Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Flintknapping => Topic started by: JackCrafty on June 25, 2013, 03:17:36 am
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Here's one of my latest videos on the application of concentrated force using indirect percussion. Hope you enjoy. :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3UiDhpaFFI
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Another great video Patrick!
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Hey, Jon! I hoped you would chime in. I like a good argument. >:D
I'm speaking mainly from my own experiences with abo tools and the rock I've used in the past.
Compared to copper, I've gone though a LOT more material. This is especially true with raw stone. I use a lot of stone and I break a lot of antler when I work the raw stuff. And the failure rates for tools and rocks goes up when I switch points styles or learn a new technique. Every point style requires a large investment in time. The learning curves are more difficult, IMO.
My abo tool supplies take up at least 5 times more room than my copper tool supplies. The cost of my abo tool supplies is also MUCH higher than my copper tools and steel tools. I think I've spent $600 on my abo tool supplies... probably more. Maybe $80 on my copper and steel tools.
Anyway, I'd like to hear comments from as many of you as possible. Is it just me? Is abo very wasteful or not?
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Moose antler: $250
Whitetail antler: $90 (at least 3 batches of tines @ $30 each batch)
Alaskan caribou antler: $50
Braintan: $50
Misc. ivory: $40
Elk antler: $60
Axis deer antler: $20
Deer bones: $20
Buffalo horn: $30
Elk bones: $20
Cow bones: $60
and some stuff I probably missed...
Copper grounding wire: $10
Copper 1/4" rod: $20
UHMW Plastic rods: $30
Copper ball: $25
Wally-World ice pics: $15
Mild steel rod: $10
Copper caps: $10
and probably some misc stuff like nails...
I think the actual numbers are higher than I quoted (if you add these up), but you get the idea.
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I know I'm not as experienced as most of you bit I have been using the same stone as Pat (he sent me it) and to tell you the truth, I don't think it is. In my two latest videos, the stone was raw I think and I didn't have resharpen that often, may be just two times with the pressure and never with the antler batons. I think it really depends on style. Your style, Pat, seems to be rather rough on the antler while mine isn't nearly as much. I think technique also has a lot to it as well. If one does a lot of vertical and horizontal punch work, antler would last even longer.
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Thanks, Don! I saw your comment there but forgot to respond.
Mike, yes, style has a lot to do with how material is used. It also depends on how much knowledge you pick up from others. If you have to do a lot of experimenting and trial-and-error, then waste increases. If you know your material and don't push your tools to the limit at all times, then waste decreases.
One of the biggest things leading to failure and waste, at least for me, has been learning the limitations of all the material. And I'm still learning.
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I agree. I do a lot of trial and error but I don't push as much as I probably should. But as odd as it may be, I seem to have an intuitive feel for antler. I've also have learned, even with raw stone, there is not much need for heavy abrading. I normally just brush the edge and that's it. Punch work on the other hand, that's still beyond me.
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Says who?
:o
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Git him, Patrick!! >:D
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Ok, I am sending you both a nice block of sandstone. First man to turn out a USEABLE POINT wins!
Until such time, quitcher whining! >:D
That being said, I just traded a stick for two rocks. Hackberry STAVE for two large hunks of Oregon obsidian. I fear this is me sticking a toe into the waters of THE DARK SIDE!
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>:D
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>:D
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Nice work! I have tried to duplicate your indirect percussion technique with a wood billet and Ishi stick but haven't had any success. Is there some special technique or materials (I noticed you use plastic). I really would love to learn your style because standard percussion and pressure flaking is taking a toll on old injuries :)
Also in the video... the edge of the point at the end of the video... would you consider this "hunting sharp"? I just want to compare to my points so I can have more confidence in my points for the upcoming season (first hunting with all stone)...
BTW, thank you for taking the time to make these videos! As a mediocre knapper I appreciate the lessons!
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Yes, I would consider the arrowhead to be hunting sharp at the end. And thanks! I'm always very glad to hear that my vids are helping.
As far a there being a "special technique", the only thing is the tools have to "snap" or feel solid. If the tools are rubbery or soft (like wood and Delrin) then you will loose a lot of energy and they won't work.
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Patrick, I think you're right. The wood is sort of "dead"... I even hollowed out the end of the billet and poured lead into it, I thought the added weight would make a difference... But it didn't. Where do you purchase your ABS (?) Plastic from because I would like to see about getting some...
Also do you think the points below will "make meat" or not. Be honest, I am a big boy... I can take constructive criticism :)
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The points look pretty good to me. Some may be a bit chunky. Have you tried hafting the thicker ones? If they are pointy and fit onto an arrow, then you have won half the battle. :)
I get the plastic from Grainger. I order online. It's called Rod, UHMW-PE, White.
Here's a link for the 3/4" diameter stuff:
---http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Rod-Stock-1YVF4?Pid=search
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Man, you make knapping look so easy...
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Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, some are a bit chunky, but since my arrows are rough leaf dogwood shoots, I have a little more room to mount them. I have mounted a few made out of thunder chert and they seem to be holding up well to repeated shooting.
And thanks for the ordering info! I am excited to trying this style of knapping out!
I found out tonight while working some raw chert that they should work this season... On the final pass, the flaker slipped off platform and sliced my index finger up to the knuckle... Just another blood sacrifice to the rock gods! :D