Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Youngboyer2(billyf) on January 01, 2013, 05:46:49 pm
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I am making a red oak board bow from the TG build along
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=002064;p=0
And I like the simplicity, and how the pyramid design makes for very little tillering, it is 68" ttt 1" at the tips and 3" at the fades. 12 inches from the fades it is 1 3/4" wide, and I have been planning to cut it down so that it is no wider than 1 3/4" at any point, I know that this will mean that I will actually have to tiller a significant amount, and the draw weight will go down.But I was wondering if that will lead to some sort of catastrophic failure that I have overlooked. I will upload pictures soon.
-Billy
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Billy, narrowing it to 1 3/4" should not have any negative effect. You may want to remove a little wood from each side so it stays symetrical.
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Thank you pat, I thought so but I was not sure, I haven't strayed from the buildalong yet and have been a little nervous to do so.
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Did you say that the tips are 1" wide? Thats pretty wide, the norm is 1/2"
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Yes the tips are 1", I plan in thinning them later.
-Billy
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Do you have access to a belt sander?
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My first board bow was 3" at the fades but 1/2" at the tips. That's why I asked about the sander. You could retaper to 1/2" on a stationary belt sander. It wouldn't be too different from how I initially do the tapers on my bows after inrough them out on the band saw.
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Man I wish I had a sander, all work is being done by hand... I took it down to 2 inches at the fades and for the next 12 inches, it looks better, this Draw knife from Bevan R worked it down like butter, I left it1/2" thick(front to back) so I think it will still have enough power, thank you for the input guys!
-Billy
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Trying to figure out pics
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Ok I figured out how to upload pictures with smartfone... Pretty easy.
I finally got it bending, took the fades down to 2" and after some mishaps it is turning out pretty well
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if you just want a thinner handle you could take it down to an inch wide or so without losing any weight
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I haven't even thought about shaping the handle yet... Decisions, decisions. I am just happy I was able to get it to the tillering stage on my own. I made the handle 4", I hope I can fit my hand & an arrow on there, it seems kinda small
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I haven't even thought about shaping the handle yet... Decisions, decisions. I am just happy I was able to get it to the tillering stage on my own. I made the handle 4", I hope I can fit my hand & an arrow on there, it seems kinda small
It's too late now, but I always make my handles 5" long so there is room for the arrow to pass on the handle rather than on the tapered edge of the fade. On the fade, the arrow can be a lot closer or farther from center from one shot to the next if your hand isn't in exactly the same place.
Back to the narrowing. Your bow is exactly the percentage weak as the percent of width you removed from the limbs. I'm guessing you now have about a 40# bow.
Jim Davis
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A sanders not very primitive.
By hand is way better once you go to far you can't but it back on.
I prefer and make all my bows by hand.