Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DQ on July 14, 2012, 10:51:46 am
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of tillering reflex-deflex bows. Suddenly my gismo isn't working and I need to relie on knowledge and skill...two things I'm short on. This bow is 64" ntn, bamboo backed hickory. Nice unstrung profile, but where do I go from here to get it to bend? Thanks for your help. Darryl
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Gotta get the mids moving Darryll. Be careful and go slow because they "flop" over in a flash and you can easily get a very light bow.
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What pearl said. Those middle limbs need to bend early. Its better to start from the tips and tiller to the handle. Like pestle said, when they flop its easy to drop a bunch of weight so exercise early and often. Good luck!
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Yup...i agree with mids needing some more scrapin. And a shorter long string. Yeah,the gizmo dont work with this design...its all done with your eyes....i love this design,but with more curves to start out with...cus some of that will pull out from set. But a milder recipe for your first is good to get into this design. Then the next one you can go more. Just go slow.
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Thanks guys. I'm scrapin on it and I think it's starting to turn over. Also, shortened my long string as per blackhawk. PEARL, I sent you a pm.
Scrape 5, pull 25. Scrape 5, pull 25. Scrape 5, pull 25. etc.
Darryl
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Your patience will be rewarded with a hunting weight r/d bow.
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Important to keep in mind the shape of the bow unstrung so you tiller to an even stress rather than even bend. RD tillering does my head in! Very different from a straight or reflexed bow. Working on one section causes weird effects elsewhere. When tillered the mid limb will look straighter than you're used to.
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Before you go any further use a pencil to trace the un-strung profile onto the wall behind. Use this as a reference for where set has occured. Remember you want no set inner limb, a little mid limb and the rest towards the tips. Tillering by using the set as a guide is under rated in my opion!
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Once you get the midlimbs to bend a little more, I usually scrape away at the sides of the belly at a 45 degree angle to adjust the weight. I have found that this works well with the reflex/deflex designs and adds great contrast to the belly when using different woods. Anybody else try this method?
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Okay boys, here she is at 6 3/4" brace, and drawn about 20" or so. I'm aiming for 55# @ 28" and right now she is 55# @ 21". I have weight to work with and tip width to work with. Any suggestions?
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Doesn't look bad at all! That right midlimb could use a bit more bend, though. That probably means the left limb needs some full length scraping, to match the right limb after correction. Is that right limb longer, or is it an optical illusion?
I'm kinda wondering why you backed hickory with bamboo. Hickory is outstanding as a backing by itself. Was the grain too poor to function as a selfbow?
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Yes, the right (upper) limb is longer, Torges style. I'm new at bamboo backing... first one blew up. The hickory has a little run-out of the grain, but not too bad. I guess I used it because I had it on hand. Should I have used something else?
I'll get the upper limb bending a little bit more. The tiller measures about even right now anyway. Thanks for your input.
Darryl
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Looking real close....i agree with dark soul.....your close to flinging some arrows :)
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This bow is now shootin'. I learned a couple of things too. Blackhawk was right, should have started out with more reflex. It shot in with the tips even with the grip after resting. Has more deflex now than reflex. >:( Also, I think I'll wait until winter when the humidity is lower, before messing around with more hickory. Anyway, it shoots without hand shock, spits out a pretty good arrow, is light in the hand and nicely balanced to carry. Came out 60# at 28", just right for a hunting bow. Tillering it was good experience. I'm going to shoot it some more before finishing it up.
Thanks for your input guys. Darryl