Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: CherokeeKC on September 02, 2013, 09:26:59 pm
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I am finally getting around to finishing my first bow that has been in the process of being built for a year and half now. This was due to graduating college, getting a job, and buying a "fixer upper" house. Anyway I built a tillering tree a couple days ago and got the bow on long string today. I made a flemish twist tiller string and use bowyers knot on other end. I can not for the life of me get this thing on short string and the bow is ready. I have always used a bowstring with two loops. Trying to bend the bow and maneuver the bowyers knot onto the knock end to brace is not working. How in the world do you guys brace your bows using a bowyers knot on one end? Everytime I would barely have enough strength to slip the bowstring over nock once I let off it would be tight but 0" brace. The hickory flatbow has 2-2.5' of reflex so that might be one thing making it harder. Also there is a pic below of a spot on side of the bow where the grain ran in and pulled out sometime during the process. How would you all handle this spot?
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-05-23153745_zpsb80b1bab.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-05-23153745_zpsb80b1bab.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-05-23153713_zps518dade1.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-05-23153713_zps518dade1.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-02191201_zps02c86df8.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-02191201_zps02c86df8.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-02191042_zps963fb483.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-02191042_zps963fb483.jpg.html)
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The place where the grain split out wont hurt a thing.just sand it. As for the bracing get a stringer and it helps. If it is too many lbs than take it down until it is the weight u want wen it is finished. I dont ever take it an inch past the final weight I want
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Ran into the same problem myself on my first reflexed bow. Turns out the string was too long so I twisted it to try and compensate. However it just caused the string to stretch. May need to make a shorter string or one with more strands to avoid the stretching. Or tiller it on the long string a little more to reduce the initial brace height weight.
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I treat it like a string with two loops when I use a bowyer's knot, whenever possible..which it is with that bow.
I tighten the knot down in that nock leaving the bowstring short enough that I can then push-pull
the upper loop into the upper nock. It may require some trial and error to get the length just right but
should only take a matter of minutes/ a couple of tries.
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Slip the top loop over the upper limb, tie the string onto lower nock and string it. Jawge
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Tie the knot on the bottom limb string nock. The string being 3-4 inches short of the nock on the top limb should give you full brace, so make it short of that to start, say 2-2 1/2". I don't use a stringer as a rule and many of my strings have a bowyers knot in one end. Step-thru and slide the string loop up the limb as you bend the bow. I know this is heresy to many, but it's all I've ever done and I have never broken one stringing it, just use some common sense and be careful. Should get you to low brace. Adjust the string length (shorten it up) as you get the bow closer to desired final brace height. Work at low brace and get the tiller right before you shorten it up.
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Are you sure its ready for a brace? I find that I can step through string a much heavier bow that I can push-pull.
I use this as a guide to how heavy the bow is and weather or not its ready for the string.
Also I have found that the more twists there are in a string the more it will stretch.
Floor tiller/bend the bow with a loose string and see if its moving far enough without busting a blood vessel. The bow under a massive amount of force at this stage so if you push it too much you will get a bunch of set.
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Thanks for the replies everyone. The bow is bending well on long string and pulling 40-50 lbs. I will try the push/pull method this afternoon. I think my technique was wrong with the step through method. It was hot and i was getting aggravated so i quit for the day before i damaged the bow
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Hickory "Lenape" style flatbow, 69.5" tip to tip, 47# at 28". I was shooting for 50# at 28" so not too bad for first bow I guess. I also left it long so if I missed my poundage during tillering I would have the option of shortening it to get some pounds back. Let me know what you guys think of the tiller. First pic is it braced at 5" sitting on tillering tree.
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-04190119_zps8f8fdd4c.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-04190119_zps8f8fdd4c.jpg.html)
Full draw pics. I took a couple so maybe one background is better than other for judging tiller.
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-04190925_zps0955d337.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-04190925_zps0955d337.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-04190835_zps1baffc3a.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-04190835_zps1baffc3a.jpg.html)
The bow has a little curve to it, which made me put the limb with the knots on it down, so it would put the string closer to the side of bow I shoot from.
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-04190205_zps5620c334.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-04190205_zps5620c334.jpg.html)
And here is one at 28" draw on the tiller tree.
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-04191249_zpsa69ea637.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-04191249_zpsa69ea637.jpg.html)
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I know the tiller isnt perfect by far. I believe I have it bending a tad too much in the handle. And the top/right limb (above) bends a tad more than the left.
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I agree with your assessment on the tiller. The fact that you recognize it puts you ahead of the game on the next one. Very nice first bow! I like it a lot.
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To me it looks like a hinge right out of the handle on the left and another slight hinge mid limb and then stiff the outer half, the right limb is bending to much in the inner third with the outer two bending very little . I think it would be best to go through and correct the tiller. Congratulations on your first
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I dont think there are any hinges so maybe its the pic. I know the brown unpainted spots on wall arent the best background.
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The wall pic doesn't do much. Its the hand drawn pic that matters. Your handle is working a TAD too hard and the mid limbs could bend much more. Id cut 3" off it and retiller it a bit. That will be enough to get it straightened out and still keep weight.
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Working too hard in the middle, not enough in the outer 1/2 of each limb. left is a bit stiffer than the right.
Couple of pointers.
1. Make sure the bow is free to rock on the tiller, so don't have the top of the tree wide and square, round it off a tad.
2. Make sure you support the bow where you hand will support it , and draw it from where your fingers will pull it.
It jus tneeds easing off a tad on the outer limbs to get a smoothe rcurve. Try the hold ing CD or coffee mug up in front of the pic and you'll see where its bending most.
mind it all depends what shape you want it to be.
When I look back at some of mine I think ... hmmmm bit stiff at the tips or too much bend mid limb.
I think we maybe get a bit obsessive about it all, but it needs that perfectionist streak to get your eye attuned to the subtleties.
Remember tillering is about stopping the problems occurring almost before you can see 'em. Once they are really obvious, it's often too late to fix it without dropping a fair bit of draw weight.
Del
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Agreed working to much in the handle,stay off that and little stiff a few inchec out from the handle on the left limb,and little stiff on the outer 1/3. Hand drawn looks pretty good,that is how I always finish up the tiller anyway,I want to see what it looks like when drawn the way it will be shot. Not bad,if you got the weight to spare you should be able to work out the little problems. :)
Pappy
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Thanks slimbob.
Thanks newindian. I will work on the tiller a bit more.
Thanks Pearl Drums. I think I will cut some length off and work on tiller.
Thanks Del for the other pointers. I rounded the corners of the rest on tiller tree some but I think ur right it needs rounding much more.
Thanks Pappy I will work on those spots.
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The wall pic doesn't do much. Its the hand drawn pic that matters. Your handle is working a TAD too hard and the mid limbs could bend much more. Id cut 3" off it and retiller it a bit. That will be enough to get it straightened out and still keep weight.
+1
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I'm surprised no one suggested heat treating that bow. That would bring the weight up a bit and then you could
retiller, leaving the handle area alone..
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I agree with the guys above about the tiller. I also agree with Sonny about heat treating the belly and maybe also kick the tips just a bit. You have plenty of length so reducing the length to 60" to 64" would help too.
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Thanks Bryce, sonny, and PatB.
I cut 1.5" off each end last night, cut new nocks, and worked on the outer halves of each limb. The bow is 55lb at 28" now so I still have 5-8lbs to play with. I will post pics once i work on a lil more tonight.
When heat treating do I just heat the belly or the back also? Also how do you know when you have heat treated a spot/section enough?
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I saw the thread on heat treating hickory so nevermind that question.
I have scraped on the outer halves of each limb and even more on the outer thirds. I am still at 55lbs at 28" and about 66" tip to tip so 64" nock to nock. Let me know what you guys think. Maybe a little more scraping on outer third of left/lower limb?
This is bow braced at 4.5".
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-06191114_zps33842bf4.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-06191114_zps33842bf4.jpg.html)
Here it is pulled to 28"
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-06191229_zps147b673c.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-06191229_zps147b673c.jpg.html)
Bow immediately after unbracing after exercising limbs 25 times.
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-06191506_zpsa699aed6.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-06191506_zpsa699aed6.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-06191514_zpsac8f3ea7.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-06191514_zpsac8f3ea7.jpg.html)
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Still a little stiff. I haven't built as many as pearl but if that were mine get the outer/ mid limbs bendin then it will b good. The drawn pict shows you are close.
Nice, looks like u will have a shooter :)
Greg
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Still a little stiff. I haven't built as many as pearl but if that were mine get the outer/ mid limbs bendin then it will b good. The drawn pict shows you are close.
Nice, looks like u will have a shooter :)
Greg
1+ it's looking good
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Thanks twisted hickory and Newindian!
I will keep scraping. Those knots on the left/lower limb double my scraping time lol.
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Looking pretty good to me,I like the outer lombs a little stiff on mine anyway. :)
Pappy
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Your gonna have a nice shooting bow there.Looks pretty good bending.Nothing like a good piece of hickory.
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Thanks Pappy and beadman!
I might scrape a little more on outer thirds but calling it done soon for 1st bow.
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I heat treated the belly this morning. Let me know if you guys think I heated it enough. It also gave the bow back an inch of reflex.
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-14110108_zpsa992f6d5.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-14110108_zpsa992f6d5.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-14110132_zpsc29e798a.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-14110132_zpsc29e798a.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-14105232_zpsc7dda437.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-14105232_zpsc7dda437.jpg.html)
Showing 1" reflex
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-14113611_zps8c53c381.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-14113611_zps8c53c381.jpg.html)
I put the bow on tiller tree and now its pulling 50# at 24" at 4" brace. Couple of questions. The bow is 1.25" at handle and 7/8" at nocks. I was thinking I might take a little off the width to bring weight down some if you guys think the tiller is pretty good for now. Also look at the pic that shows how the string lays on bow. Will this make shooting the bow uncomfortable or make the bow want to twist in your hand upon release?
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-14122210_zps956fad39.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-14122210_zps956fad39.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-14121354_zps50d4f222.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-14121354_zps50d4f222.jpg.html)
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I think 1.25 at the handle is fine, 7/8 at the nocks is a little wide and heavy. Looks to me that you can still get the outers bending a tad more, so I might thin it down some at the tips. 1/2 wide or so. I wouldn't go any thinner near the handle if it were me.
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I want to take a guess at the tiller to see if I am learning anything. This is more a test of my eyes than you bow. It looks to me like the right hand limb could use more bend from the middle out to the tip and the left hand limb could use more bend from the middle to the handle. Again, this is testing me. How did I do?
Don
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It's hard to tell from the pics but it doesn't appear that you heat treated it long enough as the wood's not as dark as
it should be. Not only that but when heat treatment is done properly it drives moisture out of the wood such that the
bow should be allowed to rehydrate for a few days.
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Lookin good. Maybe do some side tillering on the tips to 1.narrow them 2. To get them to bend just a tad more.
You could also afford to go another pass with the heat gun. A little darker. Then let the wood sit horizontally for a few days then recheck the tiller.
All and all your doing very well.
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Thanks SLIMBOB. I will most likely thin the width to the tips.
Don C I believe you are correct. These are spots I have been slowly working on. I am just timid of taking off too much too fast.
Thanks Sonny. I guess I should have researched more about heat treating. I didnt know to leave it to rehydrate. I will make another pass to darken it and let it sit and rehydrate.
Thanks Bryce. I will do as you suggest.
Does anyone have an opinion/experience on where the string tracks and how it will shoot and feel?
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I reduced the tip width to 5/8" and blended over the outer thirds. This however brought a small knot on back very close to edge so that its right on the corner. The knot goes through to the belly. Do you guys think this will be a problem? Should I fill it with super glue?
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-17192253_zps2f797b4d.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-17192253_zps2f797b4d.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-17192238_zps79898fd8.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-17192238_zps79898fd8.jpg.html)
I dont know if you can see it in pic but there are small voids in/around the knot on the back.
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-17190305_zpsa249274b.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-17190305_zpsa249274b.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-17190317_zps3213c2e6.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-17190317_zps3213c2e6.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-17190321_zps1501284f.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-09-17190321_zps1501284f.jpg.html)
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That part of the doesn't do a whole of bending. If you wanna drop some CA glue in there that's fine. But it doesn't look like an issue.
How's the tiller looking?
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Ok. I ran out of time last night to cut nocks in. I will cut new nocks tonight and string it and will post new pics once I work on it some. I appreciate the help. I would have thought more people(i.e. the regulars) would weigh in on my questions but guess not.
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+1 Bryce.
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No one else needed to weigh in on the question Bryce already answered it
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First things first.
Yes you do need to correct the string tracking issue. This can be done with dry heat no problem.
Get a 3x2 or similar and use it to clamp the bow to sideways. Place a spacer under the outer most part of the sideways curveand use a clamp at either end to apply pressure and reverse the bend. You will need to over correct it by 50% for it to be ok when you take the clamps off.
So get it all clamped up with the belly facing you and then proceed to heat it and periodically tighten the clamps. Once its all clamped down to where you want it (over corrected) then give it a final pass over with the heat gun. You need it to be hot all the way through so every so often heat the back as well (but not too much!).
Once this is done though you will have to be careful with any more heat treating you do as the heat will allow the corrected sideways bend to relax to it's original shape....so use of a form, spacers and clamps will help hold it.
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Thanks SLIMBOB.
Joec123able I like to get several peoples opinion when it comes to certain things and take action once I have heard several sides/ways to do things. Maybe its the engineer in me :). I dont think anyone just takes one persons view and runs with it without researching further. And just let me also say that I have a very high opinion of Bryce's suggestions and have seen numerous excellent bows from him. I have actually incorporated all his suggestions so far. It would not matter who replied I would still want more than one.
Thanks mikekeswik. I will consider doing this. I have a couple of questions about it though. Since I have already heat treated the belly will the additional heat affect anything in a negative way? If I do use dry heat to correct string, how do I know when it is heated enough but not too much? Also I am hesitant to heat the back at all because I am afraid of making it too brittle.
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Makes sence, totally understandable sorry bout that
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No problem Joec123able. I appreciate the re-reply :) and no hard feelings here.
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I disagree that it's necessary to fix the string tracking problem.
That bow is likely to shoot better from the side that the string tracks closest to but then again there's a chance
that it might shoot perfectly regardless of which end is up.
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I disagree that it's necessary to fix the string tracking problem.
That bow is likely to shoot better from the side that the string tracks closest to but then again there's a chance
that it might shoot perfectly regardless of which end is up.
Eh? Just picture what will happen when he draws it??? Either you have to grip the life out of it or let it rotate in the hand for the string to 'centralise' either isn't good.
How many glass, compound etc bows do you see made with the string way off to the side?? What's the reason? Exactly what I said above.
Are you also saying that the lower limb doesn't need to be stronger to get correct tiller? I know for a fact that a well made bow cannot be shot with either limb as the top and stay in tiller.....
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Thanks SLIMBOB.
Joec123able I like to get several peoples opinion when it comes to certain things and take action once I have heard several sides/ways to do things. Maybe its the engineer in me :). I dont think anyone just takes one persons view and runs with it without researching further. And just let me also say that I have a very high opinion of Bryce's suggestions and have seen numerous excellent bows from him. I have actually incorporated all his suggestions so far. It would not matter who replied I would still want more than one.
Thanks mikekeswik. I will consider doing this. I have a couple of questions about it though. Since I have already heat treated the belly will the additional heat affect anything in a negative way? If I do use dry heat to correct string, how do I know when it is heated enough but not too much? Also I am hesitant to heat the back at all because I am afraid of making it too brittle.
To answer your questions
No
When it feels hot to the touch. So hot that you can only hold your hand on it for a second or two.
Why would heat make the back brittle? Too much may but by then the back would have changed colour and you aren't aiming to do this. Just do most of the heating from the belly - no problem to alter the colour here.
The problem you have now is you are chasing problems around.
When you laid the bow out the know would have been avoidable with experience and you should have corrected the tracking issue when it was only roughed out.
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I've made a "few" bows in my time and many of those had the string tracking to one side, in fact I have one in my shop right now that has the string lying way off center. It shoots quite well and in no way tries to twist in my hand. The only time I worry about string tracking is when I am making a static recurve, then it can be a bit dicey but only because I worry that the string could fall off.
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I disagree that it's necessary to fix the string tracking problem.
That bow is likely to shoot better from the side that the string tracks closest to but then again there's a chance
that it might shoot perfectly regardless of which end is up.
Eh? Just picture what will happen when he draws it??? Either you have to grip the life out of it or let it rotate in the hand for the string to 'centralise' either isn't good.
How many glass, compound etc bows do you see made with the string way off to the side?? What's the reason? Exactly what I said above.
Are you also saying that the lower limb doesn't need to be stronger to get correct tiller? I know for a fact that a well made bow cannot be shot with either limb as the top and stay in tiller.....
You'll not convince me that the string being slightly off-center will cause either thing that you mention above.
Truth is that I feel like we should start a new thread about string tracking rather than trying to hash it out here..
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A new discussion would be fine but just to close this one, a bow with a tip off to one side will just find it's own center as it is drawn
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As long as it tracks to the side of the arrow rest, I don't worry about it.
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Thanks mikekeswick, sonny, Marc St. Louis and Bryce
I was already leaning towards tweaking the tiller the last little bit and finishing the bow and calling it done. I have a gut feeling if I keep trying to make this first bow "perfect" that I will end up with a broken bow or more likely just severely under weight. I have learned over the years to trust my gut so nothing against you mike but I will probably just finish it. I really hope you will continue to weigh in on any future threads I have and dont take it personal. If I find that the bow wants to twist in my hand or doesnt shoot well after shooting it in then I may just do as you suggest and attempt to heat the side bend out of it. I really appreciate it guys.
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You sir are a fine diplomat Cherokee!
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As far as i'm concerned it's just plain physics. It's not about opion. I respect others having a different view I was just saying what my experience was not trying to big up myself or indeed put anybody else down...if that's how others have seen it. I wasn't trying to blow my own trumpet merely quantify what I was saying (notice the wink).
I also know that the bow will find it's own center - that was what I said. Finding its own center IS twisting relative to the angle the flat belly has been shaped to.
I make loads of flatbows with the string lying off-center and just shape the handle to suit and haven't had a single problem - i'm NOT saying that every bow has to be plum straight...far from it.
However just as you point out Marc there are some bows that need to have the string tracking properly and in MY experience narrow (ish) bend in the handle bows like this benfit from the string tracking true. If it isn't and the bow is shot finding its own center then one back edge is under more strain than the other.
That's the beauty of bow making.....many way to skin a cat.
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There's more than one way to skin a squirrel (as us cats say)
You can think outside the box.
It is perfectly possible to do an 'overlay' on the side of a tip to patch a bad area or to even bring it across into line.
I did it on a daft experimental stick bow, I called it a 'Side-verlay' rather than an over-lay :laugh:
That's the joy of messing about with daft bits of wood, you can investigate what is possible.
Del
There is a pic of a substantial sideverlay on this blog entry.
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/stick-bow.html (http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/stick-bow.html)
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Lol thanks 4dog.
Thanks mike.
Thanks Del the cat.
Well I drilled some holes in my tiller tree to utilize krewson's tiller tool. I reduced several areas to get the bow bending more evenly. The bow is still holding at 57# at 28". I also measured how far off center the string lies. It is 3/16" to the left of center.
The following picture is the bow braced at 5 3/4" and a couple full draw pics. How far is the average brace height for a flatbow?
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/101_0850_zps1cf7aba1.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/101_0850_zps1cf7aba1.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/101_0851_zps182fdb1d.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/101_0851_zps182fdb1d.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/101_0853_zps998e9b3d.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/101_0853_zps998e9b3d.jpg.html)
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That bend looks awesome from here...
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Somewhere between 5 and 6 inches is around average. Can be a little less or a little more, I generally shoot bows with a lower rather than higher brace height as this makes for a longer power stroke to the arrow and less strain on the bow at brace.
As for the tiller it's looks nice and even. Maybe a shade more bend in the mid to outer limbs.
When it comes to evaluating final tiller if it looks good to the eye when hand drawn I will shoot it some with slightly light arrows and see if there is any handshock. When a bow is perfect it will feel like nothing happened when you release the string.
Looks like you've done a great job with it. :)
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Looks good to these eyes.
Well done. Now get some coats of Tru-Oil on there and call it a bow.
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Awesome thanks guys :).
I have some walnut hulls i threw in a 5 gal bucket with water and sealed with lid two years ago. Well it was in a storage unit for a while and then in outside garage. I pulled lid off the other day and there was some nasty hard growth on top of liquid lol. I pulled that out of the bucket and poured the liquid through several layers of cheese cloth into another bucket. It has a slight stench to it but not too bad. Will boiling get the stench out of it or should I just use it to stain the bow because the stench will not be a problem?
Bryce I do plan on using Tru oil to seal the bow once stained.
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Holy smokes! Now that's a tiller! Very nicely done! I don't know this for certain, but the stench in your walnut dye would suggest bacteria or fungal induced decay. It may be harmless after boiling, but I would be hesitant to use it on a bow. Not to mention, that's gonna be some kinda stinky when you boil it! Lol! Great job on the tiller. Josh
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That's a good bend! Looks great.
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how does it shoot ??
by this point I would have shot a bunch of arrows from it...............
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Smooth looking bend Cherokee, I think your good to go on that bow. Regarding the walnut stain my only suggestion would be to boil it outside if your a married man. ;D
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Thanks Gun Doc! Yeh I am hesitant on using the stain.
Thanks hrhodes!
sonny I only shot it about 5 times today but it shot smooth. I figured out I need to make some arrows to suit this bow. You could hear the arrows hit the bow near the rear of arrow upon release. I have some cane I am going to work on tomorrow.
Thanks Badly Bent! And yeh it will definitely be outside if I do boil it.
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I wonder if you could put a bacteria killer that wouldn't bleach it in there ??? Boiling it would probably do good tho.
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Ok I finished sealing the bow on 9/28/13 I believe. Here are the finished pics finally. I will get my girlfriend to snap a final pic of fulldraw in a couple days if you guys want it :).
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-10-08090241_zps37771dc8.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-10-08090241_zps37771dc8.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-10-08090737_zpsb4610936.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-10-08090737_zpsb4610936.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-10-08090700_zps43054862.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-10-08090700_zps43054862.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-10-08090709_zpse98fd7d5.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-10-08090709_zpse98fd7d5.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-10-08090716_zps7d64bcb3.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-10-08090716_zps7d64bcb3.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-10-08090850_zpsb64a1f41.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-10-08090850_zpsb64a1f41.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-10-08091654_zps81dbf9a5.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-10-08091654_zps81dbf9a5.jpg.html)
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That came out real nice! And uhh....of course we want the full draw! ::) Lol! Josh
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Very nice! From start to finish it improved immensely! well done.
Jon
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Wow a very nice first bow that's for sure
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That's a fine bow. Great job. FULL DRAW PLEASE >:D
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Well done. Love the knots, nocks and the finish.
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Very nice!
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I'm a big fan! You did tremendously well, that is a great first bow! I think that wood choice and design is the perfect combo for people making their first bow. That bow should last you years.
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Thanks for all the kind words guys! It means alot :)
Here is the full draw pic and pic of upper nock that i forgot. Sorry I had to take them inside because its been raining for 3 days here in VA.
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-10-10185927_zps33c538eb.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-10-10185927_zps33c538eb.jpg.html)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-10-10185604_zpse489a81c.jpg) (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/charnockk/media/1st%20Bow%20Hickory/2013-10-10185604_zpse489a81c.jpg.html)
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Nice!
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I don't know how I mist this...............Very nice hickory bow with minimal string follow,
DBar
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Spot on tiller. Well done all around. Be proud.
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BRAVO!!! congratulations ;)
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Thanks guys means alot coming from everyone that I have watched post great bows for years. I hope to post another within next few months. Full swing into hunting season now tho so that might slow it down.
PS. I thought I replied to this the other day but something must have screwed up