Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: gene roberts on December 22, 2007, 02:17:52 pm
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This is my setup:Herters 50lb @ 28".I use 145 field points and 31" long Easton excel 500's.You can have 2 votes because some broadheads are pretty much equal.I want a good quality,but cheap broadhead.They need to be screw-ons.If you know any good ones that are not listed,Please Inform me of them.I will use them for hog or deer,possibly even bear.Thank you
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When I shoot commercial heads I use Wensels or Grizzlies.
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Ok,What are your specs.What would be the best kind of broadheads for me.
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First,I'd get rid of all the plastic.I shoot 125 grain heads out of a #60 osage bow. Mounted on bamboo shafts.
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What plastic???
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Ribtek also makes a good dependable point
wvflintknapper
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For commercial heads I also like Grizzleys or Wensels. I shoot 50#-60# self bows with either cedar or sourwood shoot arrows. I like to make my arrows 500gr to 650gr. I also shoot cane arrows and if they don't have stone or trades I use the Grizzleys or Wensels. They are both 125 gr and I believe you can get a screw in Wensel that are 135gr or so. Pat
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Thanks,I can probably get an insert to make them heavier.
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You never mentioned the Howard Hill points. I have shot a lot of grizzlies and zwickies but am sure the hills will out penetrate. Kenneth
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I know the snuffers and wensels are great broadheads, but I have had a hard time sharpening the three blades. I have switched to a two blade design: Magnus II - 160 gr., and they sharpen very easily.
Of course there is also arrow flight and accuracy to consider...my dad told me when I made the switch to the Magnus that he used to use the big two blade design as well and had what he calls "planing"...there was a lot of surface area on the broadhead to catch the wind, I guess? I haven't had a chance to shoot the Magnus yet, so I cannot confirm if this is a real problem or not. Anybody else experienced this phenomenon?
It is interesting to note though that the most "cutting edge" designs use more than two blades...I wonder if there have been some tests to determine which is a better performer (or which simply sell better).
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The best research I've read was done by Dr. Ed Ashby. There is a good article on him in the latest issue of Traditional Bowhunter and a good read on their website, Tradgang.
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I am also a member of Tradgang.
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I use the 160 Ace,glue on.I shoot it out of a 50 to55lb bow at 26 in.They are all good
heads if you put them in the right spot,you will just have to try some out and see what
flies and works best for you.I like a 2 blade head out of my selfbows,probably not quite as
good a blood trail sometimes but better penetration at least for me.You have to remember
everyone shoots different and hunts different and there are no set rule on what will or will
not work,you just kind of have to work it out. :)
Pappy
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Hi,
3 blade snuffers have just made some gawd awful holes in everything I've connected with. They're easy to tune, as well. Seems easier to get them to fly straighter than a 2 blade head.
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Thanks for the advice.
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Gene, Check on TradGang. There was talk about increasing the weight of the Wensel's by adding lead to the socket.
Woody, The Wensel 3 blade is the easiest head for me to sharpen. Just lay 2 blades at once on the stone or file, do one stroke and rotate to the next set of 2. After a few licks on each set they are sharp. I also like recut the very tip so it isn't as pointy but still sharp. Pat
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You didn't mention zwickey 4-blade and assume it m ight be your concerned about poundage? and again maybe not. Just a little info and food for thought. I take 4-blade zwickeys and change the angle from just behind the main blade point making them very thin ans sharp! Leave extra meat at the point. On the fixed 'bleeders' I take a flat needle file and cross file them almost paper thin and razor sharp. Great blood trail!!!! By making them so thin, if they hit bone they can bend or rip back--not impeding penetration--if they hit flesh--what a hole. If I get one with mangled bleeders I remove them and use as a practice arrow. Anyway--just what I've come up with that I'm happy with--BUT-- I only hunt whitetail and turkey--so there's no heavy boned animals involved. Just a thought on how you can manipulate a factory head. :)
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i have used 125 ribtechs on goats 160 pigs and a mate droped a large water buff with 190's also good on pigs very easy to sharpen
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Gene, Check on TradGang. There was talk about increasing the weight of the Wensel's by adding lead to the socket.
Woody, The Wensel 3 blade is the easiest head for me to sharpen. Just lay 2 blades at once on the stone or file, do one stroke and rotate to the next set of 2. After a few licks on each set they are sharp. I also like recut the very tip so it isn't as pointy but still sharp. Pat
really?...that's what I've tried and have had minimal success with razor sharpness. In frustration, I've pushed, pulled, and swirled the heads in all directons with different stones and can't figure out what's up.