Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: rossfactor on January 29, 2014, 02:44:18 am
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Full disclosure... I started this project in late October, early November. Was planning on finishing by Christmas and than life happened. As I start this post I just braced the bow (10 minutes ago) for the first time, so no guarantees this will have a happy ending.
Here's the short story. Bryce and I decided to do a bow swap back in September. Needless to say I was stoked on the prospect, and fully expected to get the better end of the deal, (if you haven't checked out Pinecone's bows... get on the stick).
I had a feeling Bryce would be preferring a plum bow... as its not much secret that I tend to favor plum over other woods. I was fortunate enough to do some pruning on a nice purple leaf plum in my sisters yard. Figured I'd post the process, of building this bow, however (further disclosures) (1) my camera is busted, so I'm using my phone camera (takes decent pics) and (2) my shop isn't what you'd call... Gordons shop (for example ;)).
If that didn't scare you off, lets get this show on the road:
Here is the little PLP that this stave came from. I cut this in fall, so she doesn't have all her glorious purple leaves...
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131130_141038_zps25e62b8c.jpg)
The stave was 2.5 inches in diameter tapering to 2 inches on the small end. When I cut it it was 72 inches long.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131008_162023_zps29640a25.jpg)
On these small diameter pieces, I read the bark for twist, but I always start with a hatchet to rough the bow out. I picked the belly by trying minimize heat treating for string alignment (a profile where the tips where almost inline) and a slightly deflexed inner limb profile, which I tend to prefer. This layout (what side of the stave I picked for the belly)resulted in a moderately high crown, but PLP is both elastic and strong in tension, so I'm not too concerned with a high-ish crown.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131008_162824_zps458bc455.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131008_162829_zps79c7b635.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131008_163547_zpsc0de9fa6.jpg)
My primary goal in roughing the bow out was to get the limbs reduced down past the pith. If you don't remove material past the pith in PLP, it's been my experience that there is almost no way to avoid the bow checking. But if reduce past the pith, and dry carefully, I usually don't have to much problem with checking.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131008_163608_zps49c68c9a.jpg)
Once I have roughed out the stave with my hatchet, I put the bow in the vice to make sure that the two 'planes' of my limbs are paralleled (meaning, to make sure I'm not introducing twist shaping my limbs in an uneven way). I than work the limbs down a little more with the draw knife as I even them out.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131008_164414_zpsf916ae5a.jpg)
Once I had the stave reasonably roughed out I wrapped it in plastic wrap to prevent checking (at least I tried). My drying process for drying small diameter PLP is: rough the bow out, wrap in plastic, let sit for 2-3 weeks away from heat, cut holes in plastic (1-2 weeks), remove plastic (1 week), dry indoors near the fire 2 week. This 7-8 week process gets the wood dry, although not seasoned (not getting into that debate here). I bring the bow inside as I work on it and based on how slow I am, that gives it a few more months of drying time ;D ;D
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131008_162600_zpsdf4c7161.jpg)
Lots more to come...
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Oh boy. I've got two or three staves worth of plumb on my grandparents' property, this should be perfect.
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Here's the stave wrapped in plastic
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131008_165415_zpsf79c7236.jpg)
Well, a few weeks later, after I unwrapped the bow, I was bummed to see that the handle area had checked. This was totally my fault because I forgot to put glue over the place where the pith enters the handle. While you can remove material past the pith in the bow limbs, you can't avoid pith in the handle (unless you do a glued on riser, which I didn't want to do).
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131113_191312-Copy_zpsb9c41e42.jpg)
So, I pontificated on what to do for a while with the handle check. I finally decided, for some crazy reason (more to come on this) that I should cut out a v shaped inlay to replace the checked are in the handle. Basically, inlay a square piece of wood, on a 90% edge into the handle. To cut out the inlay, I first squared off the top of handle area.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131123_201847-Copy_zps7d2cb07d.jpg)
Than I built a jig for my japanese pull saw that would allow me to cut a grove that was 90% relative to the face of my squared off handle.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131123_212553-Copy_zpsb45db1a9.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131123_212535-Copy_zps07b63809.jpg)
The result was reasonably good, and with a little squaring work from my trusty cabinet scraper, I was ready to glue in my inlay. I chose some darl rosewood scraps that I had laying around for the inlay. I mixed up some epoxy, fit the squared piece of rosewood into my grove and tied it with string
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131125_113649-Copy_zps58631c9d.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131125_114627-Copy_zps4303db17.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131125_114848-Copy_zpsb9d92fc4.jpg)
Once it was dry (24 hours) I removed the string, and roughly shaped out the handle area.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131126_111534-Copy_zps84326b81.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131126_112302-Copy_zpsca3f3220.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131126_112620-Copy_zpsb0a26329.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131126_113213-Copy_zpsfcce5313.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131126_114236-Copy_zps83dcf51b.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131127_133243-Copy_zpsbbed0d4e.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131127_133134-Copy_zps44a5d85a.jpg)
I thought all was well, but... 36 hours later, the handle contracted and the groove widened in the warmer Sonoma County air (I was working on the bow at my folks house). This resulted in one side of my inlay pulling out...
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131203_200942-Copy_zps5bc21481.jpg)
So back to work... I had to remove the old inlay material, and replace it....
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131203_201446-Copy_zps5d9de512.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131203_201442-Copy_zpsea5d82fe.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131203_202805-Copy_zps247e7a2a.jpg)
New inlay went in well, and I did some extra shaping
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131126_114216-Copy_zps5520d11e.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131206_213902-Copy_zps23584fae.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131206_220210_zpsddafc0e6.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131206_220152_zps61b765d1.jpg)
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Yes Sir!
I'm watching!
Shame about losing the first Inlay...
But it looks Real Nice Now.
Wish my Plumb looked that Purty...
The stuff I have growing here is Ugly As Sin.
And not Bow Worthy.
:)
-gus
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Extraordinary idea for the riser. That will look fantastic on the finished bow!
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Stunning. Really.
Don't suppose you could provide some more pics or details on that angled saw jig? Looks like it might lend itself to splices as well!
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Thanks for posting this - I'm learning a lot by your efforts!
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Smart solution for filling in that handle check Gabe, thats some great thinking and is gonna look nice to boot. Would have been a shame to lose a nice looking stave like that one because of the check. Looking forward to seeing more of this build along.
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Very cool way to pull off the riser/grip! Should look fantastic when you're done.
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Love these types of posts. Looks like a great solution to the problem.
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Interesting buildalong, I will be following.
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This is a great build along. Fantastic idea for the check. Love the look of the points coming out of the fades very clean and classy. Can't wait to see more. In the next town over one of my clients has an old plum orchard that hasn't been taken care of for about fifteen years. She told me I could come out when it would be best to prune for the trees sake. I can't wait to go check it out.
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Awesome :) can't wait to see the progress! I'm a big fan of your plumb bows, gonna have to give that wood a try someday.
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That is a nice piece of plum. Way to overcome the handle checks. That will look awesome.
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Thanks you guys! I'll post responses and more pics today after work...
Gabe
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That is a cool handle fix. Would be nice on a handle that don't even need fixin just for the awsome look. Terry
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This is going to be fun, thank you for posting this.
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The handle looks sharp the way you did it.
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I'm watching intently, have two plum bows yet to be finished :)
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Cool solution on the check in the handle!
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Oh yeah! Stoked!
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Great idea for the grip
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that handle is awesome.
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What a great an original idea for the handle. I have my own ideas, but I would love to see better shots of your pull saw jig please.
Russ
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The stave headed back to the table for some limb tapering. I do this with my Nicholson and my cabinet scraper. I run my thumb and fore finger down each limb feeling for evenness looking for areas to remove wood. I do try to get the thickness taper as close as I can even before floor tillering.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131207_113757_zps03013003.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131207_114024_zpsa043161a.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131207_114010_zps772ce00b.jpg)
At this point the stave is about 1.75 inches wide. But I will be reducing some width to make a more oval cross section shape.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20131207_114129_zpsb2d8f5cd.jpg)
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I'll try to post some more pictures of the pull saw jig later. It was a spur of the moment thing, and I used my chop saw to cut a 45 degree angle on the base board onto which I built the jig. That way the saw was always 45 degrees to face of my handle (assuming I was able to get the handle face flat)...
Thanks for the comments guys. Still at work >:D >:D Sneaking a few posts in, in between tasks.
Gabe
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Lookin' good Gabe! Thx for sharing.
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Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet! Watching with interest!
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Thanks Arrowind,
Thanks Dan,
Thanks Russ I'll try to get some more pics on the jig. I had to use a level to make sure the jig platfomr and the face of the handle where parallel.
Thanks Bowman and Ohma the handle was a spur of the moment thing, and I hope it works out. Stay tuned.
Thanks Bryce, I sure hope this turns out for you... should be getting some tillering on tonight. Have to tear the roof of my house this weekend (long story). But I will finish a bow for you... ;)
Thanks DBD trapper and palio guy
Thanks David. Plum is the bomb, I hope yours turns out.
Thanks 1442, I hope that Ash bow is holding up for you!
Thanks Carson, I hope so.
Thanks Gus and Medicine Wheel, necessity is the mother of invention :D
Thanks Will, see what I mentioned to Russ as well. The jig is in several pieces now, but I'll see what I can do.
Thanks Smoke, Greg and ADB you guys rock.
Thanks Slim, I've learnt more than I can remember by reading other peoples build alongs.
Thanks RPS and Idaho Matt
Thanks Will. I'd love to see you tackle a character plum, I really dig your character Osage work.
Gabe
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As the stave dried it pulled out of alignment. This presents a potential problem for one main reason: bark. My goal, is to do a bark on the back backing. It is easy to heat treat my bow limbs back into alingmnent, but I have had mixed results with bark on the back bows where I heat treated the limbs. I think there is potential to over heat the cambium and effect is 'holding' ability. But, a bow out of alignment is not gonna last long, so theres not really any option. I heated the limbs and brought the bow back into alignment. (sorry no pics of the first heating process). Fingers cross that the backing holds up.
Here is the bow after heat treating:
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140112_194044_zpsc9a8225c.jpg)
The next step was to prepare the tips for some recurve. My goal with this bow was a moderate-gentle recurve with tips that just start to flex at full draw. My first step was to reduce tip width to about twice my final width, leabing room for corrections after the tips have been curved.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140112_195412_zpsa147edf8.jpg)
Since I'll be boiling the tips I first remove the bark for about 8 inches.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140112_195732_zps50396d32.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140112_195736_zps455bcd30.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140112_200022_zpsf06cb27e.jpg)
Before boiling I apply two things to the bow. One is a layer of super glue at the bark line. I do this to try and prevent steam and water from getting up under the bark.
The second is a layer of shellac which covers the outer third of the limb. This is further moisture protection and helkps avoid unsightly water marks on the finished bow.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140112_200157_zpsf36c3fde.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140112_200242_zpsddef54b5.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140112_195511_zpsf8b547e5.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140112_200428_zpsf16b9b02.jpg)
Than the limb tip is ready to go in the pot. I use an old high walled coffe tin to boil all my limb tips in.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140112_203325_zps93a6c5e8.jpg)
Gabe
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Awesome post - can't wait for more. Learning lots just watching you work! ;D
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Gabe this is great. Everything you've just showed is EXACTLY what I did on my plum bow. Just goes to show yah, great minds think alike :D
Looks good bud! Can't wait to see the final product!:)
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Next step is to prepare my caul to bend in the recurves. As I mentioned I'm shooting for a gentle recurve, but I decided to use my static form and only bend the bow half way. (this is partly laziness since my other form recently broke and I haven't built a new one yet).
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140112_203407_zps1439f9bd.jpg)
I hold my caul in my bench vice to keep the working process off the bench. I notice having the caul in the vice helps to avoid interference while you're making the bend. Nothing worse than getting 1/2 a bend and running into something on your bench uhg. Not that that's ever happened to me ::)).
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140112_203413_zpsad05bc72.jpg)
Since I'm self photographing here, I can't show the process of taking the bow out of the water, putting it on the caul and getting the bend. It helps to do a lot of dry runs and practice timing yourself. I generally want to get everything in place and achieve the bend in 60 seconds or less. If you take to long and the wood cools you run the risk if excessive splitting. I use two tricks when I working by myself. The first is a zip tie to hold the bow in place while I prepare the clamps. Its like an extra hand. I also tape a long strap to my caul which runs around the back of the bow and onto the belly over the bend. This helps avoid lifting splinters. Although I still get splinters sometimes. That's one reason you leave a little extra material on the tips (both thickness and width).
Here's the stave in the caul. Notice the zip tie on the bottom of the caul (easy to tighten with 1 hand while you hold the bow). Also the electrical taped strap.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140112_213606_zps328438e0.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140112_213617_zps5ab08fba.jpg)
As you can see I only achieved about 2/3 of the total bend that I would have used if I was going for a classic static. I did this assuming that i would get about 25% spring back as well.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140112_213612_zpsd2268b71.jpg)
Gabe
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After the bow comes off the caul, I like to use dry heat to lock in the final shape and make any corrections needed.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140116_085621_zpse3f97b5b.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140116_085626_zpscd7415e1.jpg)
Here's what the curves look like after dry heat and a little shaping
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140119_142402_zpsf2558465.jpg)
My next step is to glue on the overlays. For this I use my trusty pull saw
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140122_153700_zpsd03d74e3.jpg)
I've got some nice rosewood blocks. I cut out the rough triangle shape to reduce the amount of shaping I'll have to do once the overlays are glued on.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140124_214817_zpsaf36076e.jpg)
I try as hard as I can to get perfectly flat mating surfaces. I used my belt sander to finish the surfaces on the bow and the overlay.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140124_214805_zps5c459724.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140124_214833_zpsb0823920.jpg)
I wrap the overlay in electrical tape and use a hand clamp for the tip. I feel like electrical tape give good even pressure and its easy to install. I glued the overlay with TB3.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140122_155258_zpsf466d8f0.jpg)
After 24 hours I pop of the tape and clamp
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140125_220248_zps3c89049c.jpg)
Gabe
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It's like watching Santa make your present.
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It's like watching Santa make your present.
;D ;D ;D
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That handle is too cool.
Nice bow so far!
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Looking great Gabe. We have the same two burner hot plate. I found mine outside an old rundown house out here. I talked to the owner of the property and asked him if he would mind if I had it. He looked at me a little crazy but said okay. I plugged it in and it still worked. It had to be sitting outside for at least five years. It's a great one. Still working today :)
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very very cool, thanks for posting this. keep em coming
chuck
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You calling me an old, fat elf Bryce? O:)
Thanks guys.
Here's some pics of shaping the overlays.
First I cut off excess material with the pull saw,
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140125_220831_zps48242c14.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140125_220826_zps4b182bf7.jpg)
Than I taper the sides the using my smaller Nicholson file, and draw the rough shape. After that its the Nicholson, and the cabinet scraper all the way.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140125_221140_zpsc3412694.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140125_222009_zps85bb2e6b.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140125_223327_zps5a59a5f7.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140126_210559_zpsd342d8b5.jpg)
I draw the nock onto the tips in pencil. But for my initial tillering I only cut nocks into the back of the tip, not down the sides.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140126_212126_zpsbd651055.jpg)
I make my initial cuts with a coping saw. And finish the nocks with a narrow chainsaw file.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140126_212149_zpsc9cc9d88.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140126_212300_zps9aa240c6.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140126_213059_zps4fc9a218.jpg)
Gabe
Gabe
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Always interesting to watch another guy building a bow!
Thanks for posting!
Looks good so far
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Great work going on here. Like the way you do your string nocks.
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Looking great man
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Doing a great job. Keep it coming, good thread.
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Awesome buildalong, I'm lovin every bit of it. The inlay was awesome.
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Very impressing so far especially the bark baking! It really looks great
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Great build along.
Incredibly ingenious I think, the way you solved the checking in the handle.
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Very nice build along and some great ideas. I'm learning allot! Thank you for taking the extra time to do the build along.
Mark
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This is great info. I gathered 4 Purple leaf plum saplings this fall and got a line on a few more so will be watching this close. Love that handle Ross. Marco
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did yall hear that slight explosion,,i think it was the sound of 1000's of lightbulbs exploding...heard if when i got to tje handle fix...have a feeling it wont be the last time that is seen or used!!! that was too cool!!!! 8)
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Thanks Simson, I agree.
Thanks Ohma, When I found out about the coping saw thing it saved me hours on the nocks.
Thanks Matt, Yeah I found that old burner in the house about a year after we moved in. I was stoked and so was the wife (cause I don't use the kitchen stuff anymore)...
Thanks Gsulfridge
Thanks Toomany,
Thanks Adams, We'll see how the backing turns out. I'm a bit worried about he heat treating, but plum bark is pretty tenacious stuff. It might work out.
Thank Neuse
Thanks MSD65. I've learned so much from buildalongs. But this one isn't nearly up to par with many... I just wanted tp share the process, and the phone is any easy way to do it.
Thanks DuBois, You will not regret using PLP. It is hands down my favorite bow wood. But watch out, its addicting.
Thanks 4dog. I don't think thy inlay was original, there's nothing new under the sun ;)
Sorry for the delay in pics. I Unforuntally I had to put a roof on our house this weekend. So I falling a bit behind.
Gabe
Gabe
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After getting the tips roughed out, I do some final work on the limb thickness before prepping for long string tillering.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140126_215400_zps58b5e119.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140126_215354_zpsfb0332bb.jpg)
From this point on its only the cabinet scraper and a finer Nicholson for the rest of the tiller.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140126_221122_zps77deed12.jpg)
Here she is on the tree, ready for long string.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140126_222519_zps68c45cfc.jpg)
I try to go very slow, often flipping the bow so I can find any hidden unevenness in limb bending. One thing you can't show in pictures is the limb movement as the bow starts to flex... Limb movement is something that I think is more valuable than a snapshot, in helping to judge tiller. Others have stated this in the past and I really agree moreand more as I make more bows.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140126_222801_zps602bf015.jpg)
Here the bow is showing some stiffness in both outer limbs (Upper limb to the left)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140126_222813_zpscdc5f233.jpg)
Lower limb to the left
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140126_224035_zps08aaa5a6.jpg)
When you're tillering a deflexed bow, I think its important that the inner limbs still need to work. Leaving them too stiff and making your outer limbs do all the work, can cause big problems that don't show up till later in the tillering process. And by then a lot of the damage is already done.
A little more work and the bow is just about ready to brace (Sorry for the fuzzy pic).
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140128_210602_zpscd78d64e.jpg)
Here is the set picked up during long string tillering (maybe a 1/4 inch, but its there. I rarely experience no-set tillering).
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140128_210553_zps5ad7e09f.jpg)
The next step is to twist up a string... and get ready for the first brace (always a gut wrencher ;D).
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140128_210948_zps718519ce.jpg)
More to come whenever I can...
Gabe
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Looking good gabe, I'm going to have to try some plumb, Bub
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Looking great Gabe. I just went and got some plum yesterday. We will see how it goes
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Looking saweet!
I think 'no set tillering' is a little ambiguous title. 'Less set tillering' would be more appropriate.
I've got the next to days off hopefully I can catch up :D
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Looking good, Gabe.
Thanks for doing all the pics - great stuff!
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OK, is that a gut string? Or art sinew?
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Good news Gabe! I got started on yours today. But instead of teasing you over the interweb I'll keep it a secret ;) ok maybe one pic.....
(http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh544/bryceott/380C6540-6EB4-408C-B6C9-E29E2D9B990F.jpg) (http://s1251.photobucket.com/user/bryceott/media/380C6540-6EB4-408C-B6C9-E29E2D9B990F.jpg.html)
-Pinecone:)
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holy crud!!! that is a crazy bend
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Good news Gabe! I got started on yours today. But instead of teasing you over the interweb I'll keep it a secret ;) ok maybe one pic.....
(http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh544/bryceott/380C6540-6EB4-408C-B6C9-E29E2D9B990F.jpg) (http://s1251.photobucket.com/user/bryceott/media/380C6540-6EB4-408C-B6C9-E29E2D9B990F.jpg.html)
-Pinecone:)
HOLY MOTHER OF HOOKS!!!!!
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My thoughts exaclty
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Lookin real good Gabe! To bad Bryce is making a walking cane instead of a bow for ya, oh well... :laugh: :o
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Good news Gabe! I got started on yours today. But instead of teasing you over the interweb I'll keep it a secret ;) ok maybe one pic.....
(http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh544/bryceott/380C6540-6EB4-408C-B6C9-E29E2D9B990F.jpg) (http://s1251.photobucket.com/user/bryceott/media/380C6540-6EB4-408C-B6C9-E29E2D9B990F.jpg.html)
-Pinecone:)
Good Lawd!
Are you building a Cane? >:D
That is an Awesomely Agressive Bend For Sure...
Can't wait to see that one bend.
Best Regards,
-gus
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Hey! When he gets old, he'll thank me ;D
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Good lord Bryce. That hook is giving me performance anxiety. Domn it, I'll have to throw away this piece of junk and start a new one that takes 3 guys to string. >:D >:D >:D
Gabe
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No! That plum is absolutely lovely everything and more than I was exspecting!:)
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No! That plum is absolutely lovely everything and more than I was exspecting!:)
A fine example of an addict! >:D >:D >:D He couldnt stand to have you throw away that bow which means you done good 8) 8) 8)
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Well in the last 10 days, I tore the roof off my house and put a new one on. What a fiasco! Now I can get back to building this bow.
I got her to the short string. Here's the bow at first brace, keeping the brace height low.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140128_211159_zps9e44834e.jpg)
I pulled the bow out to 15" and it seemed a little stiff on the left limb and both outter limbs.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140128_211206_zps25921145.jpg)
After some scraping the left limb is starting to come around but still a bit stiff.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140128_211212_zpsa0712af7.jpg).
Here, I noticed that the string alignment was off again. I think this will be a recurring theme with this bow. It's stubborn. It might be difficult to correct since the alignment issues are near the handle, and through the handle, rather then in the mid or outer limbs...
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140128_211727_zps865d5eed.jpg)
Anyway, back to the dry heat. I suspended a weight (5 gallon bucket full of salt), of the bow tip bringing it about 1/2 inch past my desired limb correction.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140128_212710_zps43fe6702.jpg)
Applied a little olive oil to the limb,
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140128_212526_zpsfb6a8b5c.jpg)
And slowly heated the limb, keeping the heat gun 4 to 5 inches away from the bow and trying to avoid darkening the surface too much (especially since I'm near my finished limb thickness and I don't have too much 'gaming' room).
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140128_212720_zps5d716eb5.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140128_214950_zpsf4f69edc.jpg)
Took about 20 minutes to do the limb, and than I left it with the weight on overnight.
Gabe
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Here she is after string alignment. In this shot the bow is drawn to 52# @ 20 inches. Still a hair stiff on the left, mid limb, but getting close. Trying to keep the outter limbs a little stiff. I like the profile of this bow.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140129_220748_zps22c0dc1a.jpg)
String follow now, vs before tillering to date.
(pre tillering)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140126_222519_zps68c45cfc.jpg)
(now -- immediately unstrung)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/rossfactor/20140129_220935_zpscc947cb1.jpg)
She's picked up about an inch of set :(, hopefully it won't effect performance too much. I haven't done any heat treating to reduce string follow (only to fix string alignment), and I'm trying to keep heat treating to a minimum to preserve the durability of the bark backing... we shall see what happens when the bow gets out to 27".
Gabe
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if you put the heat gun 2''(instead of 4'') from the belly you can get a good shallow heat treating. to a very LIGHT brown, maybe even add a bit of reflex. and the heat shouldnt get deep enough or hot enough to effect the bark :D
that what i did to adjust a funky bit on my most recent plum bow.
looks good bro! i cant tell you how stoked i am!
-Pinecone
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Yeah I agree Bryce. I was noticing though that even with the 4" distance it was getting pretty warm through the back. It'll probably be fine, but you never know till you get her to full draw :) And sometimes even after that. I'm considering heating some reflex back in, but I'm not sure... I like aesthetics and performance of the inner limb deflex, with stiff outer limbs profile... Hope top work on it tonight.
Gabe
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Looking real nice Gabe. I'm diggin that r/d profile its taken from the set and thinking that won't effect the performance more than a tiny bit if at all. Probably make it sweeter on release too. Keep at it and keep the pics coming, Pineconers
getting a nice bow there.
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Looking real nice Gabe. I'm diggin that r/d profile its taken from the set and thinking that won't effect the performance more than a tiny bit if at all. Probably make it sweeter on release too. Keep at it and keep the pics coming, Pineconers
getting a nice bow there.
You got that right!!!
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Looking great Gabe. I'm diggin that profile. I don't think it's enough set to make a huge difference right now.
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Aaarg, got a little set back. Checked string alignment this morning... its off center again, I lost about 80% of the correction I heated in... Also a small glue line separation is occurring in the handle inlay... ??? >:(
Well. In my experience the most finicky staves can make the best bows. I will post pics of the fix process as I go. Starting to work on it tonight and this weekend. I might repair the handle first since I think some of the string alignment issues are in the handle area and I want it solid and glued in before I start heat correcting the limb... Sorry about he delays Pinecone... I'm doing my best.
Gabe
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Heck Idc. I'll wait years. No big deal :) I'm enjoying the show.