Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: wolfsire on October 21, 2007, 05:03:36 pm
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Living in Las Vegas there are not a lot of trees to cut down so Ive been looking at the leavings of others. In another thread I will show my finds of tamarisk, but here is what I am looking at now.
If anyone can share some thoughts about possibly making a bow out of this stick, I would appreciate it.
Here are some pics of the stick. It is about 57 inches, not counting the curves and about one inch wide at the small end.
You can see it is far from straight.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i264/wolfsirebella/acacia3.jpg)
It is also very twisted.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i264/wolfsirebella/acacia4.jpg)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i264/wolfsirebella/acacia5.jpg)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i264/wolfsirebella/acacia6.jpg)
The rings are off center. The show up better in negative.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i264/wolfsirebella/acacia7.jpg)
I think the wood is of appropriate hardness. I think it is some form of acacia, probably from one of the trees shown.
Found the in the desert lot behind this house. Had to knock off the thorns before I could even cut it.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i264/wolfsirebella/acacia2.jpg)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i264/wolfsirebella/acacia1.jpg)
So what do you think? All Ive ever done so far is bundle bows. For my first, something very low weight would be appropriate. I just broke the bow I was making for my wife and she wants something light.
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You should be able to pull off a light weight bow .Witch side is the tight rings on ,the deflex or reflex side ?
It was a branch right ?
Ralph
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Yes, it was a branch. The tight rings are not on either the reflexed or deflexed side if we are talking about the back and belly. Looking at the pic with my foot holding it down, the tips of the branch are pointing up. I think that makes it the reflexed side you are looking at. In that pic the tight rings are on the side of my toes, rather than heal. So, depending on how you were holding it, they would be one either the left or right side, rather than front or back.
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So in the picture with the little girl the tight rings are toward the wall ?
If it's still green I would seal the ends ,and I would tie it to a board or something. Trying to straighten it at least in regard to the tight rings being the back of the bow you want. The tight rings are more than likely the top of the branch ,and should be the back of the bow. If left alone as it dries it will probably gain reflex in the direction of the tight rings.
You could thin some of the thick ringed wood off the ends before tieing the stave down .You can stick pieces of wood under the stave when you tie it down to force reflex or deflex too.
You may or may not need to use heat to get it bend so you can tie it down.
Ralph
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Looks like you have the makings of a nice walking stick there. Have you thought of making a board bow? :) jawge
http://mysite.verizon.net/georgeandjoni/archer.html
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In re the pic with my baby girl, Bella, I am not sure if the tight rights are against the wall for opposite, but you have the axis right.
The wood is bone dry. So in re Bella pic, it sounds like in need to take out all the bend she is showinging, and keep the bend shown in the foot pic for a reflex/deflex with the tight rings in the back.
So, does this sound about right: rough cut it down to appropriate belly and tips and they dry heat it into shape, before tillering?
I have a built in gas BBQ with holes in the sides of the lid for a roticerie (sic) so I could essentially bake have of the branch at a time. Any idea of how long and at what temp?
I appreciate your help.
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You don't have to take all the bend out ,just enough so that the tips and the handle line up, with about the same amount of character on each side of the string.
You could bend it just in the middle ,making a S shape.
Not sure on the temp or time .Try to heat evenly not getting any spot or side to hot ,move or roll it around.And just heat it till it bends ,checking it every 2 minutes or so. When I heat bend ,I debark ,and rub grease in the wood seems to help the heat go deeper quicker. I bend just a little past where I want to go ,because it will spring back a bit.
Always worth a try, you can always cut more wood ,and you learn something every time.
Ralph
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Always worth a try, you can always cut more wood ,and you learn something every time.
Too true. Thank you for your help ;D
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Looks like you have the makings of a nice walking stick there. Have you thought of making a board bow? :) jawge
http://mysite.verizon.net/georgeandjoni/archer.html
Missed this post while I was responding. Not too optomistic, but honest. :-\ For some reason board bows strike me as wrong at the moment. Local Lowes/Home Depot dont have great selection in hardwood boards and I am not crazy about the prices. Think I would rather do more bundle bows if I cant get a stick to work, although I am pretty sure boards are in my future.
So I just got finished doing two things. I used my bbq to straighten out some very bent sticks I had for arrow. Had 3, one broke, and now it will be suitable for a crossbow bolt. Med heat worked well.
I used my new dremmel to sand off the bark on the branch. I know I should use my goggles, but even with the dust in the eye, it was very rewarding, and educational. I got a feel for the concept of chacing a ring. I can also see the danger of using this tool when it comes to fine tillering. Hope I have not violated the back, but I am not really sure what that means. Got a couple imperfections in the back, pin knots and a small natural gash. I will probably post some more pics after I rought shape and then heat bend.
In the mean time, it anyone cares to share some ideas it would be greately appreciated. :)
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That looks like some type of Mesquite tree, which some have made serviceable bows out of. That's awful small limb - good luck with it.
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Might be mesquite, but after googling images of that, I have my doubts. The tree shown might be, but that taken does not have the leaves to match. It is only a guess that the live tree shown are the source of that taken. I also have a branch as twisted but 57 inchs tall and two and a half wide with a well centered ring. I figured starting one something smaller would be easier.
I am gonna keep my eyes open for other finds. Two days ago I saw three dead trees beside the road. 3-5 inches trunk diameter about 6 feet long. I was thinking WOW, but then when I checked them out they seemed very light so I left them :-[
These are lots of pile to look out for. Illegal dumping is all over the place. Just got to find the right types of trees, and avoid putting out my knee again fining them. :o
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Russian Olive??
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Russian Olive??
That would be fine, and make it shaken not stirred. ;)
No, its not an olive. :)
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"For some reason board bows strike me as wrong at the moment."
Then think about buying a hickory stave. I have made a lot of bows from character staves. I don't think I could get a bow out of that stave. But I see you are determined. LOL. My site may help you. :) Jawge
http://www.yahoo.com/
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"For some reason board bows strike me as wrong at the moment."
Then think about buying a hickory stave. I have made a lot of bows from character staves. I don't think I could get a bow out of that stave. But I see you are determined. LOL. My site may help you. :) Jawge
http://www.yahoo.com/
Thanks, I will consider buying a stave. I've seen and enjoy your site. I will let you know when this stave (hey, it got an upgraded name!) either breaks or gets closer to being a bow. I'm keeping my eyes out for something better, but in the mean time ....
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Say, Wolfsire, what strikes you as bad about trying your hand at bows made from boards? Tim Baker seems to like bows from boards, and so do I, I saw with much humility.
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Say, Wolfsire, what strikes you as bad about trying your hand at bows made from boards? Tim Baker seems to like bows from boards, and so do I, I saw with much humility.
It is not so much "bad" as a non-abo feel. And I am not ruling it out, except for the moment. Nowithstanding the unicorn parts that my crossbow was made of, the point of that device was to utilize (without woodworking, which I am slowing learing) bundle bow and cordage backing technology. Gaining a little confidence with that success and a couple of others, I want to take on wood, but working with a board feels like buying a bow or kit, even though it is clearly not.
Even using a dremmel, it feels good to grunt caveman style, while working on a stick that I found in the "wild." (now if I found a board in the wild ..., actually, but that is for the future ....)
Sort of the same reason I tying to avoid buying oak dowels, which are only $1, but instead go looking around for sticks to dry, scrape, bend, etc. for arrows.
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I do respect your feelings. But read the article on bow boards in Vol. 2 of the Bowyer's Bible. As Tim points out, it is still wood, but you are freeing the bow from a board instead of coaxing it from a stave. I am not sure how ancient the craft of cutting boards from logs is, but pretty ancient, even if the idea of using boards is not quite that old.
Besides, some rare woods, tropicals, for instance, can only be had as boards in this country.
Dane
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With all of these low diameter limbs and trees you are mentioning, i would attempt to decrown the surface on the back of the bow to increase the performance. Good luck! Ty
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With all of these low diameter limbs and trees you are mentioning, i would attempt to decrown the surface on the back of the bow to increase the performance. Good luck! Ty
Ty, that is soemthing I will consider, if I understand it. Is decrowning flattening the back and violating the rings? Does it then require backing?
I have managed to dry heat bend the stick and take out about half of the sideways bend, so I rough cut it to shape (sparing the back) and will try to boil and bend the tips.
Dane, I dont have any of TBB :-\ But as I said, I'm only passing on boards for now. I may have to start looking at those as I have not had much success in finding dry staves in the desert.
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Hey wolfsire - I wouldn't shy too far away from board bows. I've accumulated quite a pile of staves over the last year and am currently working on two red oak boards just out of curiosity - like Tim Baker says in TBB 2 they are still wood which comes from trees. I just wanted the experience and their real easy to work with, may snap during tiller I don't know but I will at least be a little more educated in the ways of self bowery. Kinda fun to take a break from drawknifing them rings down for a change...
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Wolfshire, I agree with you about the boards. It feels more apart of you to go from tree to bow. I think the key to becoming a good Bowyer is working wood. So as long as you have wood to work whether its a tree, limb, or board your learning. Joel
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Well, to answer my subject question the answer is no.
Here is a pic showing my attempt to unbend after a dry heat. I did this three time before roughing it out. It took out about half the bend.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i264/wolfsirebella/Picture009.jpg)
Notice the double bend in the right tip. After roughing it out, I boiled that tip for half an hour, stuck it in a hole in a board and tried to bend out one of the curves. While trying to get an overbend just right before tying it down ... Snap! The area of break was about 1" at it widest and oval, 3/4" back to belly. Probably a little less on both those measurements. But as the curve in the wood went sideway, I was bending against the 1" and the front and back of the wood exposed to the tension and compression went through a couple exposed rings.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i264/wolfsirebella/Picture010.jpg)
I gave the wood a good look over to see if I might be able to use what was left to make a deflexed bow, to avoid further bending, but I do not think it will work. I would need to cut away too much to straighten it out.
I do like working this type of wood, though. It is hard and smells like popcorn. I made an overlarge broadhead with a small piece. I'll go back and look at the pile and see if I can come up with two pieces that I might be able to splice, possibly as a backed bow so I do not have to worry about the grain as much.
I'm not sure how much pressure and leverage was applied to get this break, but if any one can let me know any insights into the unknown type of wood (best guess some form of acacia) based on this post, I would appreciate it. Does the manner of break suggest that it is stronger in compression than tension or vice versa? I would guess the former.