Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: osagejack on April 18, 2013, 11:15:04 am
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here is a photo of some Tennessee osage lets see some photos of your osage just another reason we bleed orange and white here,, ;D
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Dang,
I wish I could get my hands on a osage log. It doesn't grow out here in Pa though. BL is the closest thing i have.
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Now that's a nice one Mike. :)
Pappy
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there are a few osage trees in pa,,i saw a guy at denton hill one year that had found a few,, but good black locust is almost as good as osage,, whew I am having to take a break from removing sapwood from osage, that's why I on computer so much this week I take a lot of breaks,,the local high school has ask me to come talk to the kids,,and talk about working osage, to show them how hard you haft to work if you don't stay in school, ;D
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Dang,
I wish I could get my hands on a osage log. It doesn't grow out here in Pa though. BL is the closest thing i have.
Sorry that's my fault...cus I cut it all >:D
Seriously tho there's plenty of osage in pa...its hit or miss in pockets with certain areas...ya just gotta go out n drive n look... ;)
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Ugh! If I bled orange and white I would have to exanguinate myself.
Grady
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Does everybody take that sapwood off? I was taking sapwood off of some seasoned osage yesterday, and the stuff seems to have some great tension strength. Why not leave it on? Just because of the bugs and the checking?
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Ugh! If I bled orange and white I would have to exanguinate myself.
Grady
...now THAT was funny! Sooooouuuueeeeyyyyy!!!
OneBow
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I have never left any sapwood on I have had heard of a few who have did it,,pure sapwood is weak and brittle,,if you have ever noticed when working old osage the sapwood is brittle ,,I think the sapwood that has made good bows,,is the last layer of sapwood before the hart wood,,there is usually one layer that is half sapwood and half wood, if you have ever noticed when you work down to a ring and it Is orange in places and white in places but is the same ring; I usually take off an extra layer to make sure all sapwood is removed,
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here is a photo of some Tennessee osage lets see some photos of your osage just another reason we bleed orange and white here,, ;D
Until that last sentence I really liked osage. Now I have to go burn my whole stash and cut some hackberry. Roll Tide!!!!
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Here's a pic for ya. It's from East Tennessee.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y406/Gsulfridge/98243570-580E-49C7-9F72-E50B2D4C927E-4270-000008A35A388A40_zps64a6d639.jpg)
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here is a photo of some Tennessee osage lets see some photos of your osage just another reason we bleed orange and white here,, ;D
Until that last sentence I really liked osage. Now I have to go burn my whole stash and cut some hackberry. Roll Tide!!!!
Actually, there are four states where Osage is a native tree, Missouri, Arkansas, Oklahoma, and Texas. All Osage anywhere else was captured, hauled away from it's native home, and obliged to try to survive in the foriegn soils of the ones that stole them away. (I think I feel a tear welling up in the corner of my eye.) :'( :'( :'(
Also, please note that only one of those four states actually uses the actual color of Osage,(which ain't orange OJ), in it's team colors, ...... . . . . . .MIZZZZZOOOOUUUURAH!!!
OneBow
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Here's a pic for ya. It's from East Tennessee.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y406/Gsulfridge/98243570-580E-49C7-9F72-E50B2D4C927E-4270-000008A35A388A40_zps64a6d639.jpg)
Nice rings and nice color on that one
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I have it all from very wide rings to rings so close they look as one.
The best performing bow I have made to date was made from a set of these billets, I think.
I came down to the wider rings for the bows back. I have dropped the finished bow poundage from 75# to 65# to 56# to 48# over the last 5 years for the owner. Still a low set, rocket launcher of a bow.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/tightring.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/bow%20making/tightring.jpg.html)
I will change the picture if I find out this wasn't the wood as I have two of the same billets left to make me a bow out of.
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Good Lord look at those ring's. Think I may even have to work a bit to cut through them. Looks like a great starter piece for me...hint hint, wink wink. I'm just sayin.
Paul F.
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that is some nice looking second growth osage,,very dence ,, seems like to far north the rings are thin to far south to thick,, seems tn is just right,,of course I might be predjuice,,,,that is some nice looking osage eric,,
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Good lookin sage!!!
Does everybody take that sapwood off? I was taking sapwood off of some seasoned osage yesterday, and the stuff seems to have some great tension strength. Why not leave it on? Just because of the bugs and the checking?
I like osage sapwood as well. So many cool things you can do with it. Make it look like overlays and cool handle risers.
It does seem to check within minutes of removing bark (<--exaggeration of course).
(http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh544/bryceott/0EEC1D06-5845-4889-932C-3F6D7E70F266-20236-000012809AD98EB9.jpg)
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Some nice osage there.
Osage sapwood is fine on a bow provided: the ring is good and thick: it was collected in the winter when the sap is down; bark is removed, and the back well sealed.
Sapwood seems more susceptible to developing rot, if harvested in summer, especially in high humidity, or rain, or is left outside before being processed.
I think the not using sapwood practice developed when guys just cut it, left the bark on to season. When you process wood like that bugs and or fungus usually gets in and makes the sapwood useless.
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That makes sense. Same reason to take the bark of juniper and such. Those darn insects
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Some nice osage there.
Osage sapwood is fine on a bow provided: the ring is good and thick: it was collected in the winter when the sap is down; bark is removed, and the back well sealed.
Sapwood seems more susceptible to developing rot, if harvested in summer, especially in high humidity, or rain, or is left outside before being processed.
I think the not using sapwood practice developed when guys just cut it, left the bark on to season. When you process wood like that bugs and or fungus usually gets in and makes the sapwood useless.
I don't think the thickness of the growth ring means anything the Point of having the back to a single ring is to have a nice uniform surface where no splinters can lift the thickness of the ring shouldn't matter