Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Prarie Bowyer on December 13, 2012, 07:19:15 am
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So I'm working on a new bow that has the 5 curve profile glued in as a triple laminate and kerf cut recurves.
I want to fill out the handle some but I want to go bendy handle I think. This design is WAY underrated if you ask me. Question is to finish it out nicely how should I do that" I'm thinking I'll use cork but the wrapping and the arrow pass area. I'm looking for ideas.
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I stack off-cuts of 3mm leather on-top of each other and hold them in place with glue. Then I shape the sides for comfort.
Sometimes then wrap with a strong button thread and more glue. Then over the top with the leather grip.
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I stack off-cuts of 3mm leather on-top of each other and hold them in place with glue. Then I shape the sides for comfort.
Sometimes then wrap with a strong button thread and more glue. Then over the top with the leather grip.
+1 for that.
Del
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If you soak the leather with thin super glue, you can work it like wood.
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I have used rawhide, built up leather with and without superglue. When I use leather, I generally use the scrap leather I buy by the bag for 5 to 7 bucks. Unfortunately the tanning method for this type leather does not make it super glue friendly. That's when I started just building up layers of leather and sanding it to shape on the belt sander. I kinda like it better. It is not quite so hard making it grip better, at least for me.
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This is how I "handle" the situation. ;D This was on a 2" diameter, bendy handle pole bow I built last year for the TG bow trade. I use precut shoe sole leather(about 1/4" thick), cut and sand it to shape, soak it in warm water to soften it then glue it with TBIII to the handle area. Once it is dry I grind to a basic shape on the belt sander and saturate it with super glue. More shaping can be done if necessary then sanding smooth and add a handle wrap. I do this for tip overlays too.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/leatherhandleriser002.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/leatherhandleriser003.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/leatherhandleriser007.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/leatherhandleriser008.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/leatherhandleriser010.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/leatherhandleriser005.jpg)
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A rasp works well for this too...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/2012TGBowTrade2inchosagepole003c.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/leatherhandleriser001a.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/leatherhandleriser005a.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/2012TGBowTrade2inchosagepole005.jpg)
Sorry I don't have a better pic of the finished handle
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/TGtradebowdonec2012004.jpg)
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I use bulbous handles and on most bows I fill out the back of the handle with this method too.
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TTT for those who may have missed this... ;)
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Pat, where do you get that thick shoe leather?
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Clint, any shoe repair shop(if there are still any ::) ) will have them. If you have a saddle shop near you they will have heavy vegetable tanned "skirting" leather. I believe that is what these precut soles are made from. You can probably get scraps of the skirting leather for nothing or very little.