Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Blaflair2 on November 02, 2013, 10:17:16 am
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This is a takedown in making. 62" ttt. I was wondering about the little twist it has. I figure on getting it bending and seeing what it needs. If I have to take it out or not. The billets are from one log. Ones a belly split the other is the sapwood side. Both have matching natural reflex and twist. Let me know what u think
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Nice looking set of billets and you shouldn't have any problems getting minor correction to make a nice bow.
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I made the sleeve. I'm working on taking out the play. I have one more set but not as symmetrical. Fun project. I started it and got it to floor tiller last night. It's 1 1/4" from fades to 10" from tip the goes to 1/2". As long as my sleeve is good I think it's gonna be sweet.
The sleeve is a closet rod.
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Also the side profile is before the bow was roughed out. Right after I attached sleeves. Post more pics later
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You can easily make prop twist corrections with heat as you advance your tillering. Osage responds nicely. Is your take down sleeve plastic?
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No it's metal.
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Well I didn't like the way the sleeve for together. Now in messing with a different idea. May not make it come apart. I dunno. Kinda bummed. Its looking really good
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Good luck with the coupling sleeve!
As for the side profile??? Oh Lordy my oh my. Treat this one right or the bow gods may just send you a full order of karma with a side of bad juju for the disrespect! I can't wait to see how she turns out.
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I'm trying. Lol. I have it all roughed out and floor tillered. Just trying to lock in my design for the sleeves and if It's coming apart or not
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So here she is with a PVC takedown sleeve. Thinking about reinforcing with f word tape O:)
The side profile is sexy after I took the twist and straightened it a bit. Let me know what u guys think. Specially about the PVC and f word
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A PVC sleeve? Be careful with your eyes and face.
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Also was wondering if the glued on leather would make it a little stronger. So I don't have to use the f word.
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Id skip the plastic sleeves. They are made from brass and steel for some great reasons. Can you splice and glue the billets together?
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My bandsaw is an old turd and kinda wonky. Don't cut much straight lines. Well none actually. I have a piece of steel pipe I was thinking of using. I honestly don't care if it doesn't come apart but I can't afford a good sleeve and didn't wanna fudge this billets up. Something about the bend I couldn't waste. I was thinking of just using the pipe and putting a pin in and glueing it all together. No was also thinking of another idea :
Getting a piece of 3/4" OD and a pice of 3/4" ID copper and two 3/4" ID couplings w/o stops and putting around the 4" piece of 3/4" ID. The use the 2" piece of 3/4" OD for the other part of the sleeve. Would double walled copper work?
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Get a piece of 1 1/2" ID steel pipe. Put it in a vice and flatten it down to your liking. Get some GOOD steel/wood epoxy and make a permanent union.
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There's a little dip in the one limb so it looks like a hinge. I just need to get it bending more towards the handle and it'll come out. The reflex is a pain to tiller.
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For got the pic
Also I got a pipe from work, 1" steel pipe. So I'll just make the billets sole mates. Also what glue do u recommend? Two part epoxy?
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Well I did what pearlie suggested and used a piece of steel pipe and forever mated them. Should be sweet none the less. I probly wouldn't of had it apart much if at all
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wise choice on the steel pipe, that PVC had me nervous.
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Lol it didn't seem that bad. I was gonna reinforce it. But the pipe is fine too. Bow I have a name for it at least. If I fails it's new name will be pipe bomb lol
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Good decision to use steel.
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U guys are why I am here. To tell me if my hair brained scheme would work or not. U say steel, sounds better then PVC m e whoo
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Id skip the plastic sleeves. They are made from brass and steel for some great reasons. Can you splice and glue the billets together?
I agree. PVC will breakdown over time and become brittle. Them when you least expect..........
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Glad ya went with metal instead of plastic ya have to realize there is a lot of force in the handle area just think the limb tips are acting as levers when you draw and put a lot Of force on the handle I don't think the plastic would've took it
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What wall thickness tubing did you use? I'm looking at the picture of the handle and it looks to me like you had to split the tube to make it the right size. Unless you have a substantial wall thickness I would be concerned with that split spreading. If I'm seeing things just ignore me. :)
don
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It wasn't split. 1" steel 1/8" thick. Got it from work. I pinned the limbs. So maybe u see file marks.
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How far do you have it pulling Blaflair? The bend in the pic above looks real good, should be a good performer from the looks of it.
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About 25" or so. Taking it to 30. My scale broke so I'm winging it. Feels like 60 atm
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If it doesnt work out as a bow, you could club some deer down with that beefy handle! After holding it, Im wondering if the weight might reduce hand-shock at all? someone who knows about this please set me straight.
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30" :o ........ Just stop where it's at now and send it to me, I only draw 24" :D
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U wouldn't want this old pile of junk ::)
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So I put the veg ivory on the tips. And yes, :embarassed:it looks like a finger lol. It'll looks better once it's shaped. Enjoy and criticize if need be.
It has cracks in it but very solid still. I was surprised how hard the stuff is. Pretty impressive for a nut.
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I told Santa Claus I want some Taugua nuts for Christmas!!! O:) O:) O:) Those look really kewl!
OneBow
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There's multiple kinds. The one guy in my veg ivory post posted another kind with black dots in it. Looked sweet
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So when I string It the one side is about 1" farther away from the belly than the other limb. It's at a slightly downward angle more than the other outta the pipe. So just lessen the one limb so it's bending more?
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So this is what I mean. It's hard to see in the pic but it's there
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I dont see much. Pull it down 12-15".