Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: ionicmuffin on May 22, 2013, 01:42:45 am
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Ok, so here's where I'm at. I have to finish up finalizing tips and detail work for sanding, but over all I'm very satisfied. It looks like its about 40#@26". I have to say, I wasn't sure if I would be able to shoot left handed...Turns out I have NO ability to do so accurately, lol.
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Brace and full draw.
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That's about as nice as they come there Muffin. I can't find anything wrong with that one. Great job!
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that's looking good muffy, can't wait to see it dolled up, bub
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Thank you Randman and bub. I'll post what I get done tonight. Maybe I will be on the oil tomorrow or Friday.
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I had wondered how your tips turned out, ...got any pix of those???
OneBow
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ill grab some when i finish them up, but here is kind of what they look like at the moment.
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Also, i have a question. I was going to go pick up some deft to put on the bow so the ipe will actually dry, then I was going to rub it with tru oil the rest of the way. Does it matter what type of finish I get?(satin, semi gloss, gloss)
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Tru-oil, only has one type of finish. High gloss. Which is fine and you can give it a nice satin finish anyway you choose.
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yeah, but apparently tru oil doesn't dry on ipe. so I've read that you can use Deft to cover the surface of the ipe, then you can put tru oil on top.
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yeah, but apparently tru oil doesn't dry on ipe. so I've read that you can use Deft to cover the surface of the ipe, then you can put tru oil on top.
Tru oil dries on everything.
1.Spray a light coating of shellac
2.rub on the Tru oil let dry for 2-4 hrs
3. After 3 coats of T/O sand with 400G
4. Rub with finest steel wool
5.once 6-9 coats are done rub down with a fine wet abrasive for a satin finish
Done.
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ok, that saves me the cost of deft. now i just need shellac... lol, but seriously, thank you Bryce, ill finish up hopefully by monday for sure.
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make shore to pretty up those tips, lots of examples here for referance
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Heres the tips after thinning, they are around 1/4 inch wide by about 1/2 deep. Kinda scary going this thin
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OK, so I'm starting the tru-oil process. I've put a layer of superglue on the handle and on the tips to seal up the Ipe. I hope to be finished with the bow by about Monday. It looks awesome! I really can not wait to finish this one and get string done!
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You've come along way, Muffin. That's a bow. I have tru oil on ipe and it looks and acts great. I would move the string grooves down away from the end of the tips a little.
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Shall i leave the originals in to keep it from looking all awkward?
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First, get other opinions before you do anything. Structurally you might be ok the way it is because your string angle will actually be greater than the angle that your groove shows, so your string will be pulling more downward on the tip I think. Still, there's not much meat above your string groove.
I personally would make the string groove the new tip of your bow by removing that horn of wood above the groove and cutting a new groove down lower. But you don't have alot of overlay to play with so I might grind that one off and start anew. In fact, I know I would put another on there. But I don't want to sway you into going into something that may cause you to ruin your bow. Because the tips are pretty thin up there now and you have to be careful about working there.
It depends on you.
Definately don't attempt something at this stage that you are not sure of.
If its ok with you I'll post pics of my tips that i just did, on this thread tomorrow, and talk about it some more.?
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sure that would be great! id also like to hear from others as to what i should attempt or not attempt and what not. Its been shot and also brought all the way down to 27" so its doing pretty well. I know its kinda thin there but its only 40 lbs maybe 42 at 27"
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Well since its a tradebow I would just leave it. Your recipient is more than likely a decent bowyer and can fix it his/her self if so inclined.
I am no expert, by any stretch of the imagination, when it comes to tip size and overlays, but I know enough to add that there is NO practical reason to make small tips on a selfbow. The only thing you add is the likelihood that they will get damaged.
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as long as the string stays on and the tips dont torque one way or the other should be alright.
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Ok, then ill just let my recipient decide if the feel comfortable with it or not because it doesn't do any twisting of limbs
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Ok. Here's some pics of my tradebow tips, unfinished. Not sure why I'm posting these but just an excuse to post some pics of my tradebow:
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those are what I kind of wanted to get, but it turned out a bit different. I've seen some tips that are so thin its just crazy. First person that comes to name guilty of thin tip disorder is blackhawk. no offence there Chris, just pointing out that you seem to have the frenzy. Anyway, here is my progress, I used sharpie to mark all the stuff on the bow and then just rubbed tru oil on top after only a few minutes. I did put 2 coats of tru oil on before hand and afterwards i have one that's drying right now on top of the markings. i also have found this antler rack very helpful, it holds the bow without it touching anything but the tips, when i finish the main work ill go back and tru oil the tips to match. I hope you have enjoyed seeing me break 5 bows and coming up with one that works.
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lookin goooooooood.
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Way to go, that's one cracker of a bow, Graham! Somebody gonna be real happy to pull that outa the shipping box!
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thanks guys, tomorrow I'm going to my fiends house to have him shoot it in for me because hes left handed, I've got arrows marked out exactly 26"
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Skill and talent can only carry one so far. Dogged determination is what I find to be the more admirable quality in most any pursuit. Congrats on the bow. It's a beauty and you've earned the right to be proud of her.
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Thanks SLIMBOB, i haven't finished yet, but i know if it holds out through shooting it in it will work out well.
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Almost done guys! I finished the string(minus serving and string silencers) and I still want to put on some fur mufflers on the pass so it doesn't damage the wood and it will pass quieter. Once this all is said and done I'll see if it holds for an hour of shooting, and I'll see if the groupings are good. May be shipping out today but most likely tomorrow!
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OK, so I'm having an issue, I have located the places where the string oscillates the most but they are different lengths from the tips. however, after measuring the distance between the spots it winds up being 34" and the spot where it was plucked is smack dab in the center of those 34" so I'm wondering if it's possible to have the string silencers different distances from the tips but still do the maximum job of silencing.
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I place string silencers about 12" from the tip on top and bottom. I don't actually measure but use the width of my hand spread out plus a few inches more more. It always seems to work well for me.
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I fold my string in half, then in half again and they go right there in the bend closest to the tips
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Thanks guys, got the silencers installed and now i just need to shoot in the bow and i also need to add a arrowpass muffler... so close...
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OK! Here are some pictures from today's shoot. My friend was really excited and asked if I would make him one because he enjoyed shooting it so much.
The shoot went super! He said that he couldn't feel any hand shock and it doesn't make more than a slight sound when the arrow leaves. I know for a fact he over drew it a few times about an inch over what it was supposed to go, that's good news for me since I really didn't know if it would hold with the tip the way it was. Here is some good news as well, I've figured out that so long as your string angle doesn't pass the thickest point of support your in good shape, if it passes that and goes too far then it will snap. I think I really lucked out on the angle and the amount of wood still there.
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Ok, so I shipped it today, I shipped it in a 4 i diameter pipe with a length of 66 inches. The handle and tips have been buble wrapped to the point where it doesn't move in the pipe. The lady thought it was a 6 inch pipe and so shes all like "that will be 30 $ please. I almost walked out of there because parcel post at 30$ is too much for what I had at the time. I asked her if it would have made a difference if it had been a 3 inch pipe, and she said no, then she realized that she had put it as a 6 inch pipe and that it was a 4 incher. It wound up much cheaper and I'm so glad it did.
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Nice bend, muffin man!
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Just a question. Based on this bow how many more do you think I would need to make before I would be at regular trade quality? This trade has really opened my eyes to my inexperience. I probably wont be in any trades for a while because of school but I was interested, especially taking into account the fact that I broke 5 before getting one.
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well you asked, you broke what 5 bows and ended up making a hickory bow in the red oak board bow swap, the deadline was what, a couple a months ago too right, if it was me I'd try and build quite a few more bows, but hell next years trade wont start for quite a while so get building
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yup, kind of figured i have a ways to go. This experience has shown me that the wood is the dictator and the bowyer its humble servant. Some of those dictators are forgiving, other are harsh. You may get really good at making bows, but that because you've gotten to know the dictator and know what it likes, at any moment you could go wrong on something very small and get an explosion.
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The way to not break bows is to follow the golden rules - un-cut fibers from nock to nock, no thick spots no thin spots and an even taper. ;)
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You may try different dictators, but all bow to king Osage. >:D
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Osage seems to be a just King. Nice to work with but the work he requires is hard and takes lots of effort, also pretty forgiving from what ive seen!
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Osage makes a great bow if you build and design it properly. But like all woods garbage in=garbage out. and just when you feel like you got it all figured out you'll have a bow blow apart and it will make you feel like you're back to ground 0.
good job on finishing it up and being a man of your word and sending something out
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You may try different dictators, but all bow to king Osage. >:D
Osage is just plain amazing I love it and I've yet to break an Osage bow
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Just a question. Based on this bow how many more do you think I would need to make before I would be at regular trade quality? This trade has really opened my eyes to my inexperience. I probably wont be in any trades for a while because of school but I was interested, especially taking into account the fact that I broke 5 before getting one.
Thats the misconception about bow trades. There is no certain level of quality required to join in. Being able to make a decent tillered bow that wont hurt somebody is all that matters. Until this bow you werent even close to that point. Your a fuzz closer now. Next swap is months away, make 10 more.
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Good job muffin. That bears a striking resemblance to the one i made for my TG bow last year, even the grip!! Cept mine had a camo backing. Looks real good.
As for the swap, PD's got it right (like he needed my endorsement ::)). I believe success begets success, so I expect we'll be seeing more shooters from you now that this one is under your belt. How fast you progress all depends on how much you put into the learning curve my friend, and how willing you are to listen and follow the basic rules (I'm still a little stubborn at times myself ::)).
Make a bunch more over the summer/fall and get comfortable with the process. I'd say when you can start a bow project fully believing that it's gonna come out a shooter (as opposed to firewood), then you're ready for the trade. ;)