Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Ifrit617 on May 03, 2012, 11:56:15 am
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Hey Everyone,
I think I posted this when the server was down and that is why it is no longer showing up.. So I'll post it again... I am wondering how to layout the belly taper on a reflexed stave.. I want to taper from 5/8" at the handle to 1/2" at the tips as a starting point... I ruined most of the bows I made last summer by rushing this step and which eventually led to compression failures.. Does anybody have any tips to laying out a smooth intial belly taper? How do you all do it? Tips or tricks would be great.. Thanks.
Jon
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I replied and it was lost as well. I highly suggest a straight 5/8" taper. You will notice most well tillered bows have VERY little taper to them.
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Ok PD, That might be what I'll do.. I like your compass trick, it seems to work out well..
Thanks.
Jon
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If you start parallel its dang hard to create a hinge. I cant remember the last time I seen one on any of my bows.
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I build bendy handle bows mostly and have had a couple bend to much in the handle... That is why I am nervous about making it straight.... Maybe I will leave the handle a full 3/4 inch thick and "fade" to 5/8" then keep the belly straight from there... I assume this will help me avoid having to much bend at the handle early on and will allow me to get it bending evenly later on in the process...
Does this sound good?
Jon
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When I build bendy bows I leave about 3/8" x 4" long center area with 1" fades that will be my handle section. I tiller the bow as normal and then tweek the handle thickness until it gives some at 24-25" of draw. The confusion comes in when we call parallel slat bows bendy bows. Bendy bows are only a pinch from being flat bows. Your basically rasping the handle down until it starts to move.
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What do you mean by parallel slat bows? When I say bendy handle bows I personally mean a NA style bow that bends evenly its entire length.... Such as the bows half eye builds.. I still think I will do what I said in my above post then reduce that slightly thicker handle section once long string tillering is complete..
Anybody else have any input?
Jon
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Slat bows are equal thickness bows that bend there entire length as you described. They require very little tillering. A working handle bow is as I described above. Thats what I was explaining all along. We must have crossed wires. Sorry
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No problem... Do you think that a regular thickness would still work to start the tillering of a "slat" bow?
Thanks.
Jon
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The Good Friday bow I just posted is a working handle bow. Rich's bows are slat bows. At least thats how I describe them due there uniform thickness. I wouldnt want a slat bow to be anything but parallel when I start. You will basically do nothing more than reduce weight and keep a circular tiller. The tiller should be close right off, maybe a touch stiff at the tips.
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Jon,
I think if you are making a bow with a narrowed handle go with your plan. If the bow is a full width do as PD says. That's how I do mine anyway. Hope that helps.
Jon W.
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PEARL DRUMS right when you tiller your bow. The limb (side taper) takes care this I've tryed to taper limbs like this and you can but very little. I see no beifit in doing this.