Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: yebon on November 04, 2013, 08:51:29 am
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I was gluing my hickory backing on my red oak board and i did not put enough clamps on and there are a few places where there are gaps..Is there anything i can do to fix this. I do not have pictures now but can get later. They are small just enough to get a small blade in. This is my first bow so i am learning. Thanks for any advise
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What kind of glue ?
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the glue i am using is Tightbond III
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stuff the gaps with saw dust and more tb3. ought to work enough still for a first bow... as long as its not a heavy bow
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Great i will try that...thank you i was hoping i could salvage this bow or at least attempt to salvage it.
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stuff the gaps with saw dust and more tb3. ought to work enough still for a first bow... as long as its not a heavy bow
I disagree. TB3 is not a gap filling glue. This type of glue bonds at the molecular level and needs flat perfectly matching surfaces. Ditch the clamps and use inner tubes for glue up... cheaper and better.
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well if its not perfect try super glue maybe? thinner stuff and it fills in gaps ok. i have not had an issue with tb3 not bonding well but then again i have not had this specific situation either. hope i didnt make ya ruin a bow!
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#1...where exactly are the gaps? If its in a stiff handle area,or several inches from the tips it might be OK?
#2...pics? Your definition of a blade might be a pin needle razor edge or a machete? Big difference....and how long are the gaps?
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#1...where exactly are the gaps? If its in a stiff handle area,or several inches from the tips it might be OK?
#2...pics? Your definition of a blade might be a pin needle razor edge or a machete? Big difference....and how long are the gaps?
have any pics that will help, the good thing about tb is you can get it to release with a heat gun and clean it up and reglue
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i have to work but i will get pics up tomorrow..ty for all you guys for your hlep
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Same thing happened to me but I had tb2. Tb3 doesn't stick to itself good so I would go super glue. Gorilla glue would be awesome if you could get it in there. It expands so it would fill every crevice. If not, runny super glue wood be best.
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I've used TB and it's not gap filling. I used it on a couple glue ups but now Iam faithfully using 'Unibond 800' which is gap filling.
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I use it all the time with no problems you just have to have good flat surfaces and I use tubes instead if clamps
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Have you cut out the bow's outline yet? If not, its likely that when you do, the problem will be removed or at least lessened.
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Superglue is strong but very brittle. So is the polyurethane in Gorilla glue. He needs something strong but flexible OR a do over.
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Heat it up and pull it apart !
Clean it up and do it right this time !!
Guy
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I vote for a mulligan! Use a caul on the backing side of the glue up to keep the pressure even. Quick and easy! Start with a straight one , or only slightly reflexed to get the "feel" for it. If you do use the inner tube thing, I would suggest not spiraling around the glue up. In my experience ,it creates more tension on the one edge.
What is your set up for this Adam? Any pics?
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I vote for a mulligan! If you do use the inner tube thing, I would suggest not spiraling around the glue up. In my experience ,it creates more tension on the one edge.
What is your set up for this Adam? Any pics?
If you make your backing strip close to final dimension and your belly core wider and almost full width to the ends it won't grab at the edges and buckle the backing strip up...and if you dont spiral it around,then how are you gonna wrap it? ??? When you do wrap just be conscious each pass to maintain good even side to side pressure... Then after you unwrap it you can cut it out close to your backing strip,then clean up to it with hand tools from there on...
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I vote for a mulligan! If you do use the inner tube thing, I would suggest not spiraling around the glue up. In my experience ,it creates more tension on the one edge.
What is your set up for this Adam? Any pics?
If you make your backing strip close to final dimension and your belly core wider and almost full width to the ends it won't grab at the edges and buckle the backing strip up...and if you dont spiral it around,then how are you gonna wrap it? ??? When you do wrap just be conscious each pass to maintain good even side to side pressure... Then after you unwrap it you can cut it out close to your backing strip,then clean up to it with hand tools from there on...
2x4 with nails on opposite edges. zig zag fashion. Do you have some pics of your set up? Every attempt I made trying to use the spiral method ,left me less than impressed. Always wound up with more tension on the downhill side, and less pressure in between , even when spaced close together. I'm a cabinetmaker ,and I have glue more than my share of wood together, but am always looking for new, better, faster , cheaper, easier....... After a couple attempts, I had abandoned this method and chalked it up to urban legend. Wasted time adds up to lost money very quickly for me.
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I got some rubber membrane from work and cut the strips 1" wide and long enough to start in the middle to the tip and double back to the middle .Imho if the backing is to thin to start it's gonna want to buckle no matter what you do if using a tb types of glue.
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sorry lostarrow but just because it doesn't work for you doesn't make it an "urban legend" as you put it, I do all my glueups wrapping tubes with great success, not everything works for everyone but that don't mean it won't work, bub
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I vote for a mulligan! If you do use the inner tube thing, I would suggest not spiraling around the glue up. In my experience ,it creates more tension on the one edge.
What is your set up for this Adam? Any pics?
If you make your backing strip close to final dimension and your belly core wider and almost full width to the ends it won't grab at the edges and buckle the backing strip up...and if you dont spiral it around,then how are you gonna wrap it? ??? When you do wrap just be conscious each pass to maintain good even side to side pressure... Then after you unwrap it you can cut it out close to your backing strip,then clean up to it with hand tools from there on...
2x4 with nails on opposite edges. zig zag fashion. Do you have some pics of your set up? Every attempt I made trying to use the spiral method ,left me less than impressed. Always wound up with more tension on the downhill side, and less pressure in between , even when spaced close together. I'm a cabinetmaker ,and I have glue more than my share of wood together, but am always looking for new, better, faster , cheaper, easier....... After a couple attempts, I had abandoned this method and chalked it up to urban legend. Wasted time adds up to lost money very quickly for me.
I have glued literally hundreds of laminated bows using bicycle inner tubes and TB3, and not ONE has been a problem. Obviously, you need to apply EVEN pressure while wrapping. I'm not sure what you're doing.
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GUYS!..... That's what I'm saying! .... What am I doing wrong? Help me out here. I just said it didn't work for me , and am always open to suggestions. That's it!....... I'm going to give it another go.
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No idea what you're doing wrong. It's not nuclear physics. Pull an even amount, rap around, repeat. It's important to pull with the same amount of tension when you're stretching the tubes. Sorry, no offense... I just can't imagine how it's possible to bugger this up. Can you post some pictures?
The other option... do a search on this forum. I know Cam (Cameroo) did a vid and posted it on youtube with the link here. I'm sure you could find it. I taught him, so that's the way I do it. Pretty straight forward stuff.
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No idea what you're doing wrong. It's not nuclear physics. Pull an even amount, rap around, repeat. It's important to pull with the same amount of tension when you're stretching the tubes. Sorry, no offense... I just can't imagine how it's possible to bugger this up. Can you post some pictures?
The other option... do a search on this forum. I know Cam (Cameroo) did a vid and posted it on youtube with the link here. I'm sure you could find it. I taught him, so that's the way I do it. Pretty straight forward stuff.
No offence taken. Now you know why I just didn't bother anymore . Like you said it's not rocket science , so when I had less than acceptable results it was akin to being slapped and called an idiot :-[ >:( . Don't have pictures because It was likely 15-20 years ago that I tried it . Having confirmation from several trustworthy sources now that it does work , both makes me want to try it again and also a little disappointed in myself that I gave up so easily so many years ago and didn't look back.
Bubby : I never said it doesn't work , just that it didn't work for me! I am a very strong believer in trying things and doing things that work best for each individual. I've trained a lot of people over the years and the first thing I always say is "This is how I do it. If you find a better way or something that works better for you, I'd be more than interested in learning. There's always room for improvement."
I'm addicted to learning. That's why I come on here. Thanks guys!
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that's cool, it's just when the term urban myth gets thrown out there it comes across like it's a myth
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No ,no Bubby . It was long before anything useful could be found on the internet ( still in it's infancy ). Remember dialup? Pre google ? With no reliable source of info , and a couple of less than satisfactory attempts, ....That's when I chalked it up to fanciful myth. It sure has come a long way since then , hasn't it?
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No problemo , none at all
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Never taken as a problem ,Bubby. With English being my second language and sarcasm being my first, I sometimes have a hard time conveying the written message ;)
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First you need to do one wrap clockwise then one anti clockwise. Otherwise you are putting a twisting force on the whole seebang.
If you are using a thin backing then it's a good idea to make a thicker, say 1/2 inch, strip to go on top of the backing to ensure even pressure across the whole backing or else you may well end up with a crown that you didn't want! Of course wrap this extra strip with clingfilm or similar.....
Also it's essential to use a form imo.
Have another try using these tips and i'm sure it will work for you.
I've done many glue-ups this way and you will get flawless gluelines.
Also use a drum sander to prepare the lams if possible.
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That sounds like the problems I was remembering , Mike. I was likely trying to lam a thin piece . Not sure what it would have been , but likely thinner than the 1/8 backing. Sounds like a good set up to me. I'll have to give it another go.