Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: PEARL DRUMS on December 30, 2012, 09:35:41 am
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Does anybody have a copy of that chart that shows woods moisture content relative to humidity? i.e. 45% humidity is 8% moisture.
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(http://img71.imageshack.us/img71/1092/relyz3.jpg)
http://bit.ly/Ufq4C2
>:D >:D >:D >:D >:D
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Exactly the one, thanks duck. Its getting low up here. My shop is hovering at 41% and 62 f.
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Could someone explain this chart and it's relevance?
I have not seen it before and would like to learn more.
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Bow junkie this chart let's you know how dry your wood is once it has equalized. For instance 50%rh at 70deg equals a moisture content of 9.2%
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I believe it gives a ballpark moisture content for seasoned wood stored at that temperature and relative humidity. For example wood stored at a temp of 70 and a RH of 50 would have a MC of 9.2%. It is useful if you don't have a moisture meter, so you can have an idea of the MC of wood you are working with.
Or what Will H said... he replied while I was typing :P
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Well the reason I ask,,,, is I have a ton of Hack berry that I cut about a month ago, split them out into 1/4's and now curing.
What would be the ideal conditions to store them while they cure?
Thank you for your responses.
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Bowjunkie, I would suggest putting them in your garage or basement. Just somewhere out of the elements. Let em season for a year or so, if you just have to go ahead make a bow then cut out and floor tiller the stave green. But I would leave the limbs full width out to the tips so they don't warp up on ya. Also seal the ends and the back with glue. Then take the stAve inside and use the chart above to get it to 7-12% moisture. Should take about 5-10 days. If you want to know when it's dry you can also weigh the stave every day noting the weight on the belly. When it has lost no weight for about a third of the time its been drying it's ready to go. ;)
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If you do reduce a stave to floor tiller size be sure to clamp or bind it to a form of some sort so it doesn't twist. You may not get the reflex from drying but you can always add that later. If you reduce two, bind them together, back to back and let them dry like that.
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Pat B: Thank you for the advice, you have always been a wealth of information to me in the past and I thank you.
Pearl Drums: I have been reading your Hack Berry build along, Very nice work, and a lot of good information I plan to use in the near future.
This is as far as I have split them out, I have sealed the ends of all them when I cut them with wood glue.
I have removed the bark from most of these 1/4's.
So far they are curing straight with no visible distortion. I have twelve 1/4's and on average they are 6 to 8 inches around the back.
I plan to cut them down to around 2.5 to 3 inches with a skill saw once they cure out to minimize scrap.
I guess I should look at maybe purchasing a moisture meter to track the loss?
I am just not sure how long Hack berry will take to cure, but I don't want to get too anxious and begin making bows before they are ready. It's been about two years since I have had bow wood to even try to make bows again.
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I woulda copied my chart for ya PEARL. You didn't ask. LOL
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... I have twelve 1/4's and on average they are 6 to 8 inches around the back.
I plan to cut them down to around 2.5 to 3 inches with a skill saw once they cure out to minimize scrap...
Do that now. You have two staves in each, at least in the 8 inchers. You will have more staves and they will dry faster.
In my experience, if the staves are taken down to floor tiller condition, you won't need to seal the backs. The wood can dry on both the back and belly and will do so evenly.
Jim Davis
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I woulda copied my chart for ya PEARL. You didn't ask. LOL
I didnt want to bother you in the middle of an intense sinew application session!