Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: loefflerchuck on June 06, 2013, 08:55:47 pm
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Hi,
I've made about a dozen bighorn bows to this date that are finished or on the drying rack. I'll use any half decent glue for sinew backing wood, but for handle splices and sinew backing horn where the reflex makes a deep C and is way over drawn, I need really good glue. I make it myself but am tired of this process. I have bought decent glue from Moscow hide n fur. What I am looking for is the best source for the best glue. Anybody have any sources?
Thanks
Chuck
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Knox Gelatin. Probably the strongest form of hide glue, highly filtered, and is quite cheap to buy.
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Contact Matt Wirwiki on here.
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...or James Parker(Robustus). He has built many horn bows of many nationalities. He might have a suggestion about glue for you.
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Thanks everybody. I have heard knox is more than fine for the sinew backing, but not the best for horn splices or lamination in highly stressed designs.
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Interesting. Never heard that one, but I am young and inexperianced...
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I did a google search for "fish swim bladder glue" and found a guy in france that sells it, from what I can find out fish bladder glue is some of the best glue to bind horn to wood in composite bows. I would post a link but it is forbidden, if you can't find it PM me and I will send you the link. It seemed a bit expensive at 40 euro for 100g dried glue.
Grady
I went ahead and sent you the link.
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Thanks Grady, The best glue for this is good hide glue with some of this bladder glue mixed in to slow gelling. Thanks for the link. My nosey neighbor half jokingly asked me if I was making meth when he saw me wearing rubber gloves pouring glue through a screen into a baking pan in my garage.
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You should have said "yeah you wana try some" he may have been fishing for a new source. >:D
Grady
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Contact Matt Wirwiki on here.
x100
Ive NEVER had his glue crack at first draw, crack later or even make a noise. Ive never had sinew come up on any bows.
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Try Crazy Crow i have used their hide glue for a while now it has worked for everything i have used it for so far. Its not verry expensive and you dont have to make it.
Katt
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Chuck, I know what a pain it is to make hide glue, I make my own but I have made a new version of my hide glue that is more the thickness of water when finished but seems to hold much stronger than my past methods of making glue.
I have used scrap leg tendon sinews (cut into pieces with scissors) with one chunk of rawhide the sixe of a cocktail napkin, I then boil and keep adding water this takes about three to four hours on a low boil when the liquid is a nice moca color it is done, I filter through a strainer and mash out all the juices with a potato masher then filter again through a coffee filter. This method has produced the strongest hide glue I have ever created. When it cools it will be like jello, I then cut it into blocks and wrap in tin foil and put in the freezer so it does not mold. the granual hide glue like crazy crow and moscow hide and fur sell are the same an are ok for sinew backing but theis method will hold your joints very well. Liquid hide glue sucks, it has a retardant in it that makes it dry super slow and seems to always stay sticky even after months of curing.
just a thought.
Eric
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Check out Dick Blick art catalog. They sell good hide glue in a quart can. I used some on my last two sinew backed bows and it worked better for me than Knox or other hide glue I've used. Seems like it was less than $10 for the can.
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Thanks everybody again. Pat, I used hide glue for canvas sizing 20 years ago a few times and remember it working great. Someone found a place for me with good hide glue rated at 315. Good enough for anything. I know I cant post a site but hope it's okay to hint at the place. It's a Tools for woodworking shop. They sell it by the pound
Thanks again for the help.
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You can tell the name of a company, you just can't have a direct link to that company.
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Bjorn Industries. He is da man when it comes to hide glue, they have many different grades. Markus.