Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bbell on December 23, 2013, 07:00:16 pm
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Hello All,
I don't post much at all but read the forum almost everyday. I have a question for you folks. I really like the looks of the short narrow bendy handle bows. I have lots of vine maple around my place. How narrow could I go for a 58" vine maple? I was going to try and make one without fades that is same size for middle third. I am hoping to make a hunting weight bow of about 55lbs. Would love to hear your thoughts on dimensions. Thanks.
Brandon
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I've got a 65" long 1" wide vine maple fulling forty five pounds that only took an inch of set, so I think if you keep it around one and a half all the way through you should be alright.
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Bendy handle can be a heck of a lot shorter than stiff handle- the handle working adds about 6-7" working limb compared to a stiff handle(4" handle, 1- 1 1/2 inch fades). Which adds up to the limbs also being under less stress, as bend in the handle bows are usually overbuilt. I have absolutly no experiance with VM, and have never seen, touched, or worked it.
Draw length @28, you are pushing it for that design. Stiff handle- no way.
Go for 1.75 inches and tell us how it goes- based off of rock maple.
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I would say go 1.25"-1.5" at widest. Back it with rawhide if you draw over 28". Just to be on the safe side because 29" is the usual limit for a bendy handle of 58" length. But if you back it you can make a bow that isn't bendy handle that is 52" long for a 29" draw. I've seen it done before. You could probably go 30" if you tiller good but if it is a shabby job or not amazing 28" draw us a max with out a backing.
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Thanks for the response guys. I draw 27" so I was thinking 58 or 60" would give me some leeway. I just need to cut a VM that doesn't have a huge amount of twist. :) After Christmas I will get out and find one and get it roughed out. I think I will try 1.25". Should the handle be the same width or should I go to 1" or smaller? 1.25" seems pretty wide for a handle but I don't have that much experience yet. Thanks.
Brandon
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If it is bend in the handle, it will have to be 1.25" AKA the handle is the widest spot on the bow of a bend in the handle and it tapers from there. It does seem a bit big but you can build up the thickness to make it feel good even though it is very wide. Should make a nice bow and be sure to keep us updated!
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If it is bend in the handle, it will have to be 1.25" AKA the handle is the widest spot on the bow of a bend in the handle and it tapers from there. It does seem a bit big but you can build up the thickness to make it feel good even though it is very wide. Should make a nice bow and be sure to keep us updated!
you can exchange width for thickness and keep the bendy handle. I didn't have to on my one inch vine maple, but do it all the time on my short bows, including the one in my current buildalong.
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I would make the handle 1 1/8th wide and then taper into working limbs of around 1 1/4 to 1 3/8ths. You don't HAVE to keep the width through the handle justy make darn sure everything blends into the next bit!
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I don't know about vine maple, but I have made a couple of osage bendy handles that are 15/16" at the widest point. 58" tip to tip with no backing and #50 at 28". I just sent off a bendy handle eastern woodlands out of black locust that is 60" tip to tip under an inch wide at its widest point that is #45 at 28".
I also did a BBI that was less than an inch wide at its widest point 62" tip to tip and #60 at 28".
All of them have rectangle cross sections and a flat belly and have around 3/8" tips.
I too really like the short bendy handles that are narrow, hope this helps.
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Yeah that does help. I am curious to see how the wood reacts to that stress. Hopefully in the next couple weeks I will be able to go out and harvest some oceanspray. I have seen some pretty small bows pull good hunting weight. So ,any ideas and wants, so little time. :D
Brandon