Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Jesse on October 01, 2007, 10:31:45 pm
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Hi guys. I have made hickory bows from stave but this is my first attempt with osage. I have some snakey knotty billets I got from ebay. To me it looks like firewood but after hanging out on here for a while I am sure they will make bows with a lot of straightening. My Questions are. What is the ideal moisture content? Right now it is 9%. cut last winter. One of the sets will be a self bow. One a boo backed bow. on the backed bow would I straighten it first or just cut it flat disregarding the natural shape? There will be plenty more questions later Im sure. looking at this wood I can tell this will be much harder than my boo backed ipe or hickory bows. Which one would you use first? The straight one is saw cut. Thanks.
Jesse
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u169/WIbowyer/P1010534.jpg)(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u169/WIbowyer/P1010533.jpg)(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u169/WIbowyer/P1010532.jpg)
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Hey Jesse: With my limited knowledge - them look purty to me. Can't answer any of your question's but cept for a couple - that looks like some nice sage.
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Looks like pretty good wood to me. ;D What do the rings look like? Osage is very forgiving and if you have made bows with other woods, you shouldn't have a problem unless you get over confident. Take your time, study the wood and ask questions and you will have a good shooter before you know it. This isn't red oak or hickory but if you consider osage's properties and take your time you will come out with the bow you want. Pat
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Looks good to me from what I can see,I would lay out the limbs on 2 pieces and splice,and then worry about straightening it.I ant sure on what to do if you plan to back it but I don't think you have to worry about grain violation if you plan on backing it.Someone will come on and tell you.
Lots of backed bows built here. :)
Pappy
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WIDBOYER, that looks like some nice stuff Lavern sells. He is a cool guy and his descriptions are very accurate. He has a "TON" of Osage that he cuts. I would use the two piece stave's and splice them for the boo backed one. Then get the back smooth and flat, then bond the bamboo to it. Remember if you want reflex/deflex etc you should get the belly down to a point where you can bend it in a form while the glue is setting up. I don't worry about grain violation when using boo to a degree. If the grain is thick on the outer edge I would just flatten it. Also mark out the boo to the widths you want and cut it. Then sand it down so the thickness is not more than 1/8 inch at the crown. I also use Nelsons Urac185 glue because it never gets granite hard. Attached is a photo of a composet boo backed bow with the clamps before putting it in the heat box. Good luck and you will have fun.
Dick
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....certainly not firewood!
frank
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Thanks for your input. I am looking forward to getting started on these. Here is a pic of the end grain. Not sure what I am looking for. Have not yet tried reducing to one ring yet. maybe someone could point out a ring that should be my target?(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u169/WIbowyer/P1010535.jpg)
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............................I would take the one on the extreme right. The second ring down, make that the back, yup thats what I would do...........bob
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Jesse, you got some pretty good lookin osage. I only see one billet that has any major knots, those should be up towards the handle where there will be more wood and not expected to bend so much. 9% moisture is great, here in Missouri we usually have 20% after a couple years of air drying. You want to find the biggest, fattest growth ring you can for the back--unless it means going down half a stave. The pair on the left in you pic have good rings down about 10. Good luck, keep us posted.
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Bob I think I will go with the set on the right for the selfbow thanks. There is not much twist or knots in those. There is a worm hole in one of those so I may have to go a little deeper.
Hrothgar I am not sure on moisture content. My meter does not specify osage in the guide chart. What tools do you use to follow a wavy ring? I am prety good with a draw knife and scraper just not sure on this yet. Like I said hickory is what I have used for selfbow and was perfectly straight. I will be out of town for a little while but I will keep you posted and ask a hundred more questions. Thanks for the quick answers.
Jesse
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.........I liked ones on right but probably fer a different reason. I prefer tight rings ta wide ones. I use a drawknife REALLY sharp, reasonin' on dull ones never made sense ta me. Ta each his own huh ? ;D............bob
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After reading Dean's book twice, I think you can safely assume that larger growth rings are better. Not only for strength, but for ease of minimzing growth ring violations.
When I look at all of your billets, I think you have plenty of potential to hit some thick and stable growth rings halfway down. Then again, I don't know the overall dimensions.
I cannot lie though, I have <1% of the experience with Osage that 99% of the people who normally provide input to the site. Either way, I think the staves look good and you should have tons of fun!
Good Luck!
Joe
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Joe I agree with the easier to chase but not on the strength,I am with bob on that one.I like the tight rings .the wood is more dense and I have better luck with the wood stabilizing and hitting weight.You have to be more careful and it takes little longer to chase but I think it is worth it.
I also use a sharp draw knife. :)
Pappy
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Thanks for the advise. I need it.
Jesse
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P.S. Jesse, if you don't have a rasp you might want to hit a garage sale, it is an important part of your arsenal.
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I can't help with backed bows.I've never done a wooden or bamboo backed bow but that is some mighty fine looking selfbow wood. I like 8% for osage. Jawge
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I think those are the billets I was biddin' on. >:( At least I know who got them. ;D Have fun with them. I was gonna splice some and make take downs.
possum
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I recommend a Nicholson #50 rasp if you start looking for one. They're ~$50 but after using it on my last osage bow I deeply regret not getting one earlier.
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Thanks guys I do have 2 rasps One is a small 4 way and the other is a large feriers rasp.
I started on one billet yesterday and once I got the bark off I found a deep crack down the back and a deep worm hole. I was able to get through both and have enough left for the bow. I think following growth rings is fun I like how you can feel when you hit the light colored part and then it gets smooth again when you are through. I had been intimidated by osage because you need to follow a ring. Now that Ive tried it I love it. Much more fun than making a backed bow so far.I like that no 2 will ever be the exact same. Jesse