Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => HowTo's and Build-a-longs => Topic started by: Fred Arnold on September 30, 2012, 10:29:40 am
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I'm posting this topic on a few of the traditional archery sites trying to find a simple but effective design.
I've got a nice stash of matching billets in different woods dried and want to start building take down bows. Problem is the cost of sleeves available on the market. Do any of you have a good design or link available for making my own?
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I have come up with a few good ways to do this but I recently saw a video series on youtube of a guy who makes his sleaves out of carbon and fiberglass cloth might want to check that out looks like it would work great and over a rattle free fit. Other wise the only way I have ever been able to make a rattle free take down sleeve was witht he use of a metal lathe If you have one of them then I can tell you more.
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Fred,
Unless there's a compelling reason to make a takedown, I'd splice those babies. My takedown spends 99.9% of its time together as a regular bow. If I did remote hunts and was travelling a lot it'd be different. In truth, there's enough corrosion on the inside of the takedown sleeve that I end up messing with it every time I want to take it apart. I think if I were doing it again I'd make a 3-piece. But, to each his own. I don't know of a cheap way to do a 2-piece takedown. I always figured the price of the sleeve was the price of admission. :)
Good luck,
George
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George, you got me on that one. It was the price of admission that brought about this thread.
But to be honest with you, I'm infatuated with 2 pc takedown bows. I detest 3 pc T/D's. Call it whatever you like but the 3 pc looks like a wheelie to me.
I know, it's all in my mind. I'm getting old and somewhat senile. Even my kids keep telling me to lighten up.
So I'll lighten up, but no 3 pcs.
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I understand, having an infatuation or two myself. I'd love to see a better mousetrap kind of takedown design so go for it. And, as always, post pictures when you build it. :)
George
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fred do a search, i think madcrow did a buila-a-long with fiberglass cloth and 2 part epoxie, but he uses a standard bow and cut's it in two, it's a good build, Bub
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All of the fiberglass T/D instructions I've seen refer to splitting a bow that is already finished. I'm trying to figure out a way to utilize billets that haven't been assembled. Possibly I could make a jig to align the sections and form the handle area, then proceed with butting them together.
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Your not the only one thinking about a two piece takedown bow I think I'm going to try to build a hinged two piece you mite look into the hinge style bows they have been made for 100s of years there was a nice write up in last months issue and had some nice pics of a brass hinge with a cool internal latch
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Fred I ran across these pictures the other day.
He made a scarf cut (looks like the longer the scarf the more strength). He wrapped the handle with rawhide, then wrapped it with cord to hold it in place allowed it to dry overnight. Then drilled and put a removable pin through the handle...... It still was a one piece cut in half but kind of a cool idea :)
red oak 54 lb @ 31" 65.5 ntn non bending handle.... He say he uses a pen to push tthe pin out to disasemble....
I have no idea how durable it will be????
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/coaster500/P4120023.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/coaster500/P4120019.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/coaster500/P4120022.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/coaster500/P4120020.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/coaster500/P4120021.jpg)
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Kip,
I've seen similar to that design and it seems as though it holds. That may be the first type of sleeve I try. Just need to make sure I get the billets cut properly after getting them close to the bows outline.
It seems that most of the tillering work would need to be done after the splice is made although both billets could probably be given some floor tiller.
Fred