Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: adb on February 28, 2014, 07:23:58 pm
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Finally got this puppy in the bag. Took three tries, but third times the charmed. Here's the first full draw shots in the hand:
Vitals: 62" NTN, Hickory static recurves glued in with horizontal kerfs joints, backed with maple (over the glue joints to the base of the tips). 46#@26". 1 3/8" wide at the fades, tapering to 3/8" pin nocks. Maple, yew, ipe in the grip and risers. Staright grip (not bulbous like the first 2 failures). 1/2" of freshly unbraced set.
I'll do another complete post once it's all polished up. The new owner wants WDB SSs and a stitched leather grip.
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that is a beauty of a bend, bub
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Very sweet, like those tips.
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Very nice. I sure like the way the statics feel and shoot.
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That looks like one worth the wait. Sweet bend for sure!!
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I like it! I love the process you used for constuction. Very cool. The tiller is excellent!
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Smooooooth bend, nicely done! :)
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That's how you do it! Nice bend on that one.
Can you post a close up of the handle/fade area so we can see what you did differently? Thanks.
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Cool!nice tiller!
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Beautiful - a work of art!
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If it shoots as good as it looks its a keeper for sure!
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That's how you do it! Nice bend on that one.
Can you post a close up of the handle/fade area so we can see what you did differently? Thanks.
For this bow, I took the riser out into the fades. So, the first maple lam in the riser fades into where the bow is the widest on the back profile. The second bow broke right there, so I knew I had to strengthen that area. I hope you can see that in the picture.
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Beautiful bow,very nice work, :) as you say not my cup of tea but nice just the same. ;) :) :)
Pappy
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Great bow, show more detail. So do you think you will have any trouble with the riser popping off? What is the key to preventing that? How straight was the grain on the Ipe? Thanks for all the answers. I really respect your works!
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I just finished the bow yesterday... sanded out, finish applied, and leather grip stitched on. When it's dry, I'll take some more pics. Finish on ipe takes forever to dry, so it'll be a day or two before it's dry.
If you have enough thickness at the riser, and you tiller the bow not to bend through the handle, it won't pop off. You can't tiller out the bow and then attach the riser. It will pop off.
Because ipe grows year round, it's often difficult to determine grain orientation. I try to avoid big knots that I can see in the wood from the beginning, but I don't worry much about small pin knots or small grain swirls.
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Looks good :)
Try a quick coat of shellac first on ipe and other oily woods to stop the finish taking ages to dry. Works a charm.
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I don't worry much about small pin knots or small grain swirls.
I don't either. I have never once had a problem with a pin knot.
Finish on ipe takes forever to dry, so it'll be a day or two before it's dry.
Yeah it does. I tried using shellac on it first though like everyone suggested to me, and it worked great on the one I tried. I have to get better at applying it though. It does dry super fast. The only thing is I like how the tru oil soaks in and darkens the wood and makes it look all rich looking, the stuff I used (clear shellac) didn't do anything. So I guess next time I will pick up the natural amber shellac. But for the reason of finishes not curing on ipe, I like to use pure tung oil on ipe. It always looks great, and you can use the bow as the finish actually cures, so that's cool. As it is a wipe on, wait a bit, wipe off kinda finish. (My favorite, :D)
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Looks good :)
Try a quick coat of shellac first on ipe and other oily woods to stop the finish taking ages to dry. Works a charm.
Yes, this worked great for me.
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Thanks adb! I was looking at some Ipe the other day and I couldn't see the rings. That's why I asked. Thanks ill be patient. I know how it is posting all those pics and finding tile to build.