Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: armymedic.2 on October 10, 2012, 02:58:24 pm
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i must be going about this wrong, because it is giving me fits and im not sure why.
i am wanting to split some 2 inch wide pieces out of these staves so they dry a bit quicker, and the edges of the bow follow the grain. so far, no success! I have attempted two of the staves, i start a split on a side, but within a foot or two the split runs off the edge of the big stave, then ill try the other side two inches away from first split and the same issue occurs out the other side. seems like it should be pretty straight forward but i ain't getting it. not sure why it is splitting out the side. i know the grain is relatively straight, after all i made parrallel splits to make these staves.
please help me see what im missing. or should i just debark, centerline it, and cut on bandsaw following the curves if i find them?
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I'd use the bandsaw. Hickory can take such great violation - why not?
I'm not an expert with hickory staves though, I've just done board bows with hickory. The early ones had tremendous violations and still shoot!
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or should i just debark, centerline it, and cut on bandsaw following the curves if i find them?
Yup.
(Not sure what all the other fuzz was all about you typed :P)
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Hahaha. Damn. Shouldnt have gotten so frustrated then! Lol
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HHB, elm and hickory can be sawn out if they are fairly straight to begin with. Do your best to follow the grain when you saw them.
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No Expert. Ive only done it twice with large diameter (relative term) vine maple but my guess is youre driving your wedge to deep before you've established where you want it to split so its taking its own path. I would mark the line you want to split along and start the split along that line without driving the hatchet's wedge all the way in. Basically cut as deep as you can without it separating the two halves or quarters. If you drive the wedge all the way in then it will start taking its own path. Then, once you have split 100% of the line, you can go back and start driving your wedges and hatchet further in and it will split along the line you made. You have to take your time and realize that wood wont split in a straight line even if the wood is straight. You have to make the line yourself.
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I have started the split in the center of a small piece before. I started the hatchet and then used wedges out to the ends. I've only done this on osage and HHB, not hickory.
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Splitting isn't a precision method. You don't cut the top off a boiled egg with an axe.
Once you've got a 1/4 log or a big fat stave it's bandsaw, axe or drawknife, trying to split further and finer is just asking for trouble.
There is a right stage for every tool.
Once the draw knife starts digging in and taking off too much, it's the spokeshave, then if that snags, it's the rasp, then it's final finishing with an axe and wedges >:D whoops no I mean scraper and sand paper.
Sorrying if I'm stating the obvious.
Del
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Splitting to 2 inches is risky business , I usually go for 3 , trying to get to greedy With the number of Staves might leave you with nothing...imho it's better to clean up the access once its cured I have had some checking , and some warping on hickory so now I leave it to touch wide ;) patience
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Del said it pretty good, as he usually does. Even if it is with a british accent. >:D
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alright lads, well said indeed. I am now seeing that the bandsaw i bought while deployed will come in great handy....finally! i believe the wife was starting to question the wisdom of a $1200 paperweight :} the rasp and scraper i am very familiar with, it will be like saying hello to old friends.
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I split down the middle. Then in half again. End splits are risky. I don't own a bow grade bandsaw. If you go with the bandsaw do follow the lateral grain when laying out the bow. Jawge
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Del said it pretty good, as he usually does. Even if it is with a british accent. >:D
I say, steady on old chap, you'll make be blush ;)
Del
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When trying to split out 3" and narrower I start with 2 sharp hand axes and then went to using smaller cold chisels instead of my large log splitting wedges. I seem to get better control making careful alignment with my original axe placement on the end of the stave.
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Ok fred. I have some chisels to try on the next one then. Good tip.
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Just remember to follow what was mentioned earlier about not trying to split clear through until your split line is established. That's another reason I keep 2 sharp axes available. If your split starts leaning, you can reestablish to your pencil mark with a good tap on your axe from the split to where you want to take it.
I've been talking to Eric Bartels (rockcityusa) on Ebay and invited him to check out Primitive Archer. I get most all of my osage from him or his dad because I can't find any close to home to cut. I'm going to have to pick his brain and find out his method because he and Lavern have some of the cleanest split wood I've ever gotten.
Eric mentioned he'd like to try his hand at making a selfbow and I told him he'd get much better directions here than he could from me.