Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Slackbunny on November 30, 2012, 11:18:56 pm
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Which finish is it that gives that real nice shine? I use tung oil most of the time and it glosses it up but not like some of the pics I see around. Is it a polyurethane spray?
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Tru oil...n if u don't want the shine or want to tone it down some you can lightly steel wool it
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several thin coats of tru-oil.
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Dip them in gloss urethane if you want maximum gloss.
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I don't think self bows should be glossy. I like a satin finish and use tung oil also. I know Pearly Boy and Chicken Hawk gloss their bows up, but they look like sissy bows to me all glossy :) LOL
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There's the Roy we know....lol :laugh: so tell us how you really feel :P :laugh:
The bows ill hunt with do get steel wooled to knock that shine off...but if its just gonna be a target bow then hell yeah,give me that shine baby
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Tru oil. The more coats the more shine.
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Like they say Chick Hawk, if it don't run, Chrome it:)
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Like they say Chick Hawk, if it don't run, Chrome it:)
;D
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All you tru-oil guys are cracking me up! I have yet to try tru-oil myself, but I have used some other boiled linseed oil with dryers type finishes and they will get it shiny. I have also found that the lighter colored shellac come out very glossy with little effort.
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teak or danish oil. Furniture wax on top melted with heat gun then buffed out.
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Don't confuse shine , gloss and finish.
It's what's underneath that counts... and that's down to patience and work.
You know you've got there when you realise that stuborn mark you are trying to get out is acutually just grain.
Del
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If you want to have a real fancy glossy finish, use polyethurene varnish, if you want a traditional glossy finish and you have lots of time use shellac :)
of course, , like del de cat said, the sanding must be done properly, at least to 500 grit (for a shellac finish)
cheers
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I tried all sorts of finishers recently and tru-oil is by far my favourite. Polly varnish is nice nut tru-oil is far easier to apply not to mention less messy. Simply apply with finger tips avoiding runs, wash hands and re-apply when dry
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Roy, you crack me up. You just moved up on my thumpin list. LOL >:D
I used to think that way but like to have the best of both worlds. A great showroom finish for the shoots and just slip the camo sleaves on when hunting. Even dulled down finish will give a refelctive glare if the sun is just right. For all time I would cove the entire bow with camo cream while hunting. I think it drove Gordon nuts as he shook his head and gave me a pair of real nice sleaves.
Spray on Minwax polyeurothane high gloss with at least 5 coats will get you there but as Del said the real key is prep.
"You know you've got there when you realise that stuborn mark you are trying to get out is acutually just grain.
Del"
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You know me Keenan :)
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I like the shine too. I burnish the entire bow, and then buff with pure beeswax. Sometimes before the beeswax, I will add a coat of pure tung oil. I find oil finishes can really add alot of weight to the bow. So most of the time I will do just a light coat of beeswax, (without the hair dryer) and end up getting exceptable protection, a nice looking finish, and all without adding too much extra weight as an oil finish sometimes will. I've never used poly on a bow before, I hate the smell of it. You have to buff the shine up alot on a beeswaxed bow though.
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My favorite finish for both bows and furniture I make - equal parts high gloss poly (it is clear) boiled linseed oil, solvent ( I like turpentine) apply with cloth in thin coats. Buff with steel wool to reduce any shine
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one part tung oil...one part natural turpentine and one part poly varnish......apply with rag and polish down with 'brasso' after one week....east to aplly ,good finnish with some shine but not too much
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I'm gonna have to try the oil and poly mixture. I got boiled linseed oil for the first time and was amzed at the drying time... thin coats from now on. I checked out a gunstock finishing book from the 1940's and it has great information about the old finishes.
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Tru oil seems to be the general consensus. I'll give that a try first. As always thanks for the quick and informed answers, this site is second to none.
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you cant get a smooth gloss finnish if you dont sand your bow with progressively finer grit all the way up to 800. For a gloss finish, I use 10+ coats of tung oil. I like tung oil because its thin and will penetrate easier.
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Tru oil is a combination of natural oils. All you guys out there mixing up your own oil finishes are just making Tru oil :)
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for a smooth, shiny finish, i sand my bows to 400 grit, then glass them and apply a Boiled Linseed Oil finish. but most of my bows i dont go past 200 or 250 grit before i glass them and oil them, so they shimmer, but they dont shine and attract attention.
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If you guys want a shiny bow, just make a glass bow... :) >:D
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I achieve that finish with about 5 to 6 coats of tru-oil. I personally like a glossy bow for show and use nylon camo limb sleeves to hunt.
Jon
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If you guys want a shiny bow, just make a glass bow... :) >:D
You watch your mouth!!! Lol 8)
Maybe with a chromed bow you can get that 'deer in the headlights' effect? Haha
Would that be considered spot lighting? Haha
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LOL Scott:)