Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: toomanyknots on January 30, 2013, 11:11:11 am
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...How on earth can you stand to use it? ;D It's like stringing a bow with a big heavy piece of rubber. Like a bike innertube or something. I am almost offended someone would sell me this stuff as bowstring material, ;D. Now I know b50 is widely popular, but am I insane or something, and just spoiled with linen? Do you guys not notice the drastic increase in handshock? Do yall really wanna make a beautiful brand new bow, that we can all attest to how much time and work can go into a handmade wooden bow from harvest to shooting, and then string with a big heavy rubber b50 string, thats gonna take more effort than it should to string, feel like the bows limbs aren't even bending when you draw it from it stretching so much, and shoot like... well, you know. ;) I just don't see the point... just had to get this off my chest, feel free to let me have it, >:D.
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Couple of things; a properly made B-50 sting won't be as stretchy as you indicate, might take a look at the way you make strings. If you make them too long with too many strands and twist them up a bunch to take up the slack they will be just like you described. 15 twists is about right for a B-50 string, any more and you are too long and have a lot of performance robbing extra string material.
I use 12 strands of B-50 on my bows when I use B-50, not exactly a "big, heavy" string.
A safe bow string should be 6 times the bows draw weight, at 45# breaking strength per strand even a 12 strand B-50 string is a bit of over kill for my 50-60# bows with a breaking strength of over 500#.
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Way too much stretch and finaggling for me. I have used fast flight for the last 100 strings I have made. My decision to switch wasnt out of haste, Ive been making strings for almost 15 years.
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I've also gone pretty much to FF strings as well. Brace height stays much more consitent. I use FF exclusively on heavier weight bows above 50#. With my warbows, I can't even brace them with B50. Down side (there always is)... much more expensive. A 1/4# spool of B50 is about $10, a 1/4# spool of FF is about $40.
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knots i gotta beg to differ on ur handshock commet it s a proven fact fast flight does produce much more hand shock you very well may get less streatch and more speed with ff but usally a bow thats loud will quite right down when swiched ove to b 50 i use both theres no one cure for all brock
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When i first started making bows i ordered the cheapest string material i could find whitch happened to be b50. When i ran out i ordered more. Last time i ordered string material i ordered b55 at basicly the same price and it is suppossed to have less stretch and be faster. I honestly cant tell any difference in performance between the two. That being said i have never tried linen or any of the fast flights. I have been thinking about buying some fast flight but have a hard time getting myself to sink the extra money into it when i have never shot a bow with it to see if i even like it. I am planning on growing some flax this year and making a string from it just for fun but i have no experience with it either. So i guess my reason for using b50 and b55 is because its what i have and what i always used. Maybe if i try something else i will find out what i have been missing, but untill then i will cotinue on as always.
Unless of course you want to send me something else to try. ::)
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When some people shoot my bows and ask what I make strings from, they all say the same thing. "I gotta get some fast flight, that thing is quiet!". In my opinion loud bows arent tillered well, have too light of an arrow or the handle is designed poorly. B50 strings can be quiet, but on an already quiet bow a FF string will be even better.
turtle - look at it this way. A spool of B50 is 8-9 bucks, a spool of D97 is 18 bucks. Is that 10 bucks a year gonna matter that much? Try it buddy and you wont look back.
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I've used B-50 exclusively for almost 30 years and never had a complaint. I've not noticed excessive stretch, not much change in brace height and have never had a string break. I use 14 strands for bows of 45# up to 65#. Any hand shock I've gotten in my bows was because of too much tip weight(reduction has changed that).
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Well then Pat, looks like I need to shoot one of your bows this spring. I will complain either way just so cant say nobody ever has! :)
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i agree with ya pat iv had bow s with 1/4 tip s quite as can be and seen half in tips bang like a drum haha all come s down to how it s bulit brock
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I use B-50 and in my opinion it aint that bad as long as you dont make a flemish bowstring out of it.
Maybe I should make a fastflight bowstring for the bow I am currently shooting and compare
I always make bowsting on a jig that is meant for bowstrings for modern recurves (dont know the proper term in english)
If you guys use fastflight do you make a flemish bowstring?
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I use 8 strands of b50 on my 50 pounders and did not experience a fail yet.
However I kind of resent the idea of putting plastic on my bows. I also find it disappointing that the dye comes off so easily with some colours.
I would love to try linen, but I have no clue where to get any. I dont really like yarning too much and also have no wheel, so it should come in treads already. Any ideas?
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I use only Flemmish twist strings.
Pearlie, you are welcome to shoot any of my bows. I like having others critique my work. It helps me improve, if I think improvement is needed. ;)
I'm not looking for high performance bows. If I were I'd be shooting FG bows or those other things. For what I want a bow for mine do just fine. I rarely shoot over 30 yards and my arrows are at least 10gpp with pretty heavy weight forward(cane and hardwood shoot arrows). For hunting situations they work perfectly; quiet and go where I'm looking with good cast to get the job done.
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I would love to try linen, but I have no clue where to get any. I dont really like yarning too much and also have no wheel, so it should come in treads already. Any ideas?
Try looking for sewingthread made by linen,its usually thicker and i know some use it for strings with good result.
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The only time I worried about stretch in a bow string was with a 90#@30" yew war bow I built and FF was recommended by war bow folks.
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I use spectra, almost Zero stretch, and only when you first make the string does it stretch a bit, then it wont any more. And it is sooooo cheap..... light weight, no waxing or anything. I love this stuff.
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I use only hand harvested cat gut, from local cats. ;D
We are soooooo spoiled in the string department. Making a couple nettle, hemp, linen or sinew strings... from scratch is a pain in the tuckas.
B50 is easy street, and I don't doubt that FF is even sweeter. I guess what ever makes your arrows go flying off in the right direction, as fast as you'd like em to, is what you should use.
Gabe
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Couple of things; a properly made B-50 sting won't be as stretchy as you indicate, might take a look at the way you make strings.
Knew that was gonna be the first thing someone said. ::) I beg to differ.
I use FF exclusively on heavier weight bows above 50#. With my warbows, I can't even brace them with B50.
I made a b50 string for a 110# @ 32" bow once, 24 strands was what was recommended by a guy on paleoplanet as overbuilding supposedly will keep the stretch down. Stringing it was ridiculous. Drawing it was a joke. Shooting it was even worse. I use b50 when in a bind, but I am just done with it anymore. I can't see using it when I can walk down to the river and make a better performing string out of the weeds (nettle), >:D. Just had to get that off my chest this morning, sorry if I ruffled any feathers, 8).
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Can't say I've had any problems with B-50. Maybe a little bit of stretch with a new string but nothing after that. I've even used it on warbows of up to 120#'s. I make my strings in a flemmish twist style.
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Also, I usually make the string a bit longer and use it to tiller the bow from start, that way I have less stretch when bracing later.
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I hunted milkweed and b50 all winter. The how to is in this months issue. Works great!
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John, I just got my new magazine a few days ago but haven't read through it yet. I saw your article and dog eared the corner of the first page to come back to later.
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Like I said, "look at the way you make strings", 24 strands, thats a rope, 14 would have been adequate but I would have gone with 16 just to be on the safe side.
I have made a whole bunch of bows, at least 150 and probably 10 times that many strings for myself and friends.
I have supplied the bows for most of the top selfbow tournament shooters in a three state area around where I live so I know bows and well as strings.
Some of the people who shoot my bows prefer B-50, most shoot DF-97. I have one personal bow that hates B-50 and one that loves it.
Your bad experiences with B-50 all come back to the way you make strings and what you put them on.
Mr. Pearl, where do you get DF-97 for 18 bucks? I have never found it for less than $27 for 1/4# spool.
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John, I also marked that article for the next chance I have to sit and read. I like the idea of natural materials, and have made a couple sinew strings, played around with nettle, and made several linen strings. But like Gabe said they are a lot of work.
As far as modern materials, I used B-50 for the longest time because that is what we used. Finally tried fast flight last summer. Bought a spool and never looked back.
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Guys, you are all missing out on probably the best string material out there. I don't know why, but everytime I mention spectra, I get ignored. It only cost 7 bucks for a spool, needs no waxin, is very abrasion resistant, self lubricating, light weight, super thin, and after the innitial stretch, won't stretch any more. And its super easy to get.
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Guys, you are all missing out on probably the best string material out there. I don't know why, but everytime I mention spectra, I get ignored. It only cost 7 bucks for a spool, needs no waxin, is very abrasion resistant, self lubricating, light weight, super thin, and after the innitial stretch, won't stretch any more. And its super easy to get.
Sleek I remember a thread last year on Paleo Planet where everybody was trying to figure out why your strings broke. I believe the conclusion was made that fishing line isnt bow material. Correct me if Im wrong.
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Mr. Pearl, where do you get DF-97 for 18 bucks? I have never found it for less than $27 for 1/4# spool.
Eric the last two rolls came from Larry at Lost Nation, they were archery show prices. Most any vendors will have sales at shows, thats when I jump on it. I think 3 Rivers is under $27 a spool. Honestly, even if it costs me $25 a year more to use it, I would. I have made hundred and hundreds of strings now, I started in the mid 90's and even supplied a sporting goods store. I hope I have it figured out by now and that my taste for fast flight isnt a result of not knowing how to make a good string from B50.
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Adoption of lower stretch string material has been gradual but steady. I started out 10 years ago with a spool of B50. I switched almost immediately to the low-stretch material due to the rubbery feel of B50. Later on, I spent a lot of time working with linen strings (for flight bows) and quickly realized a great linen string performs more like fast flight than B50.
The only good use I've found for my old B50 spool is as a binding to clamp wood laminations together.
One more bit of info. I've found that the common quoted breaking strength for B50 is about double reality. I measured several spools and come up with 24-26 lb.
Alan
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Its cheap, readily availible, and easy to use.
I can get a spool from my local archery story for $7 and get at least half dozen (maybe up to a dozen with short bows ;) ) strings.
My strings are simply reverse twisted (pretty close to flemish).
Buying a FF string is around $10 and even though that's affordable, it just doesn't feel right to spend more on the string than it cost to make the bow. :)
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Pearl, the string broke because I had been making them too thin, without enough threads. I had been miscalculating, making them only 6 stands instead of 8 to 10. I have since fixed that problem and have had no problems with my strings since.
Scott, I was not aware of that fact at all. I use Zebco braided line at 7 dollars for a 110 yard spool of 50 lb test. Get it at walmart. Thanks for the info...
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Fastflite's worth the few extra dollars. I have a friend who will not use anything but sinew strings. Period. No plastic man made crap on his bows. He does however recognize that my strings are, performance wise, way better in most every way measurable. No argument. If you are gonna use space age string material, might as well use the lightest, strongest, lowest stretch material available IMO.
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Like I said, "look at the way you make strings", 24 strands, thats a rope, 14 would have been adequate but I would have gone with 16 just to be on the safe side.
So you think using 14 strands instead of 24 on a 110# bow would somehow reduce stretch? When it was overbuilt with the purpose or reducing said stretch in the first place? I fail to follow your logic.
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Mr. Pearl, where do you get DF-97 for 18 bucks? I have never found it for less than $27 for 1/4# spool.
Eric the last two rolls came from Larry at Lost Nation, they were archery show prices. Most any vendors will have sales at shows, thats when I jump on it. I think 3 Rivers is under $27 a spool. Honestly, even if it costs me $25 a year more to use it, I would. I have made hundred and hundreds of strings now, I started in the mid 90's and even supplied a sporting goods store. I hope I have it figured out by now and that my taste for fast flight isnt a result of not knowing how to make a good string from B50.
3 rivers sells it for 25.00 or so for a spool, but it is only 1/8# spool, not a 1/4#. That might be where the confusion originating.
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I use b-50 and b-55, the latter does stretch less, but i'm getting some d97 shortly and we'll see what we see, only shot one bow with a linen string, came on a trade bow a couple years ago, broke after about 40 shots, not shure why, it was a endless loop, Bub
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B-50 flemish twist strings have filled the freezer several times over the last 25 years ;D
If it ain't broke don't fix it. Shoot whatever string material you enjoy ;)
One of these days I'll use sinew or some other natural fiber to complete my primitive quest.
Tracy
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I recently switched to FF from B-50. I haven't noticed a huge difference. I think I will end up saving money even though FF is more expensive. I didn't have a stretching problem with the B-50. I made the strings a little short and stretched them over night under a lot of tension on my endless loop jig. I have heavy metal shelf brackets with a 45 degree support on my jig. I would tighten them down until the metal started to bend. I would imagine it was quite a bit more tension than being on a bow. After that I never had a problem with them stretching.
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Like I said, "look at the way you make strings", 24 strands, thats a rope, 14 would have been adequate but I would have gone with 16 just to be on the safe side.
24 strands of B-50? Rope? More like a naval ship hawser! ;D That's 2,700 lbs of breaking strength when all you really need is 4 times the draw weight. But then, some of you jokers in here pull some mighty heavy bows, too. I'm a wimp.
I've been getting away with 8 strands of B50 on bows up to 50 lbs of draw weight. Yeah, it's initially pretty stretchy, but they do shoot-in pretty quick. Mind, I do have to double serve the area where I nock my arrows in order to not cut thru my glove, 8 strands is pretty thin. When I make strings for others, I do bump it to 10 strands and sometimes 12 depending on what they want.
I've shot some FF on my bows and just didn't notice any difference. So, I have allowed myself to take the cheaper route.
A couple of people have said they go with B50 because it's "good enough". I guess I'm in that camp too. There comes a point I just don't wanna go down the path of chasing every spare FPS out of my arrows. If I was worried about this I'd chick the wood and buy a Matthews 4 Wheel Drive GPS Enabled compound running prorietary software based on Linux++ and 8K Terrabytes of memory.
It's a personal choice, and personally I find the FF outa my price range. When I get into making flight bows, I will certainly revisit this chain of logic, you betcha!
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I feel a little like JW, which is sort of a scary feeling.... ;D I started out with B50 and have never found a reason to change. I go 10 strands on bows under 45lbs and 12 on the heavier ones. I don't usually build anything heavier than 55lbs and haven't noticed any problems. I make endless loops or twisted strings, depending on how the mood strikes me. I think I actually favor the endless loop strings. To each his own. I am naturally cheap and started buying the B50 to save a buck. The meat in the freezer tells me it's still working. I just ordered some more B-50 tonight.
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I am fully aware that i am probably going to get ribbed for this one, but ive been using these for the past year with no stretch, breakage, cast loss, or any other problems. this is the string for my 95# English Longbow. It is made from reverse twisted mason line, often marketed as nylon kite string. dirt cheap, light, and absolutely effective. before you attack me for it, give it a chance, try it out. it wont disappoint, and its cheaper than all of what you guys are using.
(http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums/s620/cmac7254/IMG_0187_zpsaac999ac.jpg)
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No thanks, buddy! I'm a wimp, remember! No 90 lb bows for me! >:D
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When Pappy and Gary Davis have decided that Fast Flight is the way to go, I just have to tend to agree.
I've made many many strings over the years. I started out with B50, and then decided to hit the D-10 and D97 for a change of pace and to test them out.
In my opinion there is no comparison. One is functional. The other is light years better. Cast, hand shock, and how the bow functions all dictate what works best.
All my bows have Fast Flight. If someone uses 5-50 that's cool with me. Each of us has an opinion, and that's what makes the world a better place. :D
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Why B-50 you ask, Toomanyknots?
Well because this is the Primitive Archer site.
I thought we did it the hard way here. Well at least I still do, I love B-50.
If I want a high Tech string material, I'll go out and buy a compound bow.
Or I'll start making glass bows.
Just cracks me up when guys make bows from wood, then they have to put high tech super duper fast flight strings on them.
Why ya all do that? If ya want a really fast stick bow, build a glass bow:)
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What's not high tech about B-50? It's just as high tech as FF it's just not as good at doing it's job.
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Quick and simple answer- I'm cheap and b-50 works for me. Josh
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I am fully aware that i am probably going to get ribbed for this one, but ive been using these for the past year with no stretch, breakage, cast loss, or any other problems. this is the string for my 95# English Longbow. It is made from reverse twisted mason line, often marketed as nylon kite string. dirt cheap, light, and absolutely effective. before you attack me for it, give it a chance, try it out. it wont disappoint, and its cheaper than all of what you guys are using.
(http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums/s620/cmac7254/IMG_0187_zpsaac999ac.jpg)
I will see your mason line string twilightandmist, and raise you a nettle string... ;D
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/DSCN0967.jpg)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/DSCN0965.jpg)
Why B-50 you ask, Toomanyknots?
Well because this is the Primitive Archer site.
I thought we did it the hard way here. Well at least I still do, I love B-50.
If I want a high Tech string material, I'll go out and buy a compound bow.
Or I'll start making glass bows.
Just cracks me up when guys make bows from wood, then they have to put high tech super duper fast flight strings on them.
Tell me whats high tech about a nettle string? If anything it is alot less high tech than b50, and will perform 1000 times better as bowstring material. The best bowstrings I have ever made were of straight nettle fiber, simply twisted together slightly and lightly glued with hide glue. No stretch at all, not even any settling in, and when compared a flemish twist style linen string, there was a very noticeable difference in performance.
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is that stinging nettle? it looks really similar to my "Burlap Sack" jute strings :) looks heavy with that diameter, but ive been mistaken before. is it similar to dogbane? you have me interested, and theres a huge patch of nettles practically in my back yard... :)
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What's not high tech about B-50? It's just as high tech as FF it's just not as good at doing it's job.
Zackly ;D
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I have used both fast flight and dacron strings for years. I admit the fast flight strings have a little more snap, but not enough difference to worry about after the dacron has been shot in and fully stretched. I have much more dacron in inventory than fast flight and in more color variations, so I imagine I will be using it for a while, yet.
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I like fast flight and also b50 if like Eric said they are made right with very little twist,both will do a good job, [ SO that is why on earth I use it.] That's like asking me why I am making a bow for Hickory or Persimion when I have plenty of Osage and Yew, cause I want to is the main reason. :o Enough said. :)
Pappy
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;)I use 8 strand ultra cam strings from show me strings. He makes my final strings when the bow is done. Yall can use whatever you want. 8) b50 is cheaper... That's all it has over high performance material. High performance string IS better. I know one reason you old timers use it... Stubborn crotcheness and generally crabby towards anything new. >:D. "in my day we didn't have fancy string material! We'd use the rope we used to hold our britches up and weeeee loved it!" Kinda attitude. Keep telling yourselves its just as good. That makes it true. LOL
Use what makes you happy. That's just more high performance material for me. ;)
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I am rather new but the primitive strings i make are very valuable to me do to the labor. I dont really do a lot of target shooting with them. So if I want to do a lot of shooting I use the b50 then if I want practice for hunting the milkweed I use thee deer hide because it is easier to make and is the same gain wt.
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Toomany, has a point. Don't go unloading on the man. This is supposed to be a primitive archery forum. Frankly, I always felt a little "guilty" about using a synthetic string on one of my selfies. That's just me and him apparently and may be a few others. Linen is natural. It's natural to use on a wooden bow. I try to keep my bows simple. I don't even use overlays because the ancients didn't use them. I just haven't been able to make the switch to any other string material than B 50. Last year I decided to try FF for at least the initial stringing and tillering. Now, I've never had a nock split while stinging a bow. Never happened in 24 years of making bows. I mean never. Guess what. Darn FF split my nock on my red oak log stave bow. I am being dramatic because someone is sure to say, "Well, Jawge, you know you had a weak spot there and the nock was gong to split anyway. It's not the string's fault." I fixed it with an overlay. So much for my foray into 20th Century bow making. Time to take another step back in time where I belong. :) Jawge
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Excellent point George. We all draw the line somewhere. My line is out in front of some, and far behind others, but it is a line of my own choosing, nothing more or less. I've used about every sting imaginable at some point. Love using sinew strings for my Indian bows, don't care to hunt with 'em. I cross the line on "natural material" with my strings....because I choose to. :)
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is that stinging nettle? it looks really similar to my "Burlap Sack" jute strings :) looks heavy with that diameter, but ive been mistaken before. is it similar to dogbane? you have me interested, and theres a huge patch of nettles practically in my back yard... :)
Yes it is stinging nettle, I believe it is the wood nettle type. Could be wrong though. It does look huge, and it is probably over built, but it worked for the 50# bow I used it with. And it is air light when comparing it to a b50 string meant for a 50# bow. A linen string is always alot lighter too. I didn't wax the string at all though, as I typically wax the strands but I was afraid I would break the threads I spun... I am not the best at spinning thread, I will tell you that!
I like fast flight and also b50 if like Eric said they are made right with very little twist,both will do a good job, [ SO that is why on earth I use it.] That's like asking me why I am making a bow for Hickory or Persimion when I have plenty of Osage and Yew, cause I want to is the main reason. :o Enough said. :)
Pappy
lol, ;D I always thought when people twisted their flemish strings only slightly, it was because they didn't wanna reverse twist em all together because of the time it takes, not for performance. If that was the case, why not just use one bundle and only twist slightly and wax? Well I guess next time I make a b50 string, i'll just make one bundle, slightly twisted.
Toomany, has a point. Don't go unloading on the man. This is supposed to be a primitive archery forum. Frankly, I always felt a little "guilty" about using a synthetic string on one of my selfies. That's just me and him apparently and may be a few others. Linen is natural. It's natural to use on a wooden bow. I try to keep my bows simple. I don't even use overlays because the ancients didn't use them. I just haven't been able to make the switch to any other string material than B 50. Last year I decided to try FF for at least the initial stringing and tillering. Now, I've never had a nock split while stinging a bow. Never happened in 24 years of making bows. I mean never. Guess what. Darn FF split my nock on my red oak log stave bow. I am being dramatic because someone is sure to say, "Well, Jawge, you know you had a weak spot there and the nock was gong to split anyway. It's not the string's fault." I fixed it with an overlay. So much for my foray into 20th Century bow making. Time to take another step back in time where I belong. :) Jawge
True, true. Honestly though, I really don't have a problem using anything high tech, or anything at all for that matter, as long as it works. Linen works great, and I guess I just like it. Although, the fact it is traditional does kinda satisfy something inside me, truthfully. (Ok, I admit, it makes my bows feel more traditional, and I like that. :) But I ain't gonna nock anything for being high tech either.) It really looks sharp on a longbow, or even a warbow. Yes, I said warbow. :) I make it in 3 ply anymore, and the strings are round and comfortable to shoot by hand without whipping or a tab/glove. I've had problems with hitch knots wearing down and breaking with 2 plys, so I always use 2 loops with 2 ply, but 3 plys seem to be more round and compact, and work just fine with hitch knots. If I couldn't get linen, I would probably use d97.
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I agree, Slimbob. Lines in the sand are personal. When I go to the beach I draw them all the time. :) Jawge
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In relation to breaking strength of B-50; every time I did a break test on my bow scale my B-50 would break at 48-50#, exactly what is stated in their specs. That said, I have bought spools that looked different, with knots to piece tag ends together, some with obviously thins spots in the thread, just overall inconsistency. I have never bought a spool of DF-97 that wasn't perfect.
Pappy nailed it, use what you want to and don't concern yourself about what others tell you you aught to be using.
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Yep,well said SLIMBOB/Jawges/Eric. Heck I even use a band saw and super glue. ;) :D :D I have some linen,just never bothered to twist it up,always heard it worked great but wasn't as durable,so as bad as I hate to make strings I went with what I thought was the most durable. Do the same with bows,I go for durable not some much for fast. That's my line and I sticking to it ??? Well until I draw another. ;) ;D ;D
Pappy
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Oh Pappy!!! You use a band saw? Say it isn't so.. LOL
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Oh Pappy!!! You use a band saw? Say it isn't so.. LOL
Speaking of that, I am about to pick me an old 12" craftsman bandsaw from craigslist today or tomorrow. Anything I should look for when buying? I am a bandsaw virgin basically. This is the saw I plan to buy: http://dayton.craigslist.org/grd/3483374412.html
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You know the older I get the more I think about buying a bow grade bandsaw. I think about it but never do it. Now with bow making on the shelf because of spinal issues I may just do it. Jawge
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Have them run it for you and demonstrate its ability? Make sure its still cutting fine, mostly to make sure the motor still works and functions. Bring some of your own wood to check it with. And if you can see if they still have the manual, im sure you can find it online, but a hard copy wouldnt hurt
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that posting expired. What model was it? How old? I've owned a couple of Craftsman bandsaws and I've had to fix a few things on them. I just broke the blad tension control on mine. I need to figure out how to fix it
Check the tires, blade guides, motor, wheels, If it runs make sure it doesn't have a lot of vibration. It should be nice and smooth
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Yep,wider blades cut larger wood and the thinner with cut curves better,I had a 12 like that for years,O I still have it just use my bigger one more now,one good piece of advice that was given me and will save a lot of staves,always keep the wood you can't see away from the blade. :) It is real easy with a stave to try and let it set flat,then when you look at the other side you go Aw crap. ??? :)
Pappy
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that posting expired. What model was it? How old? I've owned a couple of Craftsman bandsaws and I've had to fix a few things on them. I just broke the blad tension control on mine. I need to figure out how to fix it
Check the tires, blade guides, motor, wheels, If it runs make sure it doesn't have a lot of vibration. It should be nice and smooth
It is still showing up for me, here is a picture:
(http://i46.tinypic.com/15qx1d4.jpg)
I don't know the model or year yet. All I gots to go on is according to the guy selling it, it works fine.
I will surely test it out before I buy it. Thank you for the tips outlaw, I appreciate it. So it should run smooth?...
Have them run it for you and demonstrate its ability? Make sure its still cutting fine, mostly to make sure the motor still works and functions. Bring some of your own wood to check it with. And if you can see if they still have the manual, im sure you can find it online, but a hard copy wouldnt hurt
Anyway to tell if it has a bad motor?
Yep,wider blades cut larger wood and the thinner with cut curves better,I had a 12 like that for years,O I still have it just use my bigger one more now,one good piece of advice that was given me and will save a lot of staves,always keep the wood you can't see away from the blade. :) It is real easy with a stave to try and let it set flat,then when you look at the other side you go Aw crap. ??? :)
Pappy
Thank you for the tips. Until I get a hang of my tablesaw and how not to kill myself while using it, :), I might like to use a bandsaw for alot of my lumber cutting. Main reason is resawning backings and lams though, any blade suggestions for resawning backings? I have heard using low tension can help keep drift at a minimum, although I have no clue and no experience.
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I had on that was one style newer than that one. It always had a wobble/vibration to it. I would tighten everything down and it would almost go away. Then it would slowly come back. After a lot of investigation, a new shaft key, and some help from my Dad we found the problem. The slot on the motor shaft had a bur in it and it wouldn't allow the key to go all the way in. Only half of the lock screw was on the key when tightened down. It kept working loose. I guess the guy that had it before me had the same problem because I could see where he tried to epoxy it in place. Once we smoothed out the key slot and got the key inserted all the way it smoothed right out.
The most important thing you can do is set it up correctly. There are some youtube videos that show how to do it.
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I had on that was one style newer than that one. It always had a wobble/vibration to it. I would tighten everything down and it would almost go away. Then it would slowly come back. After a lot of investigation, a new shaft key, and some help from my Dad we found the problem. The slot on the motor shaft had a bur in it and it wouldn't allow the key to go all the way in. Only half of the lock screw was on the key when tightened down. It kept working loose. I guess the guy that had it before me had the same problem because I could see where he tried to epoxy it in place. Once we smoothed out the key slot and got the key inserted all the way it smoothed right out.
The most important thing you can do is set it up correctly. There are some youtube videos that show how to do it.
Alrighty. Thank ya outlaw.
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Why do I use B50
Some where around 30 years ago a man gave me what looks like will turn out to be a life time supply of it !
My mom taught me not to be throwing things away just cause someone thinks they have something better !
Why would I worry about the rest ?
Have fun !
Guy
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I don't use it. Well, I can't say that. It's good for sewing leather. ;D
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Initially, I felt bad when I switched to modern string material. But I was tired of worrying about when my string was going to break, ( usually at the 500 shot mark ) and needed more reliability. After asking around, somebody made the point that went like this. " why not use modern stuff? The indians were sure quick enough to switch to modern equipment, steel hatchets, guns, etc... " I thought, well hell, the only reason the ancients didnt use the better stuff is cause they didnt have it, otherwise they would have. So I feel I am keeping in the spirit of things. :)
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How were your strings breaking, Sleek? I've been shooting the same string on my sinewed osage for 6 years. I've changed the serving about once a year or so, but the string is still pristine!
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I was using craft store Jute string and its fibers just werent all that long... They would break somewhere usually mid limb.
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Duh, Jute. I was thinking you were breaking B-50 strings.
Yup, we all draw our lines here and there as we see fit. But the guys that draw the lines where natural materials end and modern materials start always get a huge bunch of extra credit in my book. Thanks to Iowabow and his recent articles in P.A. I think I may venture into milkweed bowstrings soon.
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because i just don't have that kind of cash! It's one reason i've never bought a bow or an arrow. Now you might say that nettles or milkweed is free, and i agree, but there is a break even point where the effort and the cost need to be considered. If i found a nicely made Mark St Louis bow at a garage sale for 10 bucks i'd buy my first bow too!...along with another spool of B50 :)
Like others have said, i just don't feel the need to chase a little bit more performance, not worth it to me. After shooting in my b50 strings i never see a change in brace height, unless the string falls off or something and comes untwisted a couple turns.
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I use both B-50,B55 and FF. And personally i prefer ff,But i say use what you feel is right for you.
But i cant say i think B-50 is more "primitive" than FF,its just a slightly older oilderiverat (Plastic)
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I got to say, I've really enjoyed this thread. One thing that drew to primitive bows is that they're basically free as far as spending money goes. You buy a few initial tools and after that you can make bows until your heart is content. I can't see myself ever buying a string as long as I have squirrels running around the yard or some strong fibrous plants around. Making your own primitive string is a lot of fun! I get almost as much satisfaction out of making a string as I do a bow. It takes craftsman ship and hard work to turn a bundle of fibers into a string but when that pile of fibers diminishes and you're left holding a nice even string you can really feel proud of yourself. I'd like to encourage everyone that has made a bow to try making a primitive bowstring to go along with it just to try it out.
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I honestly could care less what a guy shoots for a bow or a string, or an arrow. It's all Traditional Archery to me. Any Man that makes his own bow and hunts with it is tops as far as I'm concerned. If he makes carbon arrows so be it, if he makes aluminum arrows so be it, if he makes wooden arrows so be it, if he makes river cane arrows so be it. If he makes Flemish Strings out of B-50 then cool, but if he makes strings out of FF, then he is a Sissy Pants... :) ;D
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Don't keep it all bottled up Roy - just tell us how you feel! ;D
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:) ;) ;D 8) >:D
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maybe I'm a bit late with this thread .... but.... I always use B50 because years ago the guy who innitially taught me to make bows said, using fast fast flight on wooden laminate bows would cause them to delam...now, even though peope have told me this doesnt happen, the fear went in too deep and I dont trust it.
Has anyone one of you bowyers out there heard of this happenning???
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I use FF on all my LAM bows. Never a problem yet with de-laming.
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last time I looked at the price of FF, I read that actual FF was no longer available, and I came accross all types of brands like dyneeema etc What is the best brand to buy and whats the differences?, are they all the same material ? or different ? . or maybe I should post a new thread asking?
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Its still available. I got a spool of it for Christmas.
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toomanyknots,
I'm spoiled also, hard to out perform a properly built linen string. Light and no stretch...
Don
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are there any build along's on the build along section for linen strings? If not i would really like to see one done by one of you pros ;D