Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Accipiter on May 04, 2013, 10:02:59 pm
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Ok, so I just got work on a really nice straight piece of California Bay today, not too many knots and no visible twist in the bark. Split it and had about a 80 degree spiral over 5'. This wouldn't bother me so much except that literally every piece of wood I've split has done the same thing (vine maple, 2 serviceberry, dogwood) , except for good old Ocean spray which splits super straight every time. I just start a split at one end with a hatchet and then progress down the natural split with a the hatchet and wedge. Am I doing something wrong or am I just getting horrible luck with wood?
Here's a photo of what I'm doing (you can kinda of see it spiraling):
(http://i.imgur.com/j5MAdfR.jpg)
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I leave the wedge in the split, and pound it down with a sledge. Could be that you are applying splitting force to only the top bit of the wood.
I used to split locust like that and it would twist like crazy.
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It twists because that is the natural grain of the tree. If the tree has straight grain it will split straight. If you try to saw it out, you will have a lot of grain violations in the stave which is bad news.
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It twists because that is the natural grain of the tree. If the tree has straight grain it will split straight. If you try to saw it out, you will have a lot of grain violations in the stave which is bad news.
x2
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It twists because that is the natural grain of the tree. If the tree has straight grain it will split straight. If you try to saw it out, you will have a lot of grain violations in the stave which is bad news.
+3
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Well, thats unfortunate :-\. I don't mind cutting down trees but I'd rather get something out them than kindling. Any pointers on how to tell if a tree is spiral grained before you try to cut it down/split it? Any locations or species to avoid?
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Well, thats unfortunate :-\. I don't mind cutting down trees but I'd rather get something out them than kindling. Any pointers on how to tell if a tree is spiral grained before you try to cut it down/split it? Any locations or species to avoid?
Look at the bark.
If it even shows a tiny bit of spiral, don't cut it.
Also don't cut trees that grow alone in a windy habitat, they tend to be REALLY twisty even if the bark looks streight.
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Twist is easily removed. You should be able to still use that tree. Follow the grain and rough out the bow. Get the limbs thin enough to start bending. Clamp the handle area in the vise. I put clamps and weights on each limb tip. Start heating the limb and when you get the wood the right temp. you will see it start to untwist. Go a little past straight because it will spring back a little. Do the same to the other limb. I put a support under the limb so it doesn't sag under the weight on the end. That is how I remove twist. I have never worked with the wood that you have so I don't know how well it heat bends. You might need to use steam instead.
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Look at the bark of the tree and try to spot any spiraling of the grain. Just don't cut that tree. I straddle the tree. Start the spit with the hatchet and alternate with 2 metal wedges. I use a 2 lb sledge. Jawge
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That doesn't look bad at all, you should be able to get at least 1 bow outa that.
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Thanks for the tips, I'm sure I will have plenty of chances to put them into practice! The bark seems to be indicative of twist only in some species (serviceberry), because this one looked totally straight. And ya, I think I can salvage a bow out of it, just not as long. Better luck next time I suppose.