Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: budgolf on March 16, 2014, 09:56:16 pm
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So my bow finished out at around 31 pounds at 28 inches of draw. Im 70 inches NTN. The tiller isn't great but it will flat fling an arrow. I wanted 45 pounds at 28. Anyway, my question is, should I cut it down a bit? Hopefully I can improve the tiller and get my draw weight up to where I want it. My concern is, it's oak with a fabric backing. I go to much and it explodes. It would be awesome if I could just get it to 40. If cutting it down is an alright idea, how much should I start with? An inch from each end?
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3/budgolf/1510671_625958374145104_469637918_n_zps88e0efcd.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/budgolf/media/1510671_625958374145104_469637918_n_zps88e0efcd.jpg.html)
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Piking it an inch and a half from each limb shouldn't be a problem on a bow that long - that is my knee jerk answer. More pics with a full draw photo might get you some better advice.
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I need to see a full draw pic first, that shows the tiller. But going from 31 pounds to 40 pounds, means you would have to pike it at least 5" probably. In my opinion, that is too much. You're going too short then, and still don't have a good tiller necessarily.
My advice: pike it one inch from either end. Retiller. Be happy with what you got, and go make the next one!
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Ok gentleman here she is at full draw. Sorry the pic isn't the best. It looks to me like the upper limb is still a bit stiffer than the lower and the fades could be taken down. I think if I cut it down I can improve the tiller and get a few more pounds out of it.
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3/budgolf/fulldraw_zpsf0dce247.jpeg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/budgolf/media/fulldraw_zpsf0dce247.jpeg.html)
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Pretty stiff in the first 12" of each limb, you will lose about 5-6# loosening those buggers up.
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looks like you got no bend out if the first third of either limb out of the fades start your scraping there..i may be wrong but it dont look like its bending at all there. my 2cents.
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budgolf, I used to live in fayettville, I knew it when I seen all those tall pines...Get the fades moving a bit, take 2" off each tip. I would say heat temper the belly but you got her all finished up. Good heat temper could jump you 5 lbs give or take.
Don
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Budgolf,
I posted a similar question a few days ago about my 70" N2N maple bow(Bow #2). I ended up about 10# light by the time I was satisfied with the tiller. Based on replies I received I am in the process of trimming the bow down to 68" N2N. Its a little more than was recommended but it will work out better for the strings I have. Heat treating was recommended to me as well to temper the belly but I'm a bit gun-shy as this is only my second bow. I should have it back on the tiller tree by tomorrow. Ill let you know my findings. Here is the link to the replies I received. Good luck.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,45647.0.html
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Your fades (especially the top limb) are not bending at all. If you pike that bow, it will only make your existing problem worse. Your bow is only bending in a small area pretty much in the middle of each limb. The wood in that spot is highly overstressed while the rest of the limb is contributing nothing. I'd get those fades moving.
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definitely work those fades down a bit , look up tillering gizmo, make one it will change ur life than u can tell whats flat and what aint, go slow and good luk these guys here will set ya down the rite path
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loosen up the inner limb like has been said, make a gizmo or just use a straight edge 6" long and get it moveing evenly and then cut a few inches , if you want to raise the draw weight pike it two inches each end or give it to someone that can use a lighter weight bow and build anouther
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Thanks guys
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I'd use this one as a learning tool. Don't bother piking it just get the tiller dead on by doing what has been said. I would think by the time it's bending right and sanded you will lose 10 lbs so forget about the weight and concentrate on distributing the stresses with good tiller - this is more important than anything else!
Then with what you have learned make a great bow!
Definately make yourself a tillering gizmo as well. Superb aid when you are just starting.
Good luck.
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All the bending is happening at mid limb. Not much of the rest of the bow is bending. A bow with the tiller so way off should not be piked. You are just adding one problem on top of another. She may break on you. She survived because she's long.
Start another bow and get some experience tillering is my advice.
Jawge
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If this is your first, you may want to shelf it and be proud you produced a working bow as you move on. If not, or if you would rather get as much learning as possible... You can cut off 2'' from each end and then take some wood off the inner and outter 1/3rds of the limbs but don't touch the center section. When it's all done you may not gain a tone of poundage but you should end up with a much better tiller and better shooting bow. Good luck!
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Thanks for all of the help guys. I decided to leave her alone. She shoots pretty good the way she is. I'll just do another one. And another. And another :laugh:
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Heck yeah, that's the spirit. Once you are bit by the bow building bug, there will always be more. I think if you can build a shooter out of a red oak board, when you lay hands on some of the better bow woods, you will amaze yourself. I still do a hickory board bow from time to time, and am not strictly a stave snob, but I have found stave bows to be much easier - if nothing else, they are easier to find than good boards for me. Welcome to the obsession.