Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: CPLSeraphim on October 26, 2013, 11:05:15 am
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I was looking, and trying to find if there was a specific brand finish you guys like to use, or at least for specific woods? Kind of like tightbond three is the preference for glue. I am basically making a red oak board bow for my first, and making 2 at once, one for me and one for my dad. Anyway, They are going to be backed with the faux snakeskin from 3 rivers (My dads diamond back, and mine copperhead) and I have red oak as for the riser as well, and just want to make sure I get the best finish possible, especially for the first 2 bows because I really want to go bow hunting next year, and want to have time to shoot my bow to get proficient before archery season.
So what kind of finish do you guys prefer? If there are different types you prefer for different woods, add it. Thanks again.
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True oil is what I use. It is user friendly and you can touch it up with ease as we'll. it takes a while between coat and IMHO that is it's down side. But if you are getting into making bows without patience you find you will need a lot before you can grow. So the wait between coats is no biggie :).
Matt
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This topic has been discussed many times. There are countless topics to be found that have received many replies in the past. You'll get a lot of reading from this: https://www.google.com/#q=site:www.primitivearcher.com+finishes
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Thanks Idaho, and for DarkSoul, that seems to work better than the forum search. LOL. That is very different from other forums I have been a part of.
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I use linseed oil and beeswax. I rub linseed about 6 coats then I rub beeswax when needed and it makes a very waterproof coating. It also looks nice and is dull for hunting, BUT you can buff it with your sleeve or something and it makes it shiny. I just went hunting today and it rained all day. The bow was really wet and when I got back I just rubbed a cloth on it and it was dry.
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I use a simple polyurethane or lacquer apply it once and don't worry about it again
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Titebond isn't my glue preference. I much prefer Smooth On.
I use Thunderbird finish. Beautiful, done in two days, and virtually indestructable.
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BEE'S WAX
OSAGE THEN HICKORY
CLP I just put copperhead skin from 3 rivers on a osage bow.
Let me say they suck. Mine were really light colored, simi dry rotted. But my big pev was I could not get the ends of the treads to stop unrivleing or cover up the ends so the looked smooth.
THEY SUCKED
MY FIRST AND LAST.
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crooketarrow- Thanks for the heads up. I have already ordered them, so I will just do whatever I can to get the best result, I guess. lol. I think I have just about everything I need to start this bow project... and will be picking up tools to tiller soon. couldn't find hack at lowes. lol.
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Another vote for true-oil here. Ive sprayed poly, rubbed on shallac, and painted on a few chemicals and oils. True-oil is durrable, consistent and easy in my oppinion. I use it on bows, arrows, knife handles and just about any wood craft I have done. good experiences all around hope it helps.
John
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First of all, welcome fellow jarhead! The faux skins can be made to look fairly decent. From five feet away or further most people don't realize that they're not real. The trick to the edges is doping them with your TB3 several times before you sand them out and then put a little more glue on your finger and just sort of rub along the edge after its sanded to stick down any stubborn whiskers. For a finish on cloth backed bows, I prefer fast dry spray polyurethane. Spray a light coat, wait an hour, repeat five more times. Let it set for a day and cure. Then take 400 grit and lightly sand. Don't sand through the finish, just knock off the high spots. Clean up the dust with a tack cloth and put six more light coats on, waiting an hour in between coats. Let it sit for a day then lightly sand again. I usually repeat this repeat this process 3 times. This will fill in the pores and the Low spots in the weave of the cloth and make for a really nice finish. For hunting you don't want a lot of shine so after it cures you can lightly buff with ultra fine steel wool to knock down the glare. Here's a hackberry I made awhile back with those fake skins. Josh
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Thanks Gun Doc, and that actually looks a lot better then I was expecting. I do appreciate the heads up, and the glue tips. I will definatley do that when I get there. Thank a lot.
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I also use True-Oil.Have for years. I apply it with my finger. The first coat takes the longest to dry usually and high humidity makes it take longer to dry. I usually do one coat per day for 5 or 6 days with a rubdown wih 0000 steel wool. For hunting bows I give them a quick spray satan poly to kill the shine of Tru-Oil.
Be sure the bows you build are well shot-in before you add the skins...just in case. ;)
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I like pure tung oil, and tru oil. Not together per say, just like both of them. One is dull, one is glossy. Tung oil is even more user friendly then tru oil. I hate missing little hairs or stuff in a tru oil finish, and having to fix it. Or missing a finger print smudge, etc. It's impossible to do that with tung oil I think. I wanna make my own paste wax though, to go over tung oil bows. I am going to buy terpentine, and some beeswax. One guy recommended I use carnuba though, because it is harder and not as sticky? Anybody make there own paste wax? Can a paste wax finish be buffed to a gloss? All the paste wax I have made has been cut with oil, and it never gave a good gloss finish. And it didn't really build up either like pure wax will do, it just wiped off.
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Anytime! I'm glad to help. I usually prefer tru oil on most of my bows and I apply it much the same as Pat does. I would also recommend waiting until your bows are well shot in before you apply the skins. They're cheap compared to the real thing, but not so cheap as to risk em on a bow that may not last. I won't skin one til after at least a hundred shots or so. Josh
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I am on a shellac kick right now. I like the look, but I havn't field tested it for durability though.
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Lots of good info on finishing out the bow after the fakesnake skins are applied. Nothing I can add to that.
BUT, after the glue is dried and before you put down your finish, take a fine tip magic marker and follow the line where the dark meets the light pattern on the skins. They absolutely POP out!
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JW. Just curious... do you have any pics with the skin pattern drawn?
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I use Tru-Oil on everything, bows included. Rub in in well, wipe off the excess, and then sand it every day with more oil, working the mud into the pores. Easy to apply, easy to maintain.
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Tru oil /rub it on also,coat a day for several days,no it's not that tough but very easy to fix if it does get scratched. :) Seem to work pretty good for me Mike,been using it for 25 years,no problems. Never read on it where it said only for gun stocks, ??? guess I missed that part. ??? :-[ :-\ Of course I never read the lables
until I mess up anyway. ;) :)
Pappy
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JW. Just curious... do you have any pics with the skin pattern drawn?
Lemme see if I can find some pics. If I can't find them, I will just go get the bow back from the recipient for a photoshoot.
You can always take a small off-cut of the material and try it yourself to see if it appeals to you.
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Got to say I don't like tru-oil it just isn't very durable. Try building up as many coats as you want on a piece of scrap wood, let it cure then try scratching it.....it really doesn't take much.
Try Thunderbird and do the same test.
You will see the difference.
I've also done similar tests with some sinew glued to the scrap. Tru -oil realy isn't very water proof either. Remember it's only meant for gun stocks and they don't bend :) In fact I know a chap who makes very expensive custom gun stocks....I asked him if he would use tru-oil on them and he just laughed.
Aw dang, now you tell me. I'm 24 coats of Tru-Oil into the finish on my rebuilt .36 caliber flintlock!
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Lol. And thanks for the idea JW.
I started my first bow (well 2 at once). Anyway, I was reading poorfolks, as I am using red oak boards, and he used drywall tape for backing, in which I am using artificial snakeskin, however, he added his before tillering, and I need to wait til after tillering to put the skins on, so I am wondering, do I have to worry about it cracking or anything since I will be flexing it on the tiller tree without the backing on?
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If you did a good job choosing a board with good grain orientation, you won't really have to add any backing unless it is for decoration. If the grain is bad enough, there isn't any backing that will save you.
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Very well. From what I understand, my decoration backing only really helps prevent splintering. I guess I will see tomorrow. If worst comes to worst, a trip to lowes and another 5 bucks. I think I should be ok, then. I'll start posting pics of these 2 bows after I get the tillering done, just to make sure they don't snap in the beginning.
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Ok, then. A man has gotta do what a man has gotta do. So do I. >:D
Best luck to you.
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I am a finishing junky. I have tried spray poly, acrylic lacquer, tung oil, true oil, finishing oil, melamine lacquer, bees wax, shellac and have even had a go at a cyanoacrylate finish. Bees wax is water soluble so I don't use it. I like true oil but it does go off quite quick (even turning the bottle upside-down) and it is quite pricy when compared with some of the other oil finishes out there. As toomany mentioned tung oil is very forgiving and actually forms a plastic like barrier once cured and for a simple stick and string bow is my choice. Finishing oil from liberon is also a nice bow finish and is my choice for my more fancy bows with handles and knock overlays and stuff, it can give a matt gloss or satin finish depending on your final buff. That said if you want real bomb proof, stay outside in the rain for a week, go for spray on poly. IMHO :)
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But does it say for gun stock ONLY. ::) No one say it was the only or very best,he ask what we used. :)
Pappy
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I've used mostly Tru-Oil on wood bows for as long as I have been building wood bows and that is over 25 years. I've never had a problem with it. If it does get scratched or the bow needs a repair the Tru-Oil just needs a little rubbing of 0000 steel wool and a few extra coats. I've used my bows in all kinds of weather and the Tru-Oil holds up well.
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I've used mostly Tru-Oil on wood bows for as long as I have been building wood bows and that is over 25 years. I've never had a problem with it. If if does get scratched of the bow needs a repair the Tru-Oil just needs a little rubbing of 0000 steel wool and a few extra coats. I've used my bows in all kinds of weather and the Tru-Oil holds up well.
Aw dang, now you tell me. I just sanded 24 coats of Tru-Oil off my rebuilt .36 caliber flintlock!
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John, that may have been a bit much at one time or was that part of the recoil arrest system? ;D
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The last few coats will get rubbed in until they are tacky to give it a matte finish.