Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: woodswalker on December 07, 2013, 03:46:15 am
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Almost done with my little osage. Was wondering about sealing it. Is it Tru Oil that is used for this or is it something else.
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Tru oil is the good stuff.
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I use Tru-Oil on all my bows, no matter what wood used. 5 or 6 layers with a rubdown with 0000steel wool between coats . If I use it on a hunting bow I give it a quick spray of satin poly to cut the shine.
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I use linseed oil for a more traditional look. Then I put beeswax to cut some of the shine and still have the old indian bow look. Works good. No probs with rain cutting into the finish and you can buff the bees wax for a shine.
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Is Tru-oil available at sporting goods stores or paint shops?
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Ive only found it at gun shops.. I recently used tung oil.. Its much cheaper than tru oil and gives a great finish... Brian
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I buy it online. even with shipping it's usually cheaper than at the store.
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My other hobby is building flintlock longrifles, so I've had a little experience with wood finishes. Tru oil is a very hard, on the surface finish. Very plastic looking. I like the "in the wood" finishes better. There are many out there. Most are wipe on, wipe off finishes. They give the wood a nice glow, as opposed to that plastic shine. They also allow easy repair of scratches. Just wipe on another coat, and wipe it off. The scratches that do show up don't scratch white, because they don't scratch "through" the finish.
Formby's is a good over the counter, but many better at Woodcraft, or on line stores. I personally like Chambers Traditional Oil Finish.
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Tru oil is a combo of natural oils including linseed oil. That "plastic shine" comes from polyurethane or urethanes and other polymer composed finishes.
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So 5 or 6 coats of Tru oil if I use it. What if I use the linseed oil , how much would I use for one bow and how do I apply it?
By the way thanks guys for the help.
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Linseed oil is not a finish. It is an oil. It never truly dries, even with driers added. It is also water permeable.
NOT a good finish by its self. That's why a wax or some other sealer is need
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I found my Tru Oil at my local "sports and outdoors store". Not sure if its ok to mention the name here or not. But it was over in the hunting section in with the gun cleaning and finishing supplies. Bottles were kinda small but enough to do a bow with.
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The plastic shine in tru oil is from the natural oils that have had driers added to the finish to make them hard, and sit on top of the wood.
Set a glass of water on a tru oil stock, and you'll have a permanent white ring. The linseed in it never dries.
Tru oil was and still is the standard for fun stocks for years and years. There are many others out there as well, Linspeed, Pilkinton, etc. they all use the same artificial driers to achieve that shine. To mellow out that shine, you must use pumice and rotten stone to get that "hand rubbed" finish. OR you can just hand rub a nice finish that becomes part of the wood.
Don't mean to ruffle feathers, but this is the truth. Linseed oil is NOT a finish, it's an oil. Gotta add driers and hardeners to make it work.
A spar varnish in my opinion, would make a better outdoor finish. After all, it's meant to be used on boats.
JMHO!
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While I definately agree with Dane that linseed oil is just an oil like so many traditional finishes, and i dont personally care for it... Its still a finish. Like all natural oil finishes, it is high maintenance.. you dont do it once and forget about it. Just like in quality antiques, you re-apply it as needed and IMO hand rubbing is the best way. We have been spoiled by modern finish with hardeners( im glad) but its not the only way.. I got to admit the sexiest gun stocks ive seen were done with linseed oil....but they do leach oil somewhat.... Brian
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While I definately agree with Dane that linseed oil is just an oil like so many traditional finishes, and i dont personally care for it... Its still a finish. Like all natural oil finishes, it is high maintenance.. you dont do it once and forget about it. Just like in quality antiques, you re-apply it as needed and IMO hand rubbing is the best way. We have been spoiled by modern finish with hardeners( im glad) but its not the only way.. I got to admit the sexiest gun stocks ive seen were done with linseed oil....but they do leach oil somewhat.... Brian
Yes! All traditional finishes were bear fat and stuff like that which is JUST an oil apparently but it isn't a varnish where it is spray and forget, you have to rub it on and keep on doing it, which I enjoy. Read the witchery of archery and Maurice talks about rubbing their bows with oil. I personally wax and oil mine for whatever added protection and appearance it gives my bow. I like to be able to say everything about the bow is natural and love wiping my bow down, like you have to clean the bore of your gun. It also lets you see the state your bow is in, a check up, and I think if it gets soaked in, you are waterproofing the wood and not putting some "plastic" over it to waterproof it. Makes it feel more safe to get in rain, I think
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It all depends on personal taste and the environment in which you live or will your bow. Google the properties of polymers and oils and you will learn everything you need to know. Oils absorb into the wood polymers lay on top. I have used a danish oil polymer mix for a hand rub finish that's hard and beautiful. Holds up well against abuse from children but I've never used it on a bow. True oil is easy to apply easy to repair and pretty resilient against abuse. Oils are beautiful but don't have the same protective qualities. Try them all!