloth or something you have handy, no need to spend money on more expensive backing just starting out.
Patrick
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I caught a splinter, on a corner and it dug in. I turned around and kept going, as soon as I put it on the tiller tree and it snapped. that the fuller story. and I have seen you site. that was my build along guide, George Tsoukalas.
I'm still going, and keeping it alive as I build.
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It's very important to round off all of the edges well .I use a rasp and then plumbers sand cloth to make everything smooth prior to tillering.
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Yeah, I am continuing on the red oak board til I get 2 bows out and shooting, then I will go to staves and make bows out of more interesting materials. Also, sidenote, I was backing with that cloth snakeskin from 3 rivers. Figured just starting, that would look nice. When the second bow snapped, the backing broke right there along with the bow. impressive, being cloth, and using tightbond 3.
Also, would you suggest working on these red oak board til getting decent seeing as how they are cheap, and easily available before moving to staves? I guarentee I am getting 2 good ones this year... eventually, because my dad is getting a bow license this year, and the 45# righty doesn't work well for his lefty-ness? 40-45# will work fine, so long as its the wrong way (lefty...lol) I am hoping to get some better results since the first 2 were progressively better, and my dads never shot a bow, so we need some practice this summer before season comes out.
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I broke several boards in my more youthful years before I'd done any research on how to tiller. After I learned what tillering was I have used nothing but staves and my first three attempts in a row yielded working bows. A good stave lends itself to good learning.
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The key is the straight grain. Could I see a picture of your board stave? Jawge
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Cpl, I've made a lot of bows, but never a board bow. So, if when you get that board bow finished you'll have one up on me. I think anyone who has made bows has had one go south on him.
Be patient, and follow the help you get on here from the guys who have made a board bow. I think it's great that your making a bow for your dad.
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red oak will make a good bow, but you are better off getting some hickory or maple or white oak boards, they cost about the same as red oak and you have a better chance of getting a shooter
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My first board bow was built following sam harper's
Build a long. Just google- poor folks bows. He's site is great for beginners. My first bow still shoots....
But be careful, bow making is addictive...
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I'm new to bow building myself, I have read that a lot of people have problems with red oak boards breaking. I know that these oards are kiln dried which forces the moisture out of them. This is true on most lumber at the store. That being said I have tillered two bows as of today that are both red oak. I'm not sure it made a lot of difference but I bought my board about 5 month's before I used it. I let it sit in my garage, not on purpose, but it had time to draw some moisture and acclimate to the environment in which it was going to worked on. Now I did back both of my bows before I tillered them one with dog bone rawhide(witch works really well) and the other one with fiberglass cloth (sorry I know it doesn't belong here). Both of them was modeled after a build along from boarrior boys on YouTube. Good luck buddy, and keep trying you will make one happen! Patrick
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It should not happen with any wood. If it does do what I said. All a matter of grain direction.
I can attest to that one George. I did my homework (your site included!) for weeks beforehand, then I spent a full 1 1/2 hours in the wood specialty store going thru what seemed like hundred pieces of wood before I found one with straight grain and little or no run-off that was laid out to end up in the tips area. Result: Success! 42#'er @ 29 and a very efficient sweet MAPLE shooter. Spits 'em like darts, flat n true. .Ron
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Make red oak wide and long, like 2" wide. Use a tillering gizmo and never pull the bow past your target weight. Good luck.
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I have made a few bows now and I still break them regularly. You will learn so much more from the ones that dont make it than the ones that do.
I accept and understand why each failure happens and that's the key.
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I'd almost be willing to bet that most board bows break because of grain run offs, either on the back or run offs along the sides. Some of the wood bought at lumber stores is weaker than it ordinarily would be because the way I was handled from the stump to the store. In most cases that doesn't matter because you can still make a good table, chair or box with it but for bows you need very sound wood that can handle the bending and recovery that bow wood needs. Finding the best grain possible is the place to start but also the "heft" of the wood. Some boards feel lighter than others of the same wood. I'd choose the heavier stuff.
I haven't made many board bows over the last few years but I made lots before. Most were backed though. I've always had enough stave wood to keep me going. I have nothing against board bows. I'm seen some very nice board bows. I just prefer tree staves over boards for my bow building.
I don't think that kiln drying adversely affects boards for bow building either. As much as we manipulate our bow woods with heat, wet or dry, and in hot boxes these days I just don't see where kiln drying matters. Slow air drying might be better. Probably makes for more stable wood in the long run.
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That's some good advice Pat B!
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If you look on youtube and search for tillering, you should be able to find richard heads longbows video on tillering, which I think is actually pretty good. It just takes practice, like anything. And like anything, diligent practice will pay off results, everytime. Just stick with it. I have had bouts where I break like 4 bows in a row, for 4 different reasons! It's frustrating, but you just gotta take a little break for a while and cool off... ...maybe a chill out for a week or more, or until you feel like picking up another stave, and then get back at it! ;D
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As Pat said, most board bows break from grain run offs. You can increase your odds for success by choosing wider boards, then you can lay your bow out with a lot better grain orientation. Its just about impossible to find a 2" board that doesn't have a lot of run offs. Also always keep the edges smooth and rounded. Boards are a great way to learn, I broke my first seven board bows before I got a shooter, stay with it, the reward of a sweet shooting bow that you made yourself is well worth all the aggravation.