Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bushboy on April 05, 2013, 07:17:51 pm
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Hey all,I'm kinda getting the hang of board bows ,but this staves offers up some new challenges. Having undulation on the backside on both the length and width I am kinda stimeed how to begin?I don't mean to be to vague as I ususal,but that's me. Should I pick a ring and wedge spilt it a ring or two above it ,then remove the early wood carefully ,leaving the knots higher?the rings on the pictured end are quite thick,prob 1/4 or moreand the stump end are quite tight,maybe less than an 1/8.the stave is 68" long and the pictured end is 2-3/16 wide x 2-3/4 deep and simular dimentions on the opposing end will I be able to heat treat the twist out pictured and if so at what part of the build be the best time to do this?th'x bb!
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Her she is.
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What wood is that?
If it is osage...
All I have to say is get that twist out, and you will have a nice stave.
Maybe keep that back ring? Leave the knots high, and maybe back it.
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Yes, osage orange.
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I wouldn't worry about that twist. Its not enough to warrant all the heating required to remove it, and most of it will disappear as you rough out and tiller.
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#1....drawknife and chase the second or third ring down and seal the back with shellac for safety insurance
#2...layout and cutout your front profile on the back following the grain contours
#3....reduce to floor tiller or where you can about short brace the bow
#4...put it over a form and heat it up with a heat gun inducing 2-3" of reflex....this will take most the offending twist out...there might be a lil left but dont sweat it cus that isn't a whole lot to worry about to begin with anyways....make a form if you don't have one cus you'll need one anyways
#4...tiller...etc...
And the end with the bigger rings is the stump end,not the way you mentioned it fyi
That staves a walk in the park ;)
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No different than boards, your thickness taper rules. Keep the side to side thickness nutz and keep the taper moving with no thick spots.
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The thickness taper is what I,m confused about cuz across the width. In spots there's as much as a 1/2 " in difference from side to side if that makes sense?
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Oh no...the worlds not perfectly flat and straight anymore...ahhhhhhhh!!!!! What do we do...lol :laugh:
Once you lay it out and cut it out half of that will go away...and it may only be like that at the end of the stave...things will be much easier to see when you are actually on the ring your going to use....and when you draw a carpeneter line or facet line along each side you will follow the contour of the back on each side of the stave...stop thinking perfectly rectangular ;)
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Thank bro,how come it dosen't grow like house trim?lol?!
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Read my reply #4 here in this thread where I describe and show some pics on how to facet and draw a carpenters line following the contours of the back of the bow along each side and how to reduce down to each line at angles...dang...that was ahwile ago..lol
https://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,28657.0/nowap.html
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Thank bro,how come it dosen't grow like house trim?lol?!
I don't think I'd make bows if it all grew like house trim ;)
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Hawk, I think you missed a step between #1 and #2. #1B split the belly stave out. There's 2 bows in that stave. UNLESS the other end is a lot thinner. :) Trying to be a trouble maker. ;)