Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bowhntineverythingnh03743 on November 04, 2012, 09:46:18 pm
-
Ok PA-
Here is my issue... I was working on a takedown osage flatbow. It is my first takedown and first character bow as well. Why not make it super challenging at the start...Right? So my problem is that the tiller isn't quite perfect the way I want it but right now it is at 35# when I draw it 28 inches. Its been sitting in the corner of my shop and I just can't seem to scrap it. So I figure I would dust it off and try to fix it with another first. Here is my thoughts and where I need some advice.
Right now it is at 62 inches ttt... if I cut it down to 58 inches tip to tip I think that I could peak it a little and still be able to even out the tiller a little. My next thing would to (a first) sinew the back of the bow with two and a half layers of sinew on the working limbs since it has a metal takedown sleeve. I would try to reflex the limbs maybe two inches or so since it sits flat right now with no set... What do you guys think of this plan of attack. Of course I would add pictures and I have everything I need in the shop to sinew this bow. Thanks in advance for your help!!!
Justin
New Hampshire
-
A good plan. That's what I would do. Use hide glue and rough up the back of the bow, let it cure for at least a month, brace it and post pics here before you start pulling on it.
-
Ok Steve so apply the sinewy and let it set... Then I will even out the tiller? Another thing I was looking at it and would really like to align the tips just a little more... Slight slight prop tiller is noticed as well.... What ya say to that?
-
Slight prop I would ignore unless you are going for looks. Some of that prop might go away when you tiller the bow. Where does the string land on the handle right now, near the center? I just finished a vine maple bow that is so prop'd that the string is along side the handle. It shoots great, and fast, except the arrow falls off the tiny shelf as I draw. So I will fix that. If it wasn't for that arrow problem I would leave it.
If you fix that prop then you need to do it before the sinew.
-
If it was me I'd say no guts no glory and pike 2-4" off of it,and bend in short (3-4") sharp static recurves,then induce an inch of reflex in the working limbs with dry heat( don't use oil),then sinew 3 courses on it,then let it set for at least a month to retiller. You should easily get a 50 pound bow if you do everything right.
-
Blackhawk sounds like a good plan but my only concern is lifting splinters with recurves and it already being thinned in the limbs.... Thoughts on it
-
Use a metal strap on the belly to take the tension load when you bend em. And even if you do pull splinters its an easy fix with gluing some thin underlays on. My thinking is if your not gonna give the bow away to a kid or woman,and its just gonna do nothing in a corner,and wanna salvage it then why not roll the dice and gamble and go big.
-
Alright blackhawk I am down for that... Got to come up with some sort of recurve design then and also find a metal strap... What do you normally use as a template for recurves and finding strapping?
-
Either find something with a 4-5" round diameter and trace out the arc of it for at least 90 degrees of it and go with that or use a compass and make your own circle to trace out. Use a piece if scrap paper first and see if its what you like,then make a form. I use a metal shipping 1" wide banding strap I got from work. Some use metal rulers etc....get creative n find something.
-
yep, no gut's no glory >:D, go for it man, Bub
-
Have you thought about adding a belly lam? Osage or ipe would work good and could raise the draw weight quite a bit.
-
Ok slept on it a bit... We are gonna try recurving the tips, sinew back this bow, and throw a slight belly lam on it of osage. Man this thing is gonna either really boost up in weight or blow up because of my lack of skills. We shall see! Making the form for the recurve tips tonight.
-
Have you thought about adding a belly lam? Osage or ipe would work good and could raise the draw weight quite a bit.
How are you going to get the gluing surfaces flat enough for gluing? Especially with a twist?
Sounmds like too much of a pain to me.
If you want a 50lb'er out of this do what Blackhawk suggested. Find a steel fabrication firm near you and just ask them if they have any off-cuts of 1 - 1.5mm stainless 2 inches wide and 12-14 long. Shouldn't cost anything if you find some decent blokes.