Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: FAW on October 06, 2013, 10:58:55 am
-
I seem to be making the conversion to primitive bows totally and now plastic nocks on the arrows just do not look right when fired from these homespun bows. I have completed some self nocks after following directions from this site and the magazine and am using real sinew to wrap below the nock to give it some strength, thus preventing a split. Do you use anything other than hide glue to secure the sinew or will just chewing or otherwise wetting the sinew be enough. Do you stain the arrows after sinewing or before? Thanks for you help.
-
Yes stain and seal first. I soak my sinew over night. Tie it on I slowly heat mine with a heat gun from a distance or just leave it to dry on it's own.
IF YOU DO USE HEAT DON'T PUT THE HEAT ON THE STRAIGHTEN ARROW. FOR IT WILL WARP OR YOU'LL TAKE OUT THE BENDS YOU'VE HEATED OUT.
The sinew will tighten up good and tight when dry. Then I just seal with supper glue.
I'VE MADE AND SHOT 100'S OF SHOOT ARROWS THROUGH THE YEARS AND NEVER HAD A SELF KNOCK BREAK WHEN SINEWED.
-
Like crooketarrow said, seal arrow first. I do similar to what he said, but chew my sinew, no knot and let dry naturally. I use loctite gel to seal the wrap, or any super glue or clear fingernail polish or, I did this lastnight, I use a pine "varnish" made from pine sap. I use fairly dry sap and cover it with alcohol, once it disolves, I brush on w/ a Q-tip. Sometimes I do a second coat once it starts to dry. The "varnish" takes longer to dry than the fingernail polish or super glue. I Always wrap my nocks, no matter the material. I once asked a indian friend what he used to keep feathers held tight when making a headdress and he said he used "Crazy" glue. Then he made a joke about Crazy Horse that made me uncomfortable. You can take it to what ever extream you want, it's up to you how primitive or modern you want to go. ;) HAve fun either way, dp
-
I chew the sinew to soften it before wrapping self nocks. The sinew and saliva make their own glue so I don't use other glue to hold it down. I do seal the sinew with either pitch varnish or super glue after I'm sure it is completely dry.
-
I soak sinew in hide glue and then seal with a pitch varnish that I learned about on here from Pat B. The pitch varnish completely water proofs the sinew.
-
My thanks to all responding - what a great place to get answers! Thus far, I have six arrows self nocked with sinew on before staining. I now will wait until the other seven have been stained and sealed before applying the sinew. I may not get the pitch varnish ready for the remainder, but will be working on it for future arrows - guess I'll be using the Crazy Glue finish for the remainder this time. Again, my thanks.
-
I do the same as Pat,sometime seal and stain first but have done if after and see no real difference as long as the sinew wrap is dry and sealed before staining so it don't rehydrate and get loose again if using liquid stain. :)
Pappy
-
Maybe I am the only one that just uses regular sewing thread, sealed with super glue.
I use different colors for different spine arrows, and sometimes I use a specific color for a specific bow when there are arrows that shoot really well out of a specific bow.
Patrick
-
I know several that use sewing thread,it works and looks great,I just have plenty of sinew and not much thread. ;) :) :)
Pappy
-
I use either sinew or thread depending on the fancy level Im looking to attain. I apply my sinew as Pat does. I seal sinew and thread with Loctite superglue.
-
Maybe I am the only one that just uses regular sewing thread, sealed with super glue.
I use different colors for different spine arrows, and sometimes I use a specific color for a specific bow when there are arrows that shoot really well out of a specific bow.
Patrick
I use fake sinew on my fletches. I am planning on trying them on some hand cut nocks to see what they do.
Work great after some varnish is put on them.'
-
I use sinew to wrap mine but don't chew it. I soak it in a bowl of warm water then squeegee it through my fingers with TB3, then wrap. The Tight Bond holds it good and keeps it water resistant.
-
Well, here is my attempt at the self nocked sinewed arrows - I call them Hallowe'een missiles. Some of this bunch was stained and sealed first and some after being sinewed. The sinew was chewed- some put on with TBIII - a couple without anything. They all were coated with Gorilla Super Glue. The finish was leather stain with 3 coats of tung oil. Thanks for all the advice - I now have some plastic nocks to dispose of. ;)
[imghttp://(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x9/Buckhorn73/DSCF1377_zps1ffda590.jpg) (http://s185.photobucket.com/user/Buckhorn73/media/DSCF1377_zps1ffda590.jpg.html)][/img]
-
Faw, Looks like you got it, it's quite a bit more work than putting on plastic nocks. Looks like they are wrapped well and won't split. Those are some Halloween fletch for sure, though they would work in the autumn woods also. Do the nocks hold to the string or are you pinching them with your fingers. I've learned to make my nocks pop on string just like the plastic ones do with some careful sanding. Good on you for making your own.
-
Thanks, Don. The nocks snap on like the Bjorn or Snap-on plastics. I used a small file to widen the groove at the bottom but I think for the next bunch I do up, I will likely drill where the bottom of the slot will be and cut down to it. It was an enjoyable process and I will likely do all my arrows from now on the same. Again, my thanks to all.
-
I prefer to use a fiber wrap from local plants, usually Indian Hemp ,and glue it down with hide glue, if I'm making replica arrows, and seal with wax or TB3 for my own hunting arrows. Certain types of shoots don't even need a wrap as they are tough enough by themselves.