Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: mspink on October 07, 2012, 09:47:28 pm
-
Hey guys what do you use to write on your bows with. I have been using ink that smears. Was wondering what looks sharp and last a long time? Where can I get it?? Thanks guys.
-
Ms Pink, I have had that problem for years. I tried nearly every brand of marker and fine line ink pen on the market and was never happy. Seems every finish in the world works to dissolve ink. I finally won the battle by going to spray shellac as a finish. It, too, dissolves the ink. But since I am not wiping it on, it doesn't smear.
I am now using ultra fine tip architect's markers with solid black pigments found in India ink. Dye type inks fade in sunlight.
Haven't seen much of you around lately, was afraid maybe you were sent over to the sandbox. Good to see you.
-
I'm glad I read this. I just decorated a bow with a micron pen straight onto the rawhide backing. I haven't finished it with anything yet. Are you saying if I spread tru-oil over the drawing it will mess it up? :-\
-
i have been using a calligraphy pen and it works good just let it dry,plus you can get different color refills.
-
Hey thanks guys. An jw I have been busy. But no deployment! Just tdy' s. I have been making though! Made four today. But I have used a pen that was great if you let it dry but of course I don't know what kind! ::). Anyway. Can't find it anywhere.
-
I use Tru-Oil finishes and use a lettering point dipped in India Ink. I do the writing prior to applying the last two or three coats of oil. Be sure to let the ink dry thoroughly oiling over it, and be gentle with that first oil overcoat.
That is the method used by Gilman Keasey and his lettering is still sharp and unfaded on the 1936 bow of his I own.
Bill
-
Well, its hard to argue with the results Billn mentions but here is how i do it...
I go two ways, first is pencil. I write on there then burn it in with a soldering iron.
Second is I sand the wood smooth then write in fine point sharpie. then seal over it with a thin coat of superglue after the ink has dried. Careful or the glue will smear the ink. After that has dried, you are good to put whatever you want over it.
Dont discount charcoal or pencil though. As a portrait and landscape artist, I often deal with these medium. Once done, I will take hair spray over the work to set the graphite or charcoal in. After that it can be handled without smudging. Perhaps the same concept but use something other than hairspray, like a watertight adhesive, I seem to recall buying some in a spray can for sealing wood at Walmart.
-
I second the calligraphy pen.
-
I just use a fine point sharpie, let it dry good then go light with the first coat of TruOil. After the first no worries. :)
Pappy
-
Spray Polly over a Sharpie. No worries.
-
I use a wood burner to actually mark into the wood. It was like 30 bucks at sears and works great.
-
This topic comes up a lot.
White archival calligraphy ink and an extra fine tip pen. One bottle of ink is a lifetime supply.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/penandink.jpg)
Hard to beat the results, the lettering stands out more the darker the osage gets. I put a couple coats of tru-oil over the lettering to keep it from wearing off.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/caligraphywriting.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/davidsdarkbow.jpg)
-
> I just use a fine point sharpie, let it dry good then go light with the first coat of TruOil. After the first no worries.
The only problem is those "permanent marker" Sharpies are not permanent under sunlight. They will ultimately fade, maybe not for 5 or 10 years, but I want my lettering to last as long as the bow. I used some on my gardening labels this year and they are all faded pretty badly even after 3 months of partial sunlight. I just looked at one of the pens, nowhere does it state that the lettering will be fade resistant, only that it is permanent.
I found an outdoor gardening felt tip pen that is supposed to be fade resistant. I labeled some large flower pots with it a couple of weeks ago. I will see how they look after a year.
Bill
-
Boy I like that idea Eric!!
Scott
-
I use a Sharpie brand fine point paint pen. I let it dry for a few minutes and then start putting on the tru-oil. No smears at all. I like Eric's white lettering. Might have to give that a try.
-
Pen-tel has a white gel pen that is supposed to be permanent and fade proof. Sharpie claims the same is true of their metallic markers.
Bill
-
i have been using a calligraphy pen and it works good just let it dry,plus you can get different color refills.
I just got one ... going to give it a shot. One thing I have noticed is waiting until I have a coat or two of finish dry on the bow before I apply ink. I usually use Truoil for the first few coats and let it dry. Then I use Spar Satin (spray) over the ink in a couple of very light applications to seal the lettering. If you get it to wet it makes the ink run. Let those applications dry and then you can spray as many applications as you think you need.
-
The white ink I use is acrylic, water based, after it dries it is unaffected by any type of finish and won't run or smear.
-
The white ink I use is acrylic, water based, after it dries it is unaffected by any type of finish and won't run or smear.
That make the most sense I've heard.... Eric is your acrylic applied in marker form or with a calligraphy pen???
-
The picture on page one of this thread shows my pen and well used bottle of Speedball ink.
One thing about this type of ink, the pigment really settles to the bottom of the bottle and takes a lot of stirring to be ready to use, just like an old can of paint.
-
Thank Eric,,, I've got to quit speed reading threads :-[
-
I use a black CD writer pen. Very convenient and doesn't run with the water based varnish I'm using.
No matter what pen you end up using, always do a test run on a scrap piece of wood. Check if the finishe wipes off the pen, or if the ink takes too long to dry.