Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: PEARL DRUMS on November 13, 2013, 12:55:40 pm
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I stole this idea from my very good friend, Paul "NoCal" Robertson. Im not sure just how he does it exactly, but I know what he uses. I never used to build the backside up on my bow grips up. After doing a few this way, Im loving it. I bought a package of 1/4 x 4 x 4 cork squares at Hobby Lobby for les than $5. I lay the cork on my bench, then lay the bow back down on the cork and trace it out. Then I use a sharp edge to cut the shape out, oversized a bit. I use TBIII wood glue to adhere the cork to the back. Once I get the cork sitting pretty I wrap it with an Ace bandage to be sure it conforms to the bow. After a day of drying I use my 4-1 rasp and a sanding block to shape it. The best part for me is the flexibility of the cork. It allows a full grip on working handle bows and that is nice as far as comfort is concerned.
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I do similar on wooden "Turk" bows where I fake the reverse riser typical of that style but allow the grip to work slightly to maximise drawlength. I use thick leather soaked in glue.
A reverse handle can minimise residual handshock by letting the handle sit more ergonomically in the hand.
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Nice job on the handle Pearly! Haven't tried the cork yet. Been using some 1/4" veggie tan leather scarps I picked up at our farm supply store for cheap. Glued together/down with contact cement makes quick work of it.........Art
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bubby has some good ideas sometimes lol
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The cork works down so nicely with a sanding block, I tried leather once and didn't like that aspect of it. But they both seem to work the same.
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did you soak the cork first?
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How does it look as a finished part of the bow? That is my only concern with the idea, how to finish it.
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No I didn't soak the cork Jordo, just glued it down. And don't call me a cork soaker again!
Scott the leather will totally conceal the cork.
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I do the same with thick veg tanned leather. It really helps a bulbous fit your hand well.
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Saturate the leather with Epoxy or superglue and it will finish like wood.
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Im sure it does PatM. This cork is just too easy and clean to avoid.
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i used cork once and it wanted to fall apart really easy just using a razor blade to trim it.
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And don't call me a cork soaker again!
lmao hahaha good one. im gonna start using that again.
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PD. I've got an old Keasey yew bow and he used cork wrapped handles on all of his bows that I've seen. It makes a very comfortable grip. He may have used an underlay that looks to me like rawhide before wrapping the cork around the handle.
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Hey bubby....you suing for plagiarism? :laugh:
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Hey bubby....you suing for plagiarism? :laugh:
heck no, I just stole one of your bow layouts, sometimes on these grips I'll wrap it with upholstery thread and then soak that in runny ca glue but its not really necessary and its a pain, this works real good when you have a flat back
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I do the same with thick veg tanned leather. It really helps a bulbous fit your hand well.
Yup, I think I stole that from you, haha. The veg tan leather works great too, works like wood.
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I like cork for this and also for building up a shelf. Like Pearly said, it is easy to shape. Some of the more coarse cork tends to crumble when trying to shape with rasp or blade, but if you saturate it with some thinned wood glue and let it dry for a day, then the same stuff shapes up real nice.
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I like to build up the back of my handle with a couple layers of rawhide super glued down and then shaped. The cork looks nice too. I should try it some time. I like Carson's cork handles.
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I've been doing the exact same thing lately on board bows. Love the cork!
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It can crumble if you get after it too hard. It will stay together with light, careful strokes. A layer of TB after the finished shaping isn't a bad plan either.