Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Fred Arnold on September 06, 2013, 08:31:52 pm
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Another bow From the 6 I'm getting ready to finish and would like your suggestions before the final touches are implemented. This one is sleeve T/D, 66 1/2 NTN, 44#@28. I'd like to get another 5# out of it without flipping the tips. Would removing 1 1/4" from each end get me there? The tool marks from the back and sides have already been sanded and cleaned up so I shouldn't lose too much more weight if I don't have to do a lot of scraping on the limbs. Top limb to the right 1 1/2" longer than the bottom limb.
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That tiller sure is pretty! If you haven't heat tempered the belly yet, that would be another option for upping the draw weight. Really nice work Sir! Josh
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I think it looks great just like it is. If you want to up the poundage, piking it would sure get you there, but I wouldn't do that unless the bow is still showing some reflex unbraced. A toasting like was suggested might do it without inducing set. Just my two cents. If it was mine, I would just finish it as is - tiller really looks good.
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Thank you Josh. Coming from you I take that as a big compliment. The only bow I've hit weight on since I started this was the 62" 50@28 black walnut flat bow that you offered so much help on.
I did heat treat the belly on this but not a thorough heat treatment. Just enough to straighten out some minor twist and line up the tips through the handle.
This one sits at an angle on the tree when unstrung and braced but straightens out when pulled.
I should take a pic of it at full draw. At the moment it only shows to 24".
I keep thinking I'm seeing some stiffness in about 8-12" from the tip on the top (right) limb and maybe the same coming right off the riser. Do you see it or is it my imagination?
Shown at brace and 28".
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Howard, you were posting as I was snapping pics. It shoots good as is but I may try to temper the belly since I like a longer bows. The braced pic reminds me of a couple old 57 Bears I used to have. Both Kodiak Specials. They both had a tiller that looked strange strung but sure did toss an arrow.
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Fine looking bow Fred.
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The tiller does look good, but I'm seeing a little bit more bend centered toward the fades on the right while it's a perfect circle on the left. That might account for the unequal brace picture.
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Thanks Trapper Rob and John.
John, can I call you Coop? Thanks for the input and I see just the opposite but that's why I asked. These old eyes of mine play tricks on me sometimes. I wished I'd have started doing this when I was 30 instead of waiting until 60, then maybe I'd have enough experience to feel it like some of these guys do.
I have problems with floor tiller and tree tiller although I'm confident that I'm getting better.
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That looks pretty good to me Fred. Heck if its too light for you, I'll always trade you it for that atlatl set >:D >:D.. Nice job and I think john cooper may be right about the brace unevenness.
Jon
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Well done! Love it. Jawge
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I would leave it alone, it looks great. Why mess with it? No piking no toasting. Try for more poundage on your next bow...
For my taste I would like the bend come bit closer to the fades, but I would not try to change that at this state.
Well done!
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The left limb is weaker than the right. Any difference between the limbs tip posistion in the bow unbraced and braced should carry on to full draw.
What does the width taper look like?
It's really impossible to give critique on the tiller unless we know the width taper.
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The left limb is weaker than the right. Any difference between the limbs tip posistion in the bow unbraced and braced should carry on to full draw.
What does the width taper look like?
It's really impossible to give critique on the tiller unless we know the width taper.
+1
Make a pic from unbraced bow and front profile. Tiller is very close!
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The top limb has some deflex. Bow has taken 1 1/2" of set originally and has stayed there.
1 5/8" at the fades tapering the length to 7/16" tips.
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Thr right hand tip is a shade stiff but it looks good to me.
The important thing at this stage is how it shoots in the hand. If there is any handshock then it's a limb timing issue eg. how the limbs are moving when shot and the string reaches brace.
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Lots of things would work, Fred. Personally I would pike it. I would want that right limb bending more in the outer limb. But I would pull it by hand in front of a mirror or camera before determining too much. Maybe shoot it a little, then fine tune tiller.