Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: BowEd on August 21, 2013, 12:04:07 pm
-
I made a winged elm lately here.Heat treated it at floor tiller.Tillered it.Thought it took too much set after shoting it in some,and while I was doing that a ring on the belly of the fade raised up just a scooch.No noise or anything.The rings don't come out nice and even there on the belly at the fade but the thickness is the same at both edges.Grain run off you know.Nothing of a crack migrates to the back or anything.It's the top fade where I narrow the arrow pass [bulbous handle]close to center shot.I've always gotten away with doing this with no problems but this time it bit me.Since then I've reheat treated it and have put a double wrap of sinew 1and3/4" wide over both fades.To me sinew is the best wrap a person can put on a bow.Now I'll wait a good 10 days and tiller it back to my draw weight if it has gained some poundage from heat treating and shoot it in I hope.I've never needed to do this to a bow yet and was wondering if someone had success with this on a bow or two.
Hope it works.What do you guys think?Time will tell huh.
First picture here is before sinewing.They may not come in too great but....
-
After sinewing
-
You can see on the before picture where I put super glue on it.That did'nt stop it from raising again hence the sinew wraps were put on.
-
There is a lot of stress in the fade area because of the leverage of the limbs. The wraps should hold it together.
-
Yea there is Pat so I double wrapped it.Sounds like you don't think it'll work......LOL.
-
The handle is slightly 1/4" deflexed so that'll help some I hope.
-
Elm is pretty tough. As good a chance with it as any other wood. I don't do many board bows(very few) so I don't have the experience to say yes or no.
-
This bow was from a stave.You bet that winged elm is pretty tough stuff.It has a pretty good chance of surviving IMO.
-
I'll say a 70% to 30% chance.......LOL.Too bad it's on the top limb that's the concern here.I've never been thump banged by a broken limb on the knogin or in my face yet but there's always a first time I guess.It's the same reasoning here as a lot of guys to continue with it....I've got too much time invested into it to grab a different piece of wood right now but I'd like to maske a static..The levers on this one are the narrowest I've ever made and were a bugger to get lined up.It's mass weight is running pretty low too altogether for a self bow.
How's your static coming with the sinew Pat?The 18th of August has come and gone now......LOL.How long was that one again?
-
Ed, I posponed working on that bow unil we dry out a little. We've had almost 40" of rain since June(over 75" for the year already) and it is raining today. It will probably be this winter or at least late fall before I get back to it.
On the top of the "BOWS" page or the "HOW TO" page is a build along on a 60" elm satic recurve I did for the TG bow Trade a few years ago. That was my first true elm selfbow and I learned to love that wood.
-
I think you have a better chance than that Ed....is say 99 out of a hundred times that work if wrapped up right...and I'd say your chances are better than mine....and nuttin wrong with a good piece of elm 8)
-
Well it's the first time I've attempted this Chris I'm groping in the dark again to make a bow.....LOL.Fun huh....LOL.Yours has some doubts too but I'd bet on that python constricting it down good.You've got enough length I think on the limbs which will help.You know if it does splinter up you have the option of putting the new backing on yet too.Guess that's why your going this route....LOL.
Pat....40" of rain since June...holy smokes!!!!!!!Wish we would of got just a third of that here.We're dry as a bone here.Tiller it in your house man.....LOL.
-
We don't have A/C so it doesn't matter. I wish I could send some of this rain your way. We've had enough for all of the Western States.
-
You heated it to fast and damaged the wood cells. This is mainly what happens with heated bows. That and the hummity both will cause excess set and string folow.
-
It being on the belly and shouldn't be bending there much if at all I would give it a pretty good chance of making it. Lots of folks do it now but it is always a chance of trouble when you get the handle that narrow. Looks like a fine job on the wrap
and if anything will hold it sinew will. :) :) I have wrapped the in that area before
because of a splinter lifting in the fad at the cut in and it worked on several,I am always careful to never let one bend into the fads now for that very reason. :)
Good luck and keep us posted. :) Are you sure it was from shooting or I have seen many pop up a grain in that area when heating and adding reflex,in essenes bending the bow backwards and the grain pop up in the fad/handle area from the stress of bending it backwards and violated grain on the belly , same as when you flip the tips,if that's the case it usually won't cause any trouble at all. Just odd doing that on the belly,all the stress of shooting is on the back :-\ :-\ sorry for the long winded responce, just odd to me. :-\ By the way I know how crooketarrow feels and that is fine[ to each their own] :) but I don't think the heat done it,done to many with no issues. JMO. ;) :)
Pappy
-
Agree with Pappy completely. Can't see that heating the bow had any effect on the separation. I've got a similar situation on the lever fade of a molly I built last winter. I didn't wrap it with sinew so that I could watch it to see if it got worse. Added a little CA glue and finished it. No change at all since I first spotted it. Yes it was being heated as I bent it backwards to add a little reflex, but it was the bending, not the heating that caused it IMO. My guess, your good.