Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Mad Max on September 13, 2013, 07:00:40 pm
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The right side is loosing the flip
Osage 66" NTN shooting for 35# @ 28". I am in the tillering process now Half tillered to 26# @15" the flip tips are still 1/2" thick
this bow has been inside my house for 23 days and has lost 5 grams ( 28 grams in a ounce) of moisture.
the last 8 day with no loss. What should i do?
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b593/osagemark/100_0240_zps4d040535.jpg) (http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/osagemark/media/100_0240_zps4d040535.jpg.html)
3/8" to 1/2"
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b593/osagemark/100_0241_zps1fc68b49.jpg) (http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/osagemark/media/100_0241_zps1fc68b49.jpg.html)
The heat treat of the flip tip did work. Thanks Guys ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;)
This stave seamed to be very dry from the start, or a loss of oil from the wood or something????
I asked a question before ( can you add oil back to Osage?????)
This bow was cracked from the beginning, and seamed to be very dry.
I tillered this bow with a c clamp at the fade crack.
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b593/osagemark/100_0249_zps68f4bf84.jpg) (http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/osagemark/media/100_0249_zps68f4bf84.jpg.html)
http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/osagemark/media/100_0249_zps68f4bf84.jpg.html?filters[user]=136426681&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=6
sinew wrap after tiller
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b593/osagemark/100_0262_zpse9e55733.jpg) (http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/osagemark/media/100_0262_zpse9e55733.jpg.html)
It is broke (cracked) in this picture
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b593/osagemark/100_0257_zps73fa9938.jpg) (http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/osagemark/media/100_0257_zps73fa9938.jpg.html)
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b593/osagemark/100_0263_zps26a4678b.jpg) (http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/osagemark/media/100_0263_zps26a4678b.jpg.html)
after tillering i herd a crack so i patched this spot.
today i was shooting and heard another crack.
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b593/osagemark/100_0261_zpse1a21263.jpg) (http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/osagemark/media/100_0261_zpse1a21263.jpg.html)
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b593/osagemark/100_0255_zpsf741c59e.jpg) (http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/osagemark/media/100_0255_zpsf741c59e.jpg.html)
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b593/osagemark/100_0260_zps3b2c13e6.jpg)[/URL
while I was heat treating the flip tip a crack developed here.
[URL=http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/osagemark/media/100_0259_zps562c3ade.jpg.html](http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b593/osagemark/100_0259_zps562c3ade.jpg) (http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/osagemark/media/100_0260_zps3b2c13e6.jpg.html)
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Make a bow ;D.
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It's almost there.
should i heat bend it again ???or clamp it on the form and heat treat??
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Heat bend it again then wait a couple days and then make a bow
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i say if the wood flips you off then you flip off the bow right back.
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Reclamp your tips to your original bending form.Heat them till brown.Do one and let cool an hour then the other.Let set a day or two and it'll hold.
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Thanks Beadman
that is what i was thinking, 8) but not sure. :-\
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You knew what to do man...You were just ansy about taking the plunge.
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It's so easy to mess one up. :'(
I'am taking my time on this one. ;)
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If it doesn't take after this time, I would not try again. I think sometimes wood can be finicky, (maybe an internal knot you can't see, etc) and sometimes trying to force it to do something it don't wanna do can be bad. Remember, the wood should be nice and rubbery when you bend, if you have to force it, it ain't hot enough yet, and can break. I think too much heating over and over can result in brittle wood, which I guess don't matter too much on the belly when heat treating, but when trying to heat bend the wood it might be prone to cracking or lifting splinters, etc. If it was me, I would just remove a bit of wood on the left one, and exercise it on the tiller, little by little, until it matched the right one. I am lazy though, :).
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Reclamp your tips to your original bending form.Heat them till brown.Do one and let cool an hour then the other.Let set a day or two and it'll hold.
+2
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Thanks guys ;) ;) ;)
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really like this bow style.. ;)
Hope you don't mind but i have a Couple of questions?
Why are you shooting for such a low draw weight? any specific reason.. Does it have anything to do with what this recurve design will take i.e. max weight for this design at this length ?
I have an Osage stave on its way and will be shooting for a similar style but my stave is only 64" and i was wanting to shoot for a draw weight close to 60#....
Ive been told that this is easily obtainable with good Osage..... I may be looking at 62" NTN with my build..
I specifically want my bow as a hunting bow...
am i possibly aiming for the wrong style?
Should i forget about recurving tips and stick with a pyramid or Flat-bow Design? Would you typically get more power from a pyramid / flatbow than a recurve of the same NTN dimension or does this have no bearing.
Basically with a short Stave what design will give me more power? Recurve, Flat, Pyramid or other?
Any help with answers much appreciated?
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really like this bow style.. ;)
Hope you don't mind but i have a Couple of questions?
Why are you shooting for such a low draw weight? any specific reason.. Does it have anything to do with what this recurve design will take i.e. max weight for this design at this length ?
I have an Osage stave on its way and will be shooting for a similar style but my stave is only 64" and i was wanting to shoot for a draw weight close to 60#....
Ive been told that this is easily obtainable with good Osage..... I may be looking at 62" NTN with my build..
I specifically want my bow as a hunting bow...
am i possibly aiming for the wrong style?
Should i forget about recurving tips and stick with a pyramid or Flat-bow Design? Would you typically get more power from a pyramid / flatbow than a recurve of the same NTN dimension or does this have no bearing.
Basically with a short Stave what design will give me more power? Recurve, Flat, Pyramid or other?
Any help with answers much appreciated?
I have a left shoulder injury , I shoot lefty, but i am right handed. i need a performance bow to take up my slack. this bow could make 60# or more.
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Capt I'am just having fun learning and making these bows.
don't take my advice , i am still learning
Thanks
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Moved to top
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can I fix this ( a heavy sinew wrap) or should i cut my losses.
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Looks like and ender to me. Sorry for that!
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If those cracks would'nt of came to the edge of your bow I'd say it would of made it.If I know myself I'm doing everything right in design and tiller those kind of bows I write off to just a sorry piece of wood.I can't say much more than that without looking at it in my hands.Looks like you followed the grain good from the pictures.Most times hedge is a real forgiving type wood.Maybe it was too dry.Don't feel alone we've had it happen to all of us.Guess it's time to live by your motto and move to another piece of wood.It was a very nice unique snaky looking bow.No reason a different one won't make a bow for ya.
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thanks beadman
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I have a lovely yew stave roughed out to a similar shape. Every time I floor tillered I could hear a little pop.
Same cracks as your self that run out to the edge :( I put it back in the corner of shame/soon to be kindling.
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I have a lovely yew stave roughed out to a similar shape. Every time I floor tillered I could hear a little pop.
Same cracks as your self that run out to the edge :( I put it back in the corner of shame/soon to be kindling.
Yea----------- It was such a nice bow , i got about 50 shots out of it.
Now i need another OSAGE STAVE ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;)
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That one is toast and I can see some spots where you haven't followed the grain.
I doubt very much wether it was too dry. Bow wood that is too dry tends to just explode when bent not open up cracks like this.
Learn some lessons and move on!
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That one is toast and I can see some spots where you haven't followed the grain.
I doubt very much wether it was too dry. Bow wood that is too dry tends to just explode when bent not open up cracks like this.
Learn some lessons and move on!
I did follow the grain >:D :) this bow has many crack's in it