Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DuBois on February 17, 2014, 09:44:18 pm
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It seems that most of the sinew bows I see are bendy handle (maybe I haven't been paying attention).
I am wondering about sinewing a stiff handled bow.
If the length is say 62" but 9" of that is stiff handle, then wouldn't it benefit from sinew?
Also, couldn't it be sinewed from above fades to below the tips to reduce the amount of sinew needed or would you always go over the handle, regardless of it being stiff?
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So long as it's a thin layer it could work out right, I've heared that a sinew backing needs to go across the handle in one peiece
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I have seen blackhawk only sinew the working part of the limbs before.
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PatB did a build-a-long on his stiff handled sinew backed bow.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,38869.150.html
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That would probably work on a bow of that design. I have sinewed lots of stiff handled bows (not 9" though) that is a lot of non working bow for me.
I would sinew the handle too, it wont slow up the bow any and wont lift if it's all one piece.
That being said, I havent had sinew lift on me and I normally stop a few inches from the tips.
You just have to make sure the sinew is being stressed enough to make it worth having on the back of the bow.
Mark
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It will benefit if you reflex it and draw it further. It's better to just go across the handle and reduce the thickness there but it helps to have the sinew bridge the handle to tie everything together.
I'm sure you'll get a few people still telling you that sinewing a 62 inch bow is a waste of time. Most of them will be basing that on something they read in a book one time rather than real world testing. ;)
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I made a 62 inch Osage take down with just the limbes done to about 4 inches
from the tip to the fads,worked out great. :) May be to long for sinew but I liked it just fine. ;):)
Pappy
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If the length is say 62" but 9" of that is stiff handle, then wouldn't it benefit from sinew?
Man I hope so! Or I just wasted time sinewing a yew bow to those exact dimensions.
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I made 2 or 3 sinew backed bows that I did not cross the handle with the sinew and in all three cases the bows took set in the handle area. I like to make handles small and to bend slightly at full draw so I my case having the sinew go across the handle area, connecting both limbs worked better. Leaving the sinew off the non-bending tips was never a issue for me.
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That sinew needs to form a matrix from tip to tip regardless of handle design, IMO. Even if that handle doesn't bend, its still anchoring the limb and tying it all together.
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That my thoughts too Pearlie.
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Ok, thanks everybody.
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Design is with no recurves and about 2" reflex. With stiff handle would that still utilize the sinew enough to be worthwhile?
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I would prefer to start with 5-6" of reflex myself.
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OK, thanks PD,
I am debating sinew vs rawhide and have been leaning to hide. This decides it then.
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I've sinewed plenty o stiff handle static recurves in the 60" to 62" range. I prefer to go across the handle even when it's only 1 course same with the tips. As PD says I would put in at least 5" of reflex, do it before you apply the sinew. Apply the sinew so that the bulk of it is down the center of the limb and use at last 3 courses.
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Would you define a "course". Is it a complete layer of sinew? Is it one row of bundles?
Thanks
Don
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In this context I am thinking it means a complete layer, but not sure what anyone else means exactly.
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A course is a complete layer.
I call the method of sinew backing I use an intelligent use of sinew with the last course acting almost like a sinew cord down the center of the limb. I've made short stiff handle recurves of around 60" long with over 30" of draw using my method and they still retained some reflex
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Thanks, maybe one day I'll be able to answer questions instead of just asking.
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So Marc,
do you completely cover the back in the first course and then progressively narrow the courses until the last is the "cord down the middle"?
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Yes that is how I do it. Also the outer parts of the limbs that don't work, such as the tips, only get 1 course
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Yes that is how I do it. Also the outer parts of the limbs that don't work, such as the tips, only get 1 course
Do you do the single layer first or last? I'm thinking last so it holds everything down.
Questions questions
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The other way Don.
Entire back covered in first layer then a little narrower, then a little narrower again until it is just a strip down the center. sinew binds to itself real good without glue and even better with it.
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The reasoning behind stacking your sinew is that the highest section down the center gets strained more than if you had a flat back. Mainly because sinew can stretch to about 85 elongation and wood a whole lot less. Sinew/glue is about 1.3sg so its heavy stuff...no good putting heavy stuff on the limbs if you don't make the absolute most of it. That's why they advised you to go for a lot of reflex before sinewing.
I think it's definately worth sinewing a 62 inch bow. One of my best recurves is 64 ntn, sinew backed osage - 63#@28 and it does 185fps with 9 grains per lb and that's in the near constant high humidity here. When I hear it's not worth sinewing bows over 50 inch or whatever I always wish I could hand them that bow..... ;) ;)
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So I'm still debating the sinew. This is not a recurve but it does have 3" reflex and I could pull it into about 5" when sinewed. Would this utilize the sinew enough to be worthwhile?
62" long with 9" stiff handle ;)
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Hell Yes! even with just my limited experience...................I've use sinew on a static where the static part was not sinew and it was well worth it. I'll post it later when it its skinned, it is very dry/cured/stable after about 500 shots. and still holds some reflex.
DBar
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Im tillering a 62" stiff handled sinew backed bow this weekend doobs, Ill let you know how GREAT it works!
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Alright fellas, I think I will just do it ;D >:D
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When in doubt, glue on deer parts.
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How long is the draw on that bow PD?
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27-28"
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I'm going for 26". Still should be respectable with 5" reflex huh?
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I have exactly 5" Im starting with before any bending of any sort. At 26" Id snip an inch off each end of your rig. But, either way will make a great bow.
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OK, she's down to 60" and gonna get it on tonight >:D
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All done doob's. Its been shot maybe 100 times now. I started with 5" and stopped at 2 3/4". Not too bad for a stiff handled 60" bow ( I snipped 1" off each end) pulling 27" plus.
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All done doob's. Its been shot maybe 100 times now. I started with 5" and stopped at 2 3/4". Not too bad for a stiff handled 60" bow ( I snipped 1" off each end) pulling 27" plus.
Got any beauty shots??
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Not yet Cam. Ill have it done in 6-7 days.