Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => English Warbow => Topic started by: fishfinder401 on October 31, 2012, 03:58:03 am
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i did some shooting today since at that point i was out of power and it was nice after the hurricane, so i did some filming of me shooting, please critique my technique if it needs it, i tried modifying it a little recently
thanks
noel
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No link ;)
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Hey fish clean out your PM Box it is full been trying to send you a message for days.
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oh, sorry about both of those things......
here's the link, and ill clean out my box
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nb4HrG5oXmc&lc=UrX4CamGL0t73RPbgIhiPGp1GnnLSEex92xoKrEbHgs&feature=inbox
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That's looking so much smoother and controlled ( I dunno if it's me but the follow through looks to have been toned down a tad too, so it looks more natural).
Nice...
Del
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thanks Del, its also feeling more natural, wish i had tried shooting this way in the beginning ;)
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That's looking so much smoother and controlled ( I dunno if it's me but the follow through looks to have been toned down a tad too, so it looks more natural).
Nice...
Del
i agree with Del, i'm no expert on warbow shooting, but it just look's smooth and has a nice flow with the follow thru as compared to before, Bub
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I have never shot a war bow or even seen anyone shoot a war bow.
Now... I dont know exactly what I am looking at but...
I am a 'movement specialist' so to speak and I see a lot of wasted energy...
I saw others comment on the follow through and that was the first thing I noticed, then
the initial draw.
I have never shot a war bow but efficiency in movement is my speciality...
I don't know what weight you shooting but I bet you can up it, by a hefty margin. Perhaps even your draw length.
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my draw length was actually lengthened by this technique, its now 33.5-34, and yes i would like to up the weight from the 130 that that bow is to about 150, i just need to make the bow, which is hard with only time every few weekends because of college to shoot or work on bows, witht the exception of this weak thanks to the hurricane
as to the follow through, that's something i am working on, and is getting better slowly, so, what do you mean by the initial draw? i would like to be as wefficient as possible, but there is a certain amount of wasted movement i did to make it feel smoother
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The I've never shot a warbow either but I'm really wanting to. As far as the draw was concerned it looked smooth to me, but I don't know about the mechanics of the movement. I'm working on getting the materials together right now to begin one myself however so I was wondering about something. What kind of wood was the bow that you were shooting in the video?
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the bow in the video was hickory, and if you make one from hickory, i have few suggestions based on my experience, make sure its long enough( mostly a problem for me with a 33.5 draw), if you can, heat treat it, it reduces the set taken and improves the performance a little, make sure your tips aren't too large as it is a dense wood and the extra weight on the tips takes away from it, and last and most important, make sure to keep it away from excessive moisture/make sure its sealed very well. mine took allot fo set on one very warm and humid day( with some rain showers) and apparently some of coating had come off
if you have any other questions about making warbows just ask, ill try to help, but there are many more experienced bowyers on here who definitely could ;)
-noel
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Hey Noel, thanks for the tips! I do have some nice hickory seasoning right now as a matter of fact, that I was thinking of using. I usually seal mine with 3-4 coats of spar urethane. Do you think that would do the trick? I also have ash and elm, that could work. They are board staves and seasoned all ready but I think the ask will have to be backed to survive the strain, judging by the side grain of the board. When I start my first warbow, I'm sure I'll be asking for lots of help. Thanks!
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as far as i know that should be enough of a coating, the reason i ran into problems is i was using beeswax and some had come off due to ear and needed to be recoated