Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Around the Campfire => Topic started by: toomanyknots on August 08, 2013, 03:48:44 pm
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Well I know this sounds idiotic, but I am thinking of actually doing this. I have leaks on both sides of my basement, which is where I do all my bandsawing and stuff, so I really have to get these leaks taken care of. My landlord (we rent) ran a downspout to take the water in the gutters a little ways away from the leak on the outside (not really far enough of course), and had me try to fix the leak on the outside. Which didn't really do nothing of course. I have patched the cracks the water is coming in on the inside with some quikcrete hydrolic cement, but the water still seaped in real bad. So I went over that with some thuroseal, which is supposed to stop water seaping, and it still seaps right through. I know the gutters probably need to be cleaned out on the other side, but that side of the house is sort of my neighbors yard, and I don't know when they would let me clean them out, plus I really need my landlord to do it anyway because I don't have a ladder anyway. And I don't know when he will feel like doing it. If I had access to both sides of my house, I would make a big ramp for the water to flow down away from the house, but I don't. Anyway, since I am out of ideas, and I have a good amount of titebond 3, I was thinking of just painting a couple layers of the stuff over the thuroseal. The stuff seems to seal in moisture when I try to use it for sinewing, no matter what I do, so I figure it might help with the seaping water maybe? Is this a dumb idea, lol?
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TB3 shrinks as it dries. Try epoxy or better yet a silicone sealant...
epoxy would probably work good... i have fixed a crack in our porch with it... my mom was rather happy about that.
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TB3 shrinks as it dries. Try epoxy or better yet a silicone sealant...
epoxy would probably work good... i have fixed a crack in our porch with it... my mom was rather happy about that.
Hmmm, okee dokey.
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Keep this in mind- a normal glue(ca, titebond, wood glue, bla bla bla) will shrink as it dries. This makes them bad gap fillers... minus superglue cause it penetrates... plus CA is toxic. epoxy, on the other hand, is used for filling cracks for exactly the reasons I said- it doesn't shrink, its thick, its waterproof, and seals stuff.
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You'll be hard pressed to seal a basement from inside. If you don't already have it put a French drain along the outside walls.
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What Pat said is true,but I had that problem several years back and sprayed the inside wall with rubberized under coat,be sure to spray along the floor where the concrete meet the blocks also.That stopped mine. :) Also might put a pipe on the end of the gutter spout and take the water out away from the house should help. :) Still hard to fix a leak for the inside but you might slow it a bit at least. :)
Pappy
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I was thinking of trying that rubber spray, but I read a lot of bad reviews about the stuff online. Some said it wouldn't dry, or that very shortly after applying it would flake off, and that there was very little in the can for the money. What kind did you use Pappy? And I will definitely look up a french drain Pat B, thanks. Squirrel, do you recommend a brand of epoxy? The only thing with that is I am thinking that epoxy might be a tad expensive for the amount of area I need to cover, which is pretty large. I've actually never used it for anything though, so I don't know really. I just put the second coat of thuroseal on yesterday, and it rained yesterday evening, so I will go check it out this morning. It sucks, I haven't been able to do anything down there. Everything is molding and I wouldn't even think of bringing wood down there for the purpose of bow building. I usually prefer the heat over the cold, but now I can't wait for winter, haha. The stupid stuff says "water proof" right on the label, and it seaps right through. I followed the directions to the letter, it is the "super" kind which already has the acrylic addictive added in. I was talking to my barbor recently, and he said he fixed a lady's leak by putting a ramp away from the house made from clay he collected so the water wouldn't sit by the house. Also he ran a drain that dumped the water like 40 feet away from the house, is that what a french drain is?
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My cousin had super luck with drylok. It was 50-60 a gallon. But boy is it dry now.
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My cousin had super luck with drylok. It was 50-60 a gallon. But boy is it dry now.
Sounds good to me, will check that stuff out, thanks!
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Menards or Home Depot has it. Its super thick and a beetch to roll out, but incredible at sealing out actual moisture and dampness in the air. He used about 15-18 gallons on his basement which is essentially a double wide home. I think a guy could do the bottom half and be good.
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My cousin had super luck with drylok. It was 50-60 a gallon. But boy is it dry now.
Pearl, is the stuff you are talking about the "drylok extreme waterproofer"? It comes in a 30 dollar a gallon can at home depot, or is around 60 bucks online? They have a couple different kinds of drylok waterproofer it seems. Is it like a paint consistency? I might do the whole dang wall if it will help, or maybe the whole basement. I mean, It used to be like a waterfall through the wall every time it rained hard. After digging up outside the one side and throwing some quikcrete over top the water damaged concrete on the outside, I tore up the water damaged concrete out on the inside. It was coming through a crack that started at the top, and went down and to the left for about 10 feet. And this is cement, with big rock in it and stuff, not cinder blocks. I tore all the crumbly damaged cement out, which was a lot, and shoved a bunch of hydrolic quikcrete cement in the gap, and all around the place actually. Plus two coats of thuroseal water proof sealer. The water was still seeping through the 1st coat of thuroseal though, so I am not super faithful in the second coat. It rained last night though, and it seemed to be not as bad. I still think tb3 would fix the seeping water, ;D. I got like 2 and half gallons, and I figure it wouldn't take too much at all to coat it a couple times. I am thinking I am gonna try some of that drylok paint though.
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Menards or Home Depot has it. Its super thick and a beetch to roll out, but incredible at sealing out actual moisture and dampness in the air. He used about 15-18 gallons on his basement which is essentially a double wide home. I think a guy could do the bottom half and be good.
Thanks, will pick up some today!
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TooMany -
What Pat said> Ideally the outside of the wall would be trenched and a water barrier applied to the outside of the wall. Since it sounds like you do not have that option then on to the next plans. A French drain is a trench filled with gravel and perforated pipe like that used in sewer lines. The perforations allow water to seep into the pipe and be carried away. Otherwise a 4 inch plastic flex pipe attached to the end of the down spout and directed to an area which slopes away from the house. With that much leakage it may be more of a matter than simply cleaning the gutters. Before you apply anything to the inside of the wall you need to make sure it is clean and dry or it won't matter what you put on it. good luck in you adventure in home repair.
Ben
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I've had water issues in my basement. I've found the best way to keep it out is to just get the water away from the house, as others have suggested. Get those gutters cleaned out, extend the down spouts 10 feet away from the house, and if you can, build up the grade around the house. I realize you are renting, but if your landlord is at all concerned about his property, this is something he should be doing.
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I've had water issues in my basement. I've found the best way to keep it out is to just get the water away from the house, as others have suggested. Get those gutters cleaned out, extend the down spouts 10 feet away from the house, and if you can, build up the grade around the house. I realize you are renting, but if your landlord is at all concerned about his property, this is something he should be doing.
Ya, he's really a pretty good landlord in general, but with this issue he ain't very motivated to help me fix his house, haha. He's pretty old though, I think he might be in his fifty's my wife told me, so I would feel pretty bad rippen on him for it. So I understand an all. :) If he pays for the sealer and stuff than that is awesome and more than enough for me to be happy. When we first moved in, 7 years ago, my wife told him that there was a waterfall in the basement when it rained, so he has known for years though. I picked up some of that drylok stuff the other day and put a coat on a couple days ago. It is I think the third day, or might be the second, that it is still not dry. I put some fans down there on it, but I don't know what's going on. I am hoping that from the water that is seeping through the thuroseal that it is not hindering the curing of it, hopefully it will cure sometime soon. I need a respirator, the "low odor" on the label is bull when your in a area with no ventilation.
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Sooooo, none of this should be done by you if when you rented the house it included use of the basement. If the basement is unfinished and wasn't intended to be used that's another thing.
I would harp on the landlord until its fixed. He should be paying for both materials and labor to get it fixed right and be done with it. More slope away from the house and a french drain. When its dug up for a drain they can seal the OUTSIDE of the wall. Clean the gutters, extend the spout.
It's been my experience that once a basement leaks, nothing you can do from the inside will stop it. If water finds its way next to the wall it will get in, so keeping water away from the wall is the best option.
I am also a landlord and wouldn't dream of asking a tenant to fix something like this, that was obviously not their fault to begin with. If its really cheap rent and you want to stay you might just have to deal with water in the basement.
Patrick