Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Danzn Bar on July 20, 2013, 06:52:05 pm
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Hey Guys,
Before I go much further I need some help and comments on the below tiller. I'm having trouble with the big knot on the upper (left) limb. I think the pics show that it's a little stiff on both sides of the knot mostly on the upper side towards the tip. This is the bow that I floor tillered to brace. No long string. The brace pic is about 5.5" . I think I have some weight left to play with. But just wanted to get some suggestions on how to deal with this knot. The bottom limb (right) seems to me to look pretty good.
Appreciate any comments, thanks for looking. I'll try to get better pictures next time at about 18" draw. and we'll take another look.
Thanks
DBar
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It looks pretty good, so far, but the left limb looks a little stiffer coming out of the handle fade.
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May be we need someone else to look at it. LOL. The right limb looks a little stiff er out of the fades to me. Jawge
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Bill, the only thing I'm seeing is a little flat mid limb area around left knot, but since its at the knot I'm not sure it needs any adjustment. Pics are are tough to gauge minor tiller issues for me so take it for what it's worth. Looks like it will be a snappy shooter!
Tracy
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Thanks..............
Lesken, Jawge, Tracy,,
Lesken................. exactly what I thought until...........
What Jawge said about the left limb-----------
Then , Tracy I think I'll go a little further tomorrow on the draw length and see what happens..................
Thanks guys,
DBar
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First I'm assuming the last picture is the bow braced. It looks like the back of the bow at the handle is not level. Remember the back needs to level, even if both limbs bend there, they should bend evenly. DON"T tiller by trying to keep the string level. It will cause the tiller to go ALL WONKY (I did that once).
I have no experience with knot holes. Maybe Blackhawk with chime in. So take this advice with a grain of salt. The knot has been removed leaving just the hole, correct? From what I've seen on here, it looks like most folks just tiller through the hole. In theory, if your limb is 1 1/2 wide and 2 inches wide at the hole and the hole is 1/2 diameter, then you have 1 1/2 of "wood" at the hole the same as you do for the rest of the limbs. AGAIN, this theory is only speculation and may be complete BS.
What I would do is: measure and mark 2" intervals from the center of the bow out the knot on that limb them do the same out to the same distance on the other limbs. With the bow braced, measure from belly to string at each 2" mark. This will give you an idea of how to even up the bend and brace. Remember when you remove wood from the stiff limb it will relieve tension on the weaker limb. So, measure both of them again after removing wood and exercising the bow.
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Gota Hedge.........................
Thanks
DBar
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First thing is to finish chasing the ring as it looks like you've left a bit of the previous ring in the concavity in the middle of the knot. If you can't get a scraper in there then sandpaper and a bit of elbow grease will remove it.
How I see it is your left limb is quite a bit stronger, leave the inner limb alone and work on the rest. This bow isn't quite ready to be braced in my opion.
The limbs should at least be even strength before bracing.
Don't brace it again until the stronger limb is tamed!
I use a long string until at least 18 inch of draw and never come in under-weight.....the long string is your friend :) :) It allows you to put the stave under less strain while doing one of the most important bits of tillering.
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OK guys..............
I worked on the knot some and the stiff spots
Here is a pic at brace and 18" How does it look?
Also, a couple of the knot and tip
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Looking good to me, heck of a job on a stave like that...
I'm not going to offer an opinion on that baby... not from here...gotta get your hands on that sort of stave to see what's going on.
Del
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It looks better now, whatever you did!! ;)
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Looking really good.
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That's gonna be a shooter 8)
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Lookin' very sharp!
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Liken this one Bill
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Nice bends! Looks like you got it.
Tracy
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Much better now. :)
From now on I employ a little trick. Put your bow (unbraced) on your tillering board and trace the side profile onto the board. This gives you a definate reference to see where set is happening when you get further into the draw. Then tiller so there is zero set inner limb, a tad mid limb and the rest out to the tips. This method means you never need to hold the bow drawn. Just unbrace after you've exercised it and look where EXACTLY the set is and reduce following the above rule of thumb.
This is a real eye opener if you've never stuck to parrallel width = elliptical.....pyramid = arc of a circle.
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Another good looking bow from Bill. You like those statics don't you? Cant blame ya'!
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Good looking bow.Love the character. :)
Pappy
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Thanks everyone for all the nice words.
mikekeswick,
I think I'll try your suggestion, It might be more of a pyramid than parallel, hard to tell on one way or the other with all of the knots and waves in the limbs. But, it's defiantly closer to pyramid. I appreciate any suggestions. I always learn by doing something a little different. Even if I don't continue using the suggestion on future bows. I usually pick what works best for me after a few trys. I've heard it more than once on here "there's more ways to skin a cat than one".
I'll post some finish tiller pic;s in a few days, for more comments.
Thanks again all
DBar
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;DI'm befuddled......... don't understand this one, maybe you guys can help. Please I encourage corrective criticism. I final tillered it very slowly to full draw on the tillering tree,(top limb to the left) looked pretty good to me. maybe a little flat spot in the bottom limb about mid limb, Then I ended up getting my wife to take a couple of me at full draw. It doesn't even look like the same bow!!!! the flat spot is in the top limb and the bottom is bending more than the top. I tried to blame my wife for the picture taking, but that didn't fly. ;) :) I am pretty sure that I'm pulling the string in the same spot on the tree and in the hand. ??? the back is like a roller coaster, the whole tillering process has been a good experience. I just thought I nailed this one on the tree. But the money shot proved different. Any suggestions ???
Thanks
DBar
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Looks good. My short osage in working on has a knarly knot on it. I like the character they add. How long is that bow?
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Bill, is there any prop twist in the limb? Have the wife take another pic from the other side, with you facing the opposite direction in the pic. See how it looks to you from the other side. Sometimes with a little twist it can look
different depending on which side you view from. I always start checking my tiller in the mirror, drawing by hand when I am getting close to finishing a bow rather than viewing on the tree. Of course I can still mess up on tiller
with the best of em'. ;)
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Is the top limb maybe a little stiff about a fist off the fade?
Lovely looking stick. It's strange but for some reason I can't judge tiller on the board unless the top limb is right, caught myself canting my head looking at them :)
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Blaflair,
The bow is 65" ntn and I'm drawing it about 28". That makes me look at it a little different, I may not be pulling the bow back as far in hand as it is on the tree?
Greg,
Yes maybe a little prop twist is happening as I pull it. I'll try and get some other pics from the other side.
dwardo,
maybe a little stiff out of the top fade, but the top fade is made a little longer to accept the cut in rest.
The two pic are from different sides of the bow I'll try and get a couple more different / same sides.
Anyway I like the way it shoots. The way its been raining around here it's hard to get out and shoot it as much as I need.
Thanks a bunch for the comments,
DBar
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Dan, your bow is a good example of why the tillering tree is referred to as the "lying tree". With how your gripping the bow and how you're tillering using your tree, there's no way you can account for the bow hand pressure being exerted on the lower limb. I'm not sure where you placed your arrow pass, but what I see from how you're gripping your bow, 1 1/2"-2" above center would be appropriate.
Next time you try this design, get your regular string on early, tiller per design, and feel for even limb strain as you draw the bow (yes, by hand). Use a mirror often to adjust tiller if need be. Way I do things.............Art B
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One of my other hobbies is bonsai and one of the standard ways of seeing problems is to take a picture of it or look at it in a mirror. For some reason staring directly at doesn't show the problems like a mirror or a picture. This one I know about-it works.
Don