Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Tiredtim on July 18, 2013, 09:11:10 am
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Hello all. I am about embark (no pun intended) on making my first cherry bow. I would like any advice. Would I need to get rid of all of the sap wood or could I use it for backing?
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I believe you treat it like any other white wood and just use the back of the stave as the back of the bow. I have no actual experience with cherry so someone with actual knowledge may have a different opinion.
Grady
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Did I just hear a loud BOOOOOOM!!!!!! :laugh: :laugh: ;D
What kind of cherry is it specifically? But no matter what it is I'd back it with rawhide at the very least
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Id suggest the rawhide as Chris mentioned and I would also make it at least 68" ntn and say 2" wide for now. Cherry is brittle and needs help to be a bow. Ever notice a little wind blows and cherry trees are on the ground first?
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Cherry will make a bow, if you can keep it from chrysalling. It requires perfect tillering, and is very intolerant of mistakes.
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Just under the bark is good.
Have only ever had one cherry bow explode and I deserved it. Silk backing can help no end.
Most of my bows were around 62. One even at 59.
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Dwardo I think your variety of cherry is different that what we have around here. Your color even appears different than ours. Ours is very brittle and soft, always the first trees to blow over and make a mess it seems.
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Thanks guys. If it has to be perfect, I'm in trouble. Grady, so, you've made a few bow with cherry?
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I'll ask again...what kind of cherry is it? We really need to know to help you best..as there are oodles of different cherries with varying different degrees of bending properties...and yeah...I've played with " cherry"..
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Blackhawk, it's a wild black cherry.
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I have not, it is very pretty wood and I would like to give it a go. I have a nice straight black cherry tree in my back yard I have thought about cutting. I will probably cut it a little later this summer and have a crack ;) at this winter. I don't mind breaking bows I have plenty of experience at it.
Grady
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Black cherry is very inelastic in tension,and does not bend very far unbacked before unexpectedly snapping in tension without warning due to my bend tests with it....in most cases it is best and wise to at least back cherry with rawhide...then comes design which must be long and wide due to its inelasticity ...and then you must execute this design thru good patient tillering slowly teaching it how to bend.....my analogy for black cherry is like playing Russian roulette with 2 or 3 rounds in the chamber...if ya get a good piece(empty chamber in the gun)and execute it correctly you can get a nice bow...but look out if there's a bullet in that chamber when ya pull that trigger...but you won't know its in there untill you do pull that trigger.....
I know its sounds like I'm bashing it and trying to steer you clear of it,but I'm not....go ahead and "learn"...and I hope it works out for you......if your new at bow making..which it sounds like it...I'd go long wide and rawhide,and bend in the handle....specific stats will pend on what you want it to pull weight and draw wise...
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Thanks Blackhawk. Yeah, I'm new. I have made a few of board bows. A couple work but I want to make a selfbow and hunt this season. I have a lot of work ahead of me. Any advice would be great. Thanks again.
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What state are you in Tim?
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I am smack dab in the center of Arkansas.
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is it just me or is that sap wood to thick? if he got that to bow dimmensions i would imagine that the limbs would only be sap wood and heartwood in the handle. i may be wrong :-\
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Can you chase down any variety of hickory or elm perhaps? Im also not trying to talk you out of it, just offering better options to ponder.
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I am smack dab in the center of Arkansas.
I'm pretty close, I work in Little Rock and live in Malvern.
Grady
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I plan on going as close to the heartwood as I can with leaving some of the sap wood. Very cool Grady. We'll have to get together and you teach me some things.