Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Mo_coon-catcher on October 23, 2013, 01:07:31 am
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How much weight loss do you typically see when shooting in the bow and the final sanding? Normally I just aim for an approximate weight by feel for about what I want the bow to be which is typically around the 50 # mark and never really pay much attention to the weight until it's done as long as it feels right. But on a black locust shorty I'm working on I need it to come out around 30#. The girl I'm making it for can't draw much more than that and I don't want it any lower so that it will still have decent speed. Right now it is drawing 30# at 22" and I want it 30# at 25". How much weight should I expect it to drop? I'm not looking for an exact answer just an approximation. I'm guessing it will be around 3-5 lbs.
Thanks for the advice.
Kyle
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It depends on how much you need to sand. I sand a bow throughout the tillering process so that when I'm done the bow is pretty much sanded and I don't lose any weight.
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It depends on how much you need to sand. I sand a bow throughout the tillering process so that when I'm done the bow is pretty much sanded and I don't lose any weight.
Me too. If you step down through the tools during tillering you shouldn't lose much if any weight.
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Same thing here.Ditto on what these guys have said.With me when a bow is tillered to final draw weight and has a 100 grit finish on it.Sanding it farther with 220 does'nt lose you hardly any weight at all.Just the shooting in process of say 200 arrows & brace time sessions might but if tillered correctly that won't lose you any weight either.Maybe a shade more set but not weight.
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Same as above,most of the sanding is done when I am done tillering. :) And if tillered right you won't loose much shooting in,couple of pounds Maybe :)
Pappy
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I lost 5# last week sanding and finishing two bows, but also painted a house and hoed up the garden >:D
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Thanks everyone I'm glad to hear that. I've been periodically sanding it with 150 grit to keep the edges rounded while working and I have the back sanded to 220 grit. I will end up sanding the entire bow with 220 and 320 grit paper. I think I'll try to finish it out a couple of pounds higher than 30 Just for the shoot in. I'm hoping to have it shooting today working on it between classes.
Kyle
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Thats what I do Kyle,then after the shoot in ,if it is to heavy, It is just a matter of a few scraps and your good to go. :) Looking forward to seeing it. :)
Pappy
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I lost 5# last week sanding and finishing two bows, but also painted a house and hoed up the garden >:D
Ha! ;D What I do, is get the tiller looking good with a rasp/file, than remove all the tool marks with a scrapper and do the rest of the work with a scrapper, especially weight reduction, and stop about 5# or so heavier than I want the weight to be. When using a scrapper, the bow is nice and smooth and doesn't require any real heavy duty sanding, just enough to get a nice finish going on. I go from 180 grit, to 320 grit, to 800, 1000, and 2000. The last 800 and up I just kinda rub the bow down a bit, it doesn't take too much really. And I usually loose about 5 pounds I think, I haven't paid too much attention though unless trying to hit a certain weight, so I am no expert.
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I sand a little while tillering but not much. I find in final sanding I lose about 2 lbs of draw weight.
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I sand the back and sides completely right after I get the bow to brace. Then I tiller with a scraper and from there it only takes a little sanding with 220 to get the belly smooth.
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I sand the back and sides completely right after I get the bow to brace. Then I tiller with a scraper and from there it only takes a little sanding with 220 to get the belly smooth.
That is good advice.
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I sand the back smooth as a baby's behind and round off the edges before I start tillering at all so the back is ready before I even start. ??? ;) :)
Pappy
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Yeppers before tillering or big bending the back should be about glass smooth [220] & the edges rounded real good.All that's left really then is the sides[non factor there] and the belly which towards the final couple of inches of draw or so to target weight is already at a 100 grit finish.Rounding the belly edges moderately I've never seen be a factor.All woods done this way.Even horn on the belly too.Although with horn I try to leave the belly as crowned as I can.