Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DQ on November 20, 2013, 11:26:58 am
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I've never worked with ipe and have no experience with it. How does it compare to Osage or hickory as far as using it in bamboo backed bows? Is it physically heavier, oilier, harder, softer, etc? Can bow layout and dimensions be about the same as Osage? Tip width the same as Osage on a finished bamboo backed bow?
Thanks for any information. This forum is a wonderful place to gain knowledge from experienced guys who have actually "been there and done that". Where else can a person learn so much so quickly?
Have a great day!
Darryl
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Nothing compares to osage but ipe is a very god bow wood. It is very oily and some folks are very allergic to it so be warned.
Ipe wants to be narrow say 1" to 1 3/8" wide at the most. It handles boo backing very well. I think you could lay it out just like osage but keep it narrow.
See Brice's(pinecone) post below about Brazilian Cherry(aka ipe)
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Im in Pat's boat.
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I've never had much luck gluing a backing on ipe because it was so oily, but if you can clean it first really well with acetone, it should be fine. I made a hickory backed ipe once, and I treated the dimensions just like I would a solid hickory bow, and it came out a bit stronger, so you can start your dimensions out somewhat narrower. Maybe by 1/4" to 1/2" narrower, this stuff is tough!
My hickory backed ipe bow exploded in the house when I was attempting to string it to show it off to my wife - it was so loud that the dog peed in two rooms at once! So, be warned, get your ipe CLEAN before you glue!
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Use a good epoxy glue, not wood glue.
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I never had a problem gluing boo or hickory backings to ipe. I used TBIII or Urac all with good results.
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I never had a problem gluing boo or hickory backings to ipe. I used TBIII or Urac all with good results.
How do you get yours clean? Acetone and a scrub brush? I'd love to use ipe again, but I've STILL got the scars from where mine committed suicide on me, so I'm a little skiddish...
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Its been a while since I built one but I think I just wiped it down with acetone. Don't wait too long after using the acetone though. Just long enough for the acetone to evaporate. I think if you wait longer the acetone actually pulls the oil up from inside the wood. This is only my theory. ;)
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"dog peed in two rooms at once" LOL! Those words say more than a thousand pictures!
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"dog peed in two rooms at once" LOL! Those words say more than a thousand pictures!
Oh, that's nothing... the cat jumped so hard that he bounced off two walls before hitting the ground...
It was literally as loud as a rifle shot in my living room! (and yes... regrettably, that has happend too.) Oh, ours is an interesting household, and unfortunately, some noises that happen around here require us to buy new furniture.
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I've had good results with ipe and bamboo. I used resourcinol based two pack glue to fix them together. The key is to freshly sand the mating surfaces and wipe down very well with plenty of acetone, applying the glue as soon as wood has dried afterwards. Be careful not to clamp too tightly and use elastic straps / bicycle innertubes if at all possible - using quick clamps or G-clamps can lead to glue starvation in localised areas of the joint.
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See Brice's(pinecone) post below about Brazilian Cherry(aka ipe)
Brazilian cherry is not ipé. Brazilian cherry is another name for jatoba.
Ipé is sometimes also called Brazilian walnut (due to the color similarity).
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before i glued on my boo i took a light toothing plane to it to give the glue some room and degrease with acetone. probably a little overkill.
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Your's is a beautiful bow, Bryce! Your post made me think about trying a BBI.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions, information, and the laughs. I appreciate it.
Darryl
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Also...I apologize to everyone for asking a "dumb" question. One look at the search option gave me all kinds of information. Thanks!
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The first time you work with ipé, you'll be amazed by how stiff it is. You'll likely overbuilt the first bow and have two other bows worth of ipé laying on the floor in wood shavings.
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The first time you work with ipé, you'll be amazed by how stiff it is. You'll likely overbuilt the first bow and have two other bows worth of ipé laying on the floor in wood shavings.
Yep! Ripped my to 1 1/4" now I'm thinking that's about right but! I could've been 1/8" thinner.
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I was was taught to NEVER use acetone on oily wood because it just draws out more oil. I have made bows, spearguns, and furniture all with stuff like ipe, teak, etc and have never had a glue or epoxy failure. I just sand well, NO toothing or any deep scratching then just blow off with compressed air and glue right away.
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I was was taught to NEVER use acetone on oily wood because it just draws out more oil. I have made bows, spearguns, and furniture all with stuff like ipe, teak, etc and have never had a glue or epoxy failure. I just sand well, NO toothing or any deep scratching then just blow off with compressed air and glue right away.
+1
Titebond 3 with feshly prepared surfaces than mate perfectly. Sanded to 80 grit. I use a drum sander for final sanding. I've never had any problems using these methods.
Resourcinol is a very good bow making glue. It gives you a dark purple glue line that can be used to make some interesting colour combos.
However i've also tried using acetone...with no glue failures. I would like to read more about acetone/gluing/oils. It would be worth doing some tesing on this.
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I never had a problem gluing boo or hickory backings to ipe. I used TBIII or Urac all with good results.
How do you get yours clean? Acetone and a scrub brush? I'd love to use ipe again, but I've STILL got the scars from where mine committed suicide on me, so I'm a little skiddish...
I make a good amount of these anymore. I use tb3 as well. And I don't use acetone or anything, I just wipe em down with a clean damp rag a bunch of times. Haven't had a problem (yet). Make sure your gluing surfaces are flat, check with a straight edge or ruler, sometimes belt sanders leave a crown, especially if the belt is old and lower grit like 36 I find. After I flatten them with 36 grit, I have to re-flatten with 80 grit to make sure they are good and flat. Also, you gotta clamp it just right, you have to use a good amount of pressure but not enough to squeeze all the glue out. I prefer bike inner tubes cut up into rubber bands.
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I generally heat the IPE with a heat gun, then wipe with acetone. Figure if there is any oil it should make it easier to get off will a little added heat.
VMB