Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: lewstewns on March 28, 2014, 08:43:05 am
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hi folks and i apologise if this has been addressed before! i am making an ash bow with handle riser and i intend to make buffalo horn nock overlays. i use titebond III to glue riser and hide backing.can i use titebond to glue the horn overlays too? i want to keep it simple and dont ,if poss, want to use hide glue just for the nocks.cheers. lew
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I use tb3 or high grade super glue on all my tip over lays, tt3 just takes a little longer to set up,no problem,just clean the horn and wood good before gluing. :)
Pappy
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I used to use Titebond or epoxy for the overlays. I now use CA glue (gel) which seems to work fine if the 2 surfaces mate up well.
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I use low grade, thin super glue and it works just fine. But titebond will work as well. Just make sure you have flat surfaces that mate perfectly with either glue.
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Loctite Professional is all I use for all overlays. Never had a single one pop off.
A word of caution. Oil based sealers like Tung oil, tru oil, Danish oil and the like WONT stick to horn. Give them a coat of shellac first and your all set to seal with anything you want.
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thanks a lot for your advice guys.and also thanks PEARL DRUMS for the oiling advice.this is only my 4th bow and i have been using tru oil to finish.on my last effort i made african blackwood nocks and that wood didnt soak the tru oil up that good either.
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I use Loctite super glue.
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5 minute expoxy, loctite.
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Bostik or Cascol (white carpenters glue - waterproof type).
It's cheap and strong and I can live with the fact that it takes about an hour before it is totally dry.
I nearly always use one of the above or hideglue (exept for glueing points) - It's even quite good for fletching.
Epoxy, superglue and the likes are quite poisonous - I try to avoid them. ;)
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Not planing on eating it. ;) :)
Pappy
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One of the major components of superglue is cyanide. However, it is locked up in a molecule that cannot be broken by our metabolism, so it is utterly inert. Has plenty of medical uses, too.
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One of the major components of superglue is cyanide. However, it is locked up in a molecule that cannot be broken by our metabolism, so it is utterly inert. Has plenty of medical uses, too.
Glued semi -severed bits back on more than once, myself ;) Works not bad !
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Well all this concerning safety of different types of glue is really worthy a whole thread of its own - lets not hijack this one :-)
In general though, it can be said that eating the glue is of course normally not the greatest issue ;-)
I'm more concerned about skin contact and breathing the fumes (that can oftent not be smelled before it reaches concentrations way above recommended max).
I'm certanly not "religious" about the topic, but I am concerned about health and try not to expose myself or others to unnecessary chemicals.
But we can discuss all that in another thread if you like ;-)
Anyway - There are definitely lots of glue-types that work well for horn nock overlays - In my experience most glues work fine, as long as you clean up the surfaces first.
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I use loctite gel super glue.
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I've used all three TB glues, super glue both gel and thin and 2ton epoxy all with good results. If you are concerned about these chemicals use hide glue.
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Loc-Tite gel super glue